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Guy Neill

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  1. I believe Wilson has dropped the 38 Super. Nighthawk may be a consideration as well. Or, perhaps, shops like Cylinder & Slide or similar.
  2. Take a look at some of them and see if you see any tiny black dots on the case wall. Each black dot is a corrosion pit. They are very small. Aluminum corrosion is nothing like brass corrosion. Aluminum cases that crack with the crack being a straight line are due to scratches. Cracks that are jagged are a connect the dots where the crack propagated from corrosion pit to corrosion pit. Both will commonly damage the chamber of the gun.
  3. While small rifle and small pistol primers have the same dimensions, the large pistol and large rifle differ. Large rifle primers are taller than large pistol.
  4. Most, if not all, CCI Blazer aluminum cases are now Boxer primed. The main reason not to reload aluminum cases is that resizing scrapes through the protective coatings, exposing the bare aluminum to corrosion. Aluminum corrosion takes the form of pits into the metal, The coatings are to protect from corrosion and provide lubricity. Firing a corroded aluminum case has a great chance of eroding the chamber.
  5. If you have a gauge, or using your barrel, see how well some of them drop in as an assessment. Many like to resize even new cases - especially with progressive loaders, but it may not be needed . It's likely more common to size new rifle cases than handgun to true the neck. Chamfering the ID helps prevent the cases from sticking on the expander. which can sometimes leave slivers of brass if the corner is pinched off by the expander.
  6. You may want to tumble them a bit to add dust to help in the sizer, if you will size them before loading. Also, chamfer the ID of the case mouth.
  7. Running some numbers for a 45 Auto With a charge weight making 170 PF with a 200gr bullet gives a recoil of 5.2 ft-lbs. Changing to a 185gr bullet with the same powder charge changes the recoil to 4.1 ft-lbs. Velocity went down for the lighter bullet at the given powder charge.
  8. Hmm - a container. I've used zipper bags - like a bank bag. I've seen such at Walmart. Either Walmart or an office supply should have utility boxes of various sizes that may serve.
  9. Generally, any tools required to field strip the gun. Rags to wipe it down and oil So, if any Allen wrenches are needed, include them. A bushing wrench, if needed. Paper clips if a one piece full length spring guide needing to capture the recoil spring for field stripping. Whatever wrench/screwdriver to tighten grip screws or adjust sights. If you have any anticipation of removing the firing pin, a punch or small screwdriver for that. A cleaning kit That should cover most needs.
  10. For a 1911, I've broken; Bushing Full length recoil spring guide Sights (front, rear and optic) thumb safety Had a plunger tube pull out of the frame Bent firing pin Extractor Recoil spring plug Slide stop Barrel That I recall at the moment. My dry fire gun has a broken firing pin stop. The best procedure is to have a backup gun. Then you can explore the problem at greater leisure for the gun that broke.
  11. If you think the maximum loads are conservative, point the finger at SAAMI. All the reloading manuals I've worked on had the maximum loads at the SAAMI Maximum Average Pressure.
  12. Try a small batch first and evaluate after shooting. Were the loads worked up at the present OAL? Jacketed or plated bullets? Plated are generally more forgiving. If the bullets are presently contacting the rifling, giving them some distance off the rifling will likely be beneficial.
  13. I suppose clues were there even if I don't pay much attention to dates. Never thought guns and ammunition were joking matters. Not that there cannot be humor. Ask me sometime about the fellow that called to complain that the primers he bought had no bottoms.
  14. Technically, I believe the frame ramp angle is a bit different on the 38 Super than the 45, but I'm not certain how critical it is. Kuhnhausen may have details. (How have you been?)
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