occasional light strikes help

[jimbullet]

I've got a 2011 Bul radical 5.4 in 40 S&W and it has one of those hammers without a spur so it is flush on the slide at rest.

 

I'm getting the occasional light strike. Not too many but its once in at least each stage which is annoying.

 

It already has an extended firing pin and hammer spring is factory, not even 500 rounds through this one. I was told to consider cutting 2-3 coils from the firing pin spring should solve it and was told that the firing pin spring might be too stiff.

 

I'm looking for thoughts on this as it was the first time I've heard of this solution.

 

Would appreciate any inputs if this is good advice or bad advice? Firing pin springs dont appear to have any options unlike main springs where there options on different pounds. Im thinking not to change the main spring as this is unlikely worn out given that this came from factory and as mentioned, its only been less than 500 rounds through it.

[Sarge]

Reloads? Check for high primers

[raz-0]

The firing pin spring is a safety mechanism, so I’d not be inclined to mess with it if possible. 
 

As previously noted, the first thing I’d look at is the ammo. If you have pics of ammo it would be useful to diagnose. 
 

I terms of things you can mess with, there’s always an extended hammer strut if you don’t already have one. 

[jim vaughan]

Hi,

Do a simple firing pin strength test. Take a virgin pencil with the base cut off.

Insert it into the barrel and see how high the pencil flies out of the vertical barrel when the trigger falls. 2-3 ft is the norm.

If less replace hardware accordingly. Also remove the mainspring cap retaining pin. Jim

[ddc]

1 hour ago, jim vaughan said:

Hi,

Do a simple firing pin strength test. Take a virgin pencil with the base cut off.

Insert it into the barrel and see how high the pencil flies out of the vertical barrel when the trigger falls. 2-3 ft is the norm.

If less replace hardware accordingly. Also remove the mainspring cap retaining pin. Jim

 

Why would you remove the mainspring cap retaining pin?

[392heminut]

23 minutes ago, ddc said:

 

Why would you remove the mainspring cap retaining pin?

That's a good question! I was a Police dept. armorer and firearms instructor for 14 years and have been 'smithing the 1911/2011 platform for 40 years. I have NEVER heard of anyone doing this! It definitely wouldn't have any effect on a light primer strike problem. When assembled, the mainspring cap is slightly compressed and doesn't even sit against the retaining pin.

[rishii]

Back when titanium hammers were a thing, I ran a stock colt firing pin spring to prevent light strikes 

one thing I would check, with the slide off, hammer down, does the hammer rest firmly against the frame or does it flop back and forth. If it flops repeat with the slide on, is it hard against the slide stop or can you wiggle it with your fingernail

if you can wiggle it, your hammer strut maybe too short

[shred]

Also check the hammer strut and inside of the grip safety for any rubbing.  A little drag there and things get frustrating.  You can usually feel when the strut is hitting the GS by a little 'tick' in the palm of your hand when you dry fire.

 

[jimbullet]

These are some of the fired brass. I can’t tell if it’s just ok or not

 

Rishi, I’ve also checked the hammer at rest is firmly on the slide and there is not movement  

[shred]

Those mostly look ok, although the unfired ones would be more useful for diagnostics.  Do they go off again if loaded back into the mag or if the hammer is recocked & fired?

 

 

[jimbullet]

These are my ammo. From the looks they seem fine. 
 

im now wondering if I should be changing the main spring but I would have thought factory springs were supposed to be strong. 

[xrayfk05]

Without knowing the primer brand it's hard to say anything, but some strikes seem pretty marginal.

Any new (to me) 2011 I buy get's a new #19 hammer spring so I know it will light off everything I throw at it.

(And than it still does not ignite some hard rifle primers)

 

Factory spring on racy guns usually are not that strong, strong enough but no more.

 

-edit-

That is for Small primers, large primers do not seem to need as hard a spring and #15 will be more than enough.

