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Guy Neill

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Everything posted by Guy Neill

  1. With regard to ambi thumb safeties, it's mostly what lever/paddle size and shape you like, and what method of joining the two sides. The EGW mentioned used an extended sear pin to keep the two sides together, as I recall. Others may use the original Swenson method of the through pin joining in the middle with a tongue in groove sort of arrangement. Some say the tongue in groove is prone to breakage, but I have never seen it, though I expect it has happened. Regarding the front sight. I believe the only way to really "fix" the two holes is to weld them, then proceed w
  2. Look at the inside of the slide where the sight is mounted. If there are two holes, replacement will be difficult as those are no longer made. If there is a single staking hole, then replacement is to find a suitable tenon sight to replace it. I think Series 70's had the narrow tenon. The two hole mounting was to provide greater strength. Alternate is to have a dovetail milled into the slide to take one of the various dovetail type sights. Will you be changing the rear sight as well? The problem with larger front sights (larger than teh factory) is that
  3. Just thinking out loud, but the primer does not look as if it saw extreme pressure. Also, the rupture extends beyond the extractor groove, suggesting an out of battery firing. With the number of rounds fired prior to this one, there could have been some debris that prevented the slide from going fully into battery. With the light springs commonly used in Open guns, it may have allowed the slide to be far enough to allow the disconnector to move, but not fully into lock-up.
  4. Just reporting what the CCI techs told me a while back. Whatever the black pits are, they will erode a chamber if the case ruptures.
  5. The Redding T7 drops the primers through the ram, exiting a tube to channel them where you want. The new RCBS Rebel press also drops them through the ram.
  6. I believe Wilson has dropped the 38 Super. Nighthawk may be a consideration as well. Or, perhaps, shops like Cylinder & Slide or similar.
  7. Take a look at some of them and see if you see any tiny black dots on the case wall. Each black dot is a corrosion pit. They are very small. Aluminum corrosion is nothing like brass corrosion. Aluminum cases that crack with the crack being a straight line are due to scratches. Cracks that are jagged are a connect the dots where the crack propagated from corrosion pit to corrosion pit. Both will commonly damage the chamber of the gun.
  8. While small rifle and small pistol primers have the same dimensions, the large pistol and large rifle differ. Large rifle primers are taller than large pistol.
  9. Most, if not all, CCI Blazer aluminum cases are now Boxer primed. The main reason not to reload aluminum cases is that resizing scrapes through the protective coatings, exposing the bare aluminum to corrosion. Aluminum corrosion takes the form of pits into the metal, The coatings are to protect from corrosion and provide lubricity. Firing a corroded aluminum case has a great chance of eroding the chamber.
  10. If you have a gauge, or using your barrel, see how well some of them drop in as an assessment. Many like to resize even new cases - especially with progressive loaders, but it may not be needed . It's likely more common to size new rifle cases than handgun to true the neck. Chamfering the ID helps prevent the cases from sticking on the expander. which can sometimes leave slivers of brass if the corner is pinched off by the expander.
  11. You may want to tumble them a bit to add dust to help in the sizer, if you will size them before loading. Also, chamfer the ID of the case mouth.
  12. Running some numbers for a 45 Auto With a charge weight making 170 PF with a 200gr bullet gives a recoil of 5.2 ft-lbs. Changing to a 185gr bullet with the same powder charge changes the recoil to 4.1 ft-lbs. Velocity went down for the lighter bullet at the given powder charge.
  13. Hmm - a container. I've used zipper bags - like a bank bag. I've seen such at Walmart. Either Walmart or an office supply should have utility boxes of various sizes that may serve.
  14. Generally, any tools required to field strip the gun. Rags to wipe it down and oil So, if any Allen wrenches are needed, include them. A bushing wrench, if needed. Paper clips if a one piece full length spring guide needing to capture the recoil spring for field stripping. Whatever wrench/screwdriver to tighten grip screws or adjust sights. If you have any anticipation of removing the firing pin, a punch or small screwdriver for that. A cleaning kit That should cover most needs.
  15. For a 1911, I've broken; Bushing Full length recoil spring guide Sights (front, rear and optic) thumb safety Had a plunger tube pull out of the frame Bent firing pin Extractor Recoil spring plug Slide stop Barrel That I recall at the moment. My dry fire gun has a broken firing pin stop. The best procedure is to have a backup gun. Then you can explore the problem at greater leisure for the gun that broke.
  16. If you think the maximum loads are conservative, point the finger at SAAMI. All the reloading manuals I've worked on had the maximum loads at the SAAMI Maximum Average Pressure.
  17. Try a small batch first and evaluate after shooting. Were the loads worked up at the present OAL? Jacketed or plated bullets? Plated are generally more forgiving. If the bullets are presently contacting the rifling, giving them some distance off the rifling will likely be beneficial.
  18. I suppose clues were there even if I don't pay much attention to dates. Never thought guns and ammunition were joking matters. Not that there cannot be humor. Ask me sometime about the fellow that called to complain that the primers he bought had no bottoms.
  19. Technically, I believe the frame ramp angle is a bit different on the 38 Super than the 45, but I'm not certain how critical it is. Kuhnhausen may have details. (How have you been?)
  20. Colt first offered 1911s in 38 Super in 1929. Ramped 1911 barrels didn't become a "thing" until something like the mid to late 1980s.
  21. The primers are cratering. A sign of high pressure. That they are doing it in the new barrel and, I'm assuming, not in the old barrel indicates the new barrel may have a tighter chamber or shorter throat.
  22. Sounds like you need a thumb shield. Pachmayr used to have one, and Swenson offered a thumb safety that had a shield integral. I don't know what is currently available, but I think that would work better than new grips.
  23. The full length sizing will take care of the neck sizing. Generally no crimp on rifle ammunition. If you are seeing bullet movement, crimp may be used, but not commonly needed.
  24. 1. Depends on the quantity you are loading and the time you have. 2. Only if you are loading great quantities. Plus carbide dies are currently hard to get (along with many other things) 3. If loading for semi-autos, stay with full length, maybe even small base sizing. 4. Most makers are providing serviceable dies. Take your pick. I've never used Forster dies, but hear good things. Redding and RCNS are very good, alklong with Lyman and Hornady
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