raz-0

The firing pin spring is a safety mechanism, so I’d not be inclined to mess with it if possible. As previously noted, the first thing I’d look at is the ammo. If you have pics of ammo it would be useful to diagnose. I terms of things you can mess with, there’s always an extended hammer strut if you don’t already have one.

The first shot is presumably racked by hand? Is the disconnector winding up in the right spot only when actually fired?

My 2011 will shoot factory .40 just fine, and almost all the rounds through it are my handloads that have an OAL slightly longer than factory, but that work in my other .40 pistols that are not XX11 platform guns. The long stuff is easier to make a soft feeling major load with some powders, but there's not a huge difference in performance. between the long stuff an the not so long stuff loaded to the same power factor. But living in a capacity limited state, I am also not using tuned mags with wafer thin followers. Other post came in while I was writing, and figured I'd add the source of mine as well... which is a gun built by gans guns back when he still did that.

OK, have you tried the pencil test?

Not the cartridge specifically, but more .32 ACP than I have encountered in my life somehow found its way into my 5 gallon bucket of range pickup 9mm. Gah.

OK, I'm going to be that guy that reminds you to check the stupid obvious stuff. Have you verified there's nothing in the firing pin channel that shouldn't be there?

The key to 2.3.4 is competitive equity, and it can come up with situations that go along with the usual problems of level I matches and "staffing". There's gamed, and then there's "gamed". If someone figures our a way to game a stage within the rules, it can alter scores for everyone going after them, but that is part of the game. Unfortunately you get people who think they are doing that (or are pretending they are doing that, but really know they are breaking the rules) and at level I matches aren't necessarily being managed by ROs who know enough to stop it with the first person or before it happens. In the version with the least cheating, something was confusing on the written stage briefing, and nobody asked for clarification before doing something not within the rules, and now you have half the match running it by the rules and half not and gaining a competitive advantage. DQing half the match isn't a good way to keep attendance up, and most of the people doing it were just trusting the statements of someone else rather than trying to break the rules. Their intent wasn't to cheat. So you most often toss the stage to restore competitive equity. It's a significant hazard if you don't have dedicated ROs. It can still happen with dedicated ROs when you have people seeing how far beyond the rules they can sneak paired up with less experienced dedicated ROs. They'll ask before cheating and get the RO to say it's OK. My take may be a bit biased, as my main local match usually runs seven stages. Dropping a stage is less punitive than in a 4 stage match. Sometimes you just have to DQ a whole squad. Especially if they aren't getting with the program and sticking to the rules.

The box stock x-5 legion seems to aim for a 4lb trigger. It is pretty smooth, but it has a pretty long travel for both activation and reset, and has a pretty significant amount of overtravel. A trigger with overtravel adjustment plus an apex trigger bar seriously cuts down on that. If you don't find the stock trigger a bit of a reach, you will likely find that setup a huge improvement. You can try to do the same with a trigger with pretravel and overtravel adjustment, but with too much pretravel dialed out, you eliminate the drop safety. The apex bar improves things while leaving the drop safety operating as it does form the factory (or really, really close, to tell 100% I'd need a cutaway gun and don't have one.). I do think the out of the box trigger is a nice configuration for a total newbie looking to lean good trigger control through the whole sweep. But I suspect it will be more work to hit the same scores compared to a good trigger setup when you start running into that area where picking up a tenth is significant progress. If you want a lighter pull, you need the GG kit for the sear and springs. For my personal gun I'm running an armory craft trigger, apex trigger bar, GG sear and intermediate trigger return spring and sear springs. Yup, I dumped about as much as you can into drop in parts to get to here. Knowing what I do now, I'd probably try the apex bar with the pin sleeve for overtravel first. I suspect I'd wind up with that and a GG kit since it now has an overtravel screw. I get about a 2.5lb trigger pull with pretty minimal trigger travel, greatly reduced takeup, and very little overtravel. It passes my personal safety test as well, which is being able to drag the gun fully loaded up with dummy rounds across carpet on an inclined plane without tripping the sear. It's intended to represent an oops while retrieving the gun form a dump bucket in 3-gun given the absence of an external safety.

