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Guy Neill

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About Guy Neill

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  • Birthday 09/04/1951

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  1. What does distance of 1.00 mean? Distance to the start screen? Distance between screens? Or something else? That BP looks way out of whack! When/if possible, you may want to try the loads at a warmer temperature as well. Thanks. Guy
  2. Defibnitely try the other bullet(s). Everyone has their own preference for what "feels" best to them. Lighter bullets tend to give a "snappier" recoil than heavy bullets for a given power factor.
  3. Except it's not likely a gun with a disabled slide stop will be run dry every stage whereas unload and show clear happens each time. Still, it's up to the shooter.
  4. I have always understood that dropping the slide on an empty chamber was bad for the sear (at least on a 1911), so it has seemed to me that most (if not all) instances of a flip and catch are, effectively, dropping the slide on an empty chamber.
  5. Not something I'd try anytime soon, but it seems odd that in many of the exercises he draws to the right side target first. It seems always going to the target in front of you would be better. Is right, left, front, back better? I understand what scanning the area is for after shooting, but I wo wonder if, for many, it simply becomes a movement rather than a true scan. It strikes somewhat like some of the old training where the shooter would pocket his brass when reloading even in an actual gunfight, because that was the habit developed on the training range. Scanning and seeing may not always be the same.
  6. When you removed the bullets from the bore, what was the condition of the bases? If the base of the bullet was dirty, it was primer only. If they were clean, there was powder present that did not ignite. If there was powder, and it did not ignite, main suspicion falls on the wet cleaning first. GUy
  7. Guy Neill


    Hard to beat Redding or RCBS dies.
  8. COAL is usually Cartridge OverAll Length
  9. For iflyskyhigh Does the expander plug enter a resized case all the way to the flaring portion when tried by hand (not in the die or the press? It should not if all is normal, meaning that when the force from the press pushes it into the casing, it is sizing the interior of the case. This is what gives bullet tension uniformity even with varying case wall thickness. Here is a statement from the Lyman die instructions: The first step of this plug expands the neck to slightly under bullet diameter while the second step expands the first 1/16" of the neck to slightly over bullet diameter. This allows cast bullets to enter the case without shaving lead. Guy
  10. Okay - in a three die set for straight-wall cases you; Die #1 - sizes the exterior of the case and decaps the spent primer. Die #2 - expands the ID of the case and adds a flare to the case mouth. Die #3 - seats the bullet and capable of crimping. The part in Die #2 that is capable of flaring the case mouth also has a portion that extends into the case a short distance - expanding the interior to the proper ID for the bullet. This cylindrical portion should be about 0.002" smaller than the bullet diameter and is the expander plug (or ball). \ The Lyman "M" die is just another form of expander plug that produces a cylindrical flare instead of the more common tapered flare. Guy
  11. That is before loading - right? What is the diameter of some of those that fell out? If small, they may have been swaged by an excessive crimp. If not small. refer back to the expander ball diameter, case wall thickness and sizer die action. Adjusting the sizer all the way down should help, but only minimally for a straight-wall casing. Guy
  12. Okay - call it the expander plug then. It enters the case, expanding it to an ID to hold the bullet, then, at the top, it flares the case. Whatever you want to call it, it performs the same function as the expander ball in a bottle-neck die, with the added ability to flare the case mouth. Guy
  13. If you feel your crimp is okay (is it a taper or roll crimp?), then it may be a matter of the interplay between the case wall thickness, resizing die, bullet diameter and expander ball. The crimp is not all that should be holding the bullet. Also, too much crimp can swage the bullet small (since it does not spring back) resulting in an undersize bullet. Can you turn the bullets by hand after loading? Roll crimps are generally better for revolvers since they tend to pull bullets while semi-autos tend to push bullets in. If the resizing die is not sizing enough, or the expander ball is too large compared to the billet diameter, there may not be adequate tension holding the bullet. What is the bullet diameter? The expander ball should be about 0.002" smaller than the bullet diameter. Thin wall cases may not get enough sizing, even with a good sizing die, to give good bullet tension. Guy
  14. I have witnessed primer only squibs that left the bullet about an inch from the muzzle of a 5" 45 Auto - at least with lead bullets. Jacketed will likely not go as far. Different primers will have differing power. I've examined numerous other guns that were damaged from having a BIB (bullet in bore) squib, but I don't know that they were primer only or contaminated at this point. Don't assume squibs (whatever the cause) will always prevent chambering the next round. Guy
  15. Different powders will display different degrees of flash. Some powders have additives to reduce flash - particularly military powders. The flash will also vary in color, as well as intensity. Muzzle flash is mostly potentially a problem in the dark.
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