MemphisMechanic

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About MemphisMechanic

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    Memphis, TN
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    Evan

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  1. PHRASING!
  2. With the .140 I see some slide in the notch if the front post is even slightly elevated. It barely disappears. A .120 might show in the notch with a proper sight picture
  3. The .140 tall is the ticket IMO. I still have a good bit of "down" travel left, but it keeps the rear sight nice and low. I believe I only needed 6-10 clicks of adjustment to zero the gun after installing the .140 front. In a theoretical sense center of travel is perfect. But that back sight is fragile. Anything that'll help it hold up (like more thread engagement and spring pressure against the detents) is a good thing in my book.
  4. This is normal, just so you're aware. First you learned to tell if the shot went true or if you shanked it into the rough. But you had no idea where a bad shot landed. Then you learn to tell which direction your shot was thrown off-center, but not really how far. This is where you're currently at. Over time the "I know it went somewhere in here!" circle that you could walk downrange and draw on the target? It will shrink to a smaller and smaller diameter. I can currently call most of my shots within the accuracy of a 4" circle, I would estimate. However that still leaves a lot of "was that a C or a D?" wiggle room and I'm working to improve it. Try something: intentionally misalign the sights (front post touching left side of notch, etc) and shoot the gun with a meticulously perfect trigger press. Do this at various distances to see how far up/down/left/right the bullet actually goes. I routinely have new shooters do that at 7 yards. At that distance you cannot miss the A zone with a sight picture involving the fiber *anywhere* in the front notch. It's part of learning that your trigger finger, grip, and flinching make you miss - not a failure to focus on the front sight. Until you learn what kind of misalginment leads to a hit in the D or C at 12 yards, you don't have any kind of reference to use when calling your shots.
  5. At USPSA matches every single serious competitior I've seen with a gun setup for CO either has no irons on the gun, or they have a front post only. If you plan to use the gun outside of cardboard punching, that's going to be different. But we're talking about gaming guns here.
  6. Weigh a large random sample of every bullet brand you load before shooting a major with them. For instance, the 150gr SWC from Bayou consistently weighs 147-147.5 grains.
  7. Jacketed? good. Coated? good. Plated? (Berry's, Ranier, Xtreme) garbage.
  8. Interesting. I bought my 650 in 2008 as well, and broke my first indexing ring this January. My round count overall is much lower though - probably between 50 and 75k. Did the same thing you did: detail stripped and cleaned the press.
  9. Figured. Novices do that, and it actually takes them longer to plan. 1. Locate all the targets. No no - ALL the targets. Walk around behind the stage looking for sneaky hidden ones, and locate all the targets which are either available from multiple places or which require shooing from exactly one spot. 2. Figure out a clean simple path through the stage where you shoot them all from as close as you can get to them. You're new. Go with simple plans over complicated ones (that require things like long shots on the move). If you're up first? Pick a plan you can memorize quickly and execute perfectly 10 times in 10. 3. Figure out the order to shoot the targets in each position. While going through the stage for this step, begin to think about your footwork. 4. A quick look at how many shots are required in each location will tell you where your reloads need to go. It's also a good idea to know how many spare rounds you'll have available for makeup shots throughout the course. So you plan by going through the stage in layers.
  10. Oh. So it's more likely an "age of gun" thing.
  11. I didn't know the S2 was solid inside the back of the magwell. The stock 3 looks like the Limited Pro does. Lightened. No wonder you S2 owners think the Stock 3 is muzzle heavy. It's longer, has that chunky rail, and is lightened in the back.
  12. Swap your factory strut into the Titan. And polish both of them up nicely.
  13. (Quote feature mucking up. Replying to it below) Ben Stoeger stopped all of us Production guys on Day 1 of his advanced class. "What are you doing? Planning loads first? Stop that. Reloads go last - they take care of themselves." Sounded crazy since everyone has done the opposite in front of me for my entire USPSA journey. But try it. You don't get points for reloads - you get points for efficient target engagement. Figure out what order you want to shoot the targets in, then it's easy to insert your loads where they're needed.
  14. That could be the case, TDA. My 650 works phenomenally with coated bullets in 9mm. I run a Lee sizing die with the hardened aftermarket recapping pin. Dillon Flaring, then powder check in stations 2 & 3. Dillon seating die in 4. Lee Factory Crimp die (FCD) in the final station. After experimenting with various combinations of Lee, Dillon, and Redding? This is my favorite for 124-150gr coated bullets in 9mm.