The traditional approach to this is to profile the firing pin stop plate to move the point of contact up. It's way cheaper to replace if you mess it up.

It’s shiny at the top to mimic a single stack 1911 mag to preserve the geometry for feeding rounds. You will not be able to get the position and angle with other mags without redesigning the receiver. if you want a 2012 with cz mags just get a dan wesson dwx. Not sure if any of them have shipped yet, but they are solving that particular problem.

Pre travel is adjusted with a tab on the trigger bow. If you don’t have that, you don’t have pre travel adjustment. You’d need to buy a new trigger for that.

The right side grip should have a relief cut and there should be a tab on the right hand side of the ambi safety that fits under that. That tab being under the grip is what keep the right side lever form falling out. Those grips appear to all have the cut on their website. So they should work. From their website, the bul safety seems like the tab might be on the short side compared to looking at a springfield or S&W, and the tonisystems grips look like they relieve that cut a bit compared to other grips, so you might have tolerance stacking between the two parts causing issues. If that's the case, it means either new grips or a new safety. A new safety would need to be fitted.

I've got times I prefer them, it depends on the cartridge and the gun. I like them on my .45s. In .40 and 9 I can take them or leave them. Practically other than "that feels better" which can be totally in one's head, I have found a couple practical uses that can justify them. 1) When you have issue racking the slide, but going to a lower spring rate is not an option for whatever reason. I find a lot of people have less issue with higher weights if they can get the slide moving easier. For me I have one gun in a slick finish on a fairly polished surface, and it will always have a variable rate because of sweat and summer time. 2) If you have spring stacking going on and have to clip coils, you can clip a variable rate spring at the light end and not really reduce spring weight much. I've only really done a few coils this way during my dark days of indulging in recoil buffer voodoo, so it may be less meaningful than I imagine.

IT depends on the holster, and the type of 2011 you want to put in it. A full length wide dust cover vs a standard dust cover are going to fit different holsters. I use my 2011 in a 1911 holster that is slightly modified to clear the mag release. A standard dust cover isn't identical to a mil-spec 1911 frame, but it's close enough for most holsters. You will experience similar issues with 1911s with full length dust covers, light rails etc. But in general if it supports a similar style 2011, it should work reasonably well with the matching style 2011 and vise versa. Worst case is a little wiggle. (I have a older style safariland ALS for a 1911 with full length light rail. It works fine with my standard frame 1911 with ball cut slide. If I don't adjust the tension screw for the smaller dust cover, there is a very slight wiggle. My 2011 will also fit in that holster, but with interference fron the mag release due to the wider grip and having an extended button.)

Thanks, sounds like the moa is the way to go.

So with covid and the lack of shooting it seemed like a good time to get a lightning lifter from MOA precision for my stoeger. Unfortunately they haven't had stock in like forever. J kenny has stock and costs like 150% of the price. Neither has a lot of reviews, although I have seen the lightning lifter in person and it seems to work as advertised. Anyone have feedback on the j kenny part? Anyone know why the lightning lifter has been out of stock forever and if it will ever be back in stock?

https://media.midwayusa.com/productdocuments/applicationchart/678/1911_front_sight_cut_dimensions.pdf That covers pretty much all of the cuts. If you measure the slot width, you should be able to narrow it to two choices in most cases. That's what I did after consulting dawson, and got it in 1 fortunately. Maybe someone else will have better advice.

My experience is similar to Boomstick. I can put a whole mag in a ~2" ragged hole inside 10 yards and get most of my hits well withing a 3.5" shoot n see style target at 20 and that's my limitations on being consistent, not the gun's. I also got significantly better groups with fast 124gr loads than with 147gr loads. So far the most accurate ammo I have shot through it has been old S&B bulk 124 FMJ. They have kind of long bullets and run about 1100fps in my gun. Compared to some 147 plated running about 870fps, it was about double what the S&B did where some old 14gr fmj loads form the lat time I shot 9mm were cranking about 1050fps and were close in accuracy to the S&B. My new initial loads with 124gr JHP were running about 1030fps average and were not quite as accurate as either of the other 124gr loads I tried. Digging around various forums, I've seen similar results. Fast 124 being the sweet spot with fast 115 being pretty good as well, and slower 147 causing a bit of aggravation for some. Now I just have to get out and try my new faster 124gr JHP load.