Edited February 12 by xrayfk05

[shred]

Those are the ones that didn't fire, or new ammo?  There's no way to see how well the primers are seated from that angle-- run your finger across the base of the round and if they aren't completely flush or you don't feel a small indent (better), they aren't seated enough.  Compare to a factory round if you have some around.

 

We need to see the ones that didn't work to try and figure out why they didn't work.

 

 

[jimbullet]

Sorry my bad. The ones that didn’t work I fed it back into the gun and it fired so I don’t have them anymore. But they did have a small simple on them at first. 
 

primers are cci small pistol. 

[shred]

Well, that's some information.  If they all went bang the second time I'd start by looking at the primer seating depth, then move to possible sources of firing pin or hammer drag.

[jimbullet]

3 hours ago, jim vaughan said:

Hi,

Do a simple firing pin strength test. Take a virgin pencil with the base cut off.

Insert it into the barrel and see how high the pencil flies out of the vertical barrel when the trigger falls. 2-3 ft is the norm.

If less replace hardware accordingly. Also remove the mainspring cap retaining pin. Jim

Do you do the pencil test straight up vertically? If yes, the pencil launches only by 1 foot. A full length new pencil just barely cleared the barrel when launched. The rubber was the one facing the firing pin strike. So does that mean it's too weak? 

[MikeyScuba]

Are you wet tumbling?

[jimbullet]

11 minutes ago, MikeyScuba said:

Are you wet tumbling?

No I don’t 

[MadBomber]

Sounds like you need to get a stronger main spring.

[Guy Neill]

Essentially, the only time a primer will fire on a second firing pin strike is that the primer was not completely seated on the first attempt.

 

Completely seated, primers are commonly 0.003" - 0.005" below flush with the case.

 

Have you tried any factory ammunition. If so, how did it perform?

 

 

[jimbullet]

1 minute ago, Guy Neill said:

Essentially, the only time a primer will fire on a second firing pin strike is that the primer was not completely seated on the first attempt.

 

Completely seated, primers are commonly 0.003" - 0.005" below flush with the case.

 

Have you tried any factory ammunition. If so, how did it perform?

 

 

I haven’t but I’m going to get some to try. What’s confusing is my reloads have always been reliable for my other 2011 sti which is why I was thinking of ruling out ammo issue but I’ll try some factory just to see. 

[Guy Neill]

I expect the factory will fire fine. As stated, firing on a second strike has been due to primers not completely seated. Completely seated defined as the primer anvil legs being against the bottom of the primer pocket.

 

What loading press are you using?

 

 

[jimbullet]

31 minutes ago, Guy Neill said:

I expect the factory will fire fine. As stated, firing on a second strike has been due to primers not completely seated. Completely seated defined as the primer anvil legs being against the bottom of the primer pocket.

 

What loading press are you using?

 

 

Dillon SDB 

[748r_bb155]

Check the Hole in the firing stop plate for burrs. 
 

[CHA-LEE]

From what you have described it sounds like more of a High Primer situation than anything. If the Primers are flush or protruding above the brass at all they are not seated deep enough. When the primers are seated to the proper depth they should be recessed a little bit vs the top of the brass.

 

High primers can also cause the slide to not fully lock up in the full forward position because the extractor hook depth is fighting against the brass rim because the primer is pinching against the breach face instead of the bottom of the brass. If the slide is unlocked even a little bit the hammer will fall against the bottom edge of the firing pin stop instead of the firing pin.

 

Taking coils off of the firing pin spring to make it "Softer" is not a good solution for a 1911/2011 style pistol. Doing that will allow the firing pin to plunge forward as the slide snaps forward and actually cause a light strike scenario. This is due to the head of the firing pin still being forward or just returning from plunging forward when the hammer falls. This is usually only exposed during aggressive rage blasting pace shooting, but it can happen.

 

Eliminate the basic mechanics of it by taking the slide off the gun, remove the firing pin, remove the spring from the firing pin, then test fit the firing pin in the slide. The tip should easily pass through the hole in the breach face without any friction or resistance. Repeat the same process with the Firing Pin Stop vs the head of the firing pin.