Heh. I've run matches and among them was a pretty decent sized steel challenge match with "carnival" sides set up. So lots of weird rules intended to be fun. I like Shred's idea for bracket times to even the playing field and make it accessible. Just have people pick their time interval and if they go over by too much or under by too much they lose. You would have to experiment with how much range to give people, but if you can get it to work you could in theory have a C class shooter win against an M shooter. In theory. One thing I learned about these weird things is you have to prototype it and test it unless you want live problems day of. The timing and staging setup you initially suggested is too complex. There's a reason shooting timers are what they are. They work, and they work across enough stuff that it is worth making them. As for the overlapping poppers being the determining factor of winning, well poppers aren't all equal, and even with the best design for this you will get some random variance greater than the delta between two very good shooters. Steel challenge is basically the drag racing of pistols. It's just not head to head because timers don't like that. The only way I see to do a mechanical head to head properly is where the last target is shared. That way it doesn't matter how beat up it is, if it isn't standing, you can't shoot it. But you can't do that without having reversed layouts for each shooter, which isn't really apples to apples. Not that it doesn't have the core of something potentially fun to shoot, but it definitely needs some development to be practical to implement.

We can hope. given guns are different dimensions, I don't think we will ever have one size fits all, but all we need are a few people in the industry to get together, form a group that names things, and then just issue an non trademarked name to each mount size. They can't patent the hole spacing. Drilling holes a measured consistent distance from each other is way too basic. But they have trademarks and it makes referencing anything a pain in the butt.

I have the vibra prime. It does well with federal. It is cranky with winchester, it doesn't really like CCI primers as best as I can recall. I got the primer pro and I have to say I am very much not impressed with it. I've run federal and Winchester primers through it. It literally has a 200 primer count on it, and both brands hit the automatic shut off a couple of times before filling the tube. The primers, despite being properly oriented jsut fall right back out of the slots. rather than going through the "keyhole". They don't seem to have enough inertia after the first 30-50 to pull off that trick unless I hold the whole thing in my hand and reorient it to help speed them on their way. I have friends who have the dillons. They have issues too. I have to reach out for some CS on the primer pro, but at this point I'd say get the vibraprime or the hornady equivalent. At least their issues seem to be more tractable and you get them for cheaper. For me I need something, because the repeated poking motion aggravates a previous wrist injury.

With USPSA scoring, consistency carries a LOT of weight.

I don't think making it hard to find out what fits what is the same as a product being defective. That being said, I'm painfully aware that they use different mounts and do my research. I shouldn't have to call up customer support to know what I'm buying, and that is more or less the current state of the industry regarding MRDs. And yeah, many people failed at their job pretty hard across the industry. In general, I wouldn't mind if those folks were replaced with people who get it and provide a better customer experience.

What's your definition of moderate use? Any idea of round count? The striker hook, well cast is cast, which is why I picked up a spare immediately. If it dies, it wouldn't be the first striker fired pistol that has failed that way for me. Also was that on the original style or the revised lightened one? How the heck do sear springs break? They are two helical springs. Not exactly something we don't know how to make well. By the drop safety lever I assume you mean the seesaw bit sandwiched between the cartoon dinosaur head disconnector and the sear. If that broke on you I have to wonder what is up with your gun, as it should have virtually no load on it. It pushes up a piece of stamped steel held down by the worlds least springy spring. But subjecting cast parts to unintended shocks would explain a lot of breaking of parts. So I have to wonder if something is out of spec with yours and things that should not be getting whacked by moving parts are getting whacked by moving parts. Or moving out of where they are supposed to be... and thus subsequently getting whacked when they shouldn't be. As for the chipping sear, the metal or the plating? I have wondered if the plating will wear well with time. it seems very similar to fail zero's coating, and I know that can have bad batches which makes it a concern for any high volume production.

It's user preference. If you don't like the locked in feel, you want to get a big hands style mag well with the sides hogged out.