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raz-0

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About raz-0

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    Beyond it All
  • Birthday 05/27/1973

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    Sayreville, NJ
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    Matt de Vries

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  1. I like to set mine up so the dot is where it hits. There is no best, it's personal preference. I zero my sights at 7 yards then refine it at 15. I then sanity check it for hitting a plate sized target at 20. If I got time and the set up I'll sanity check with a full sized ipsc at 40.
  2. Had that happen on one of my 1911s. Followed the peening advice. Turned out the pin had broken in two. Attempting to peen it was counterproductive. My $0.02 is if it wasn't walking the whole time and suddenly it is with no changes, verify nothing broke.
  3. If it's built well that's really not a bad price at all with four mags included.
  4. With the split foot follower, I've run into similar situations due to the following causes. Most were not 9mm guns so your mileage may vary. 1) mags that seemed to be made of thinner or softer steel where the feed lips would start spreading with use, allowing the follower to flex, move or tilt in some manner that would allow it to hang up on the stop. 2) sloppily made and or modified mags that permit over insertion. These mags usually have a couple of issues combined to cause the op's issue. One I had was a mil-spec looking flush fit that wasn't due to a slightly too long body and the notch for the mag catch in the wrong place. It'd cause all sorts of problems. Another were some cmc 10 rounders. The base pad had issues with my magwell and I was overzealous in trimming them and messed up the tooth that pervents over insertion. After some use some got stepped on enough they developed a slight bend to them. Combine those issues and whenever I really slammed a mag home it would bind up in the gun, refuse to drop free, and frequently present the follower hooked on the slide stop problem. 3) A 9mm gun with staked spacers in the mags. Turns out the spacers didn't go all the way to the bottom. Somehow one of the mags got the spacer pushed down. This permitted the shorter 9mm follower to tilt like it shouldn't and sometimes it would hang up on the stop.
  5. When I removed the ils mainspring housing from my Springfield armory full dust cover trp operator, I went to a 17lb wolff main spring coupled with a 15lb progressive recoil spring. I shot about-5k of factory 230gr fmj on that setup. Mostly mag-tech and web. Then another 15k or so of handloads. 230 fmj or plates over 4.5gr of titegroup. Iirc, about 176pf. No real durability or reliability issues. Can't say it's optimal for recoil or not as its a heavy gun. At around 20k I moved away from.45 for cost reasons. Later on I had a 2011 built from parts. Sent the gunsmith the same 17lb wolff mainspring. He chucked it saying it was over 17lbs. Whatever it actually is its lighter than the SA stock spring which claims 21lbs, and heavier than the spring my gunsmith claims is 17.
  6. What brand holster? Having handled several of both, I don't see why the trojan would need a different holster. The trojan and rail-less range officer are EXTREMELY similar. That's not by accident.
  7. I know a lot of the local guys have had good results from the SW1911 pro 9mm. A bit more than the RO, but they seem to be nice guns that run out of the box.
  8. An incredibly good deal if the gun runs. Mostly tri-topped eagle with a metal SVI grip. takes weight off where it shouldn't be, puts it where it should. Enough mags that you have to be able to put together three that work. $1700. I assume you have a belt. Two mag pouches and a holster can be done for ~$110-120.
  9. I've seen plenty of very, very good deals go by on the forum. Subscribe to the for sale forum and check your mail daily, You will see guns with mags go up for way less than the cost of an atlas anything. If you can get a decent gun with two 20+ mags, you can get run of the mill mags to flesh out your set for now. You can get into a functioning 2011 for under $2k. Not much under, but under.
  10. Way back I ran a 1.5-5 and a 1-4. Then for a long while I ran a 3moa dot. Now I'm going back to magnified, but a good quality scope. With the popular 1-6 and 1-8 3gun scopes, the 1x is a world of difference from the early days of 1-4x scopes. We'll see how I do with it this season, but the guys I shoot with were a collection of red dots, irons and 1-4x people. Everyone is moving to decent 1-6 or 1-8 glass that has daylight visible illumination. The answer to your question of "am I costing myself time" is yes. By the raw, heads up, only first place matters and how close am I to it type of counting, you are costing yourself time. By the the metric of can I go faster compared to myself type of counting the answer is yes. The more long distance shots, the bigger the yes becomes. The more bay stages, the smaller the yes becomes, especially the yes to you vs. you. Compared to a 1-4 with an fairly unforgiving eye box, you will pick up time on close in stuff and small bays moving to a dot. However, with the newer scopes you aren't picking up much time if any using a dot because the new, good scopes are so forgiving of eye position at 1x. On top of that, very often to keep bay stages remotely challenging, the rifle is either omitted in 3 gun, or you wind up with reduced targets or headshots only, or some other situation where sight offset matters. In these instances, the gap may narrow even more because the reticle may be useful in establishing the right holdover faster, or because you can spend a second to bump up the magnification and be really precise on a reduced target at 50 yards. Compared to somene of similar skill to yourself you are probably picking up a couple seconds per bay stage. Maybe. But then there's longer ranges. Where you will give back those seconds pretty rapidly. Especially as you hit the edge of your visual abilities. I've gotten pretty good at hitting 6" steel offhand at 100, but for me at 200 anything below 8" becomes more about chance and accuracy through volume than about any actual skill. Even if the target is big enough that hitting it shouldn't be challenging, at distances where canting starts to matter, having a reticle that helps you to estimate reasonably if you are canting badly is advantageous. Then there's situational things. Got even a minor astigmatism? Prismatic or magnified is for you! It's humid and just cold enough to be flurrying? Guess how fast your optics are going to fog up? The magnified optics with the glass slightly recessed from the end of the tube out on a cantilever mount will fog up slower. On a 100 yard stage that gives you much more opportunity to actually finish before the fog gets you. aimpoint micros and clones are the worst in that situation. You got a shot up hunk of ar500 out there agaisnt a gravel back drop? Well the AR coatings that help make the rd dot work rob you of contrast. The good 1-X scopes have way better contrast, so those targets are easier to see and aim at faster. Also remember canting? From normal positions, canting may not be an issue if you practice your technique, but sometimes 3 gun is about pretzelizing yourself to accommodate stage demands. Then there's the matter of fun. If we wanted to shoot by ourselves, we wouldn't be at a match. Last match of the season I went to had 70 something people. It had 6 limited shooters and we weren't even placed all that close together, so it isn't even like you could just say I'm here to beat Bob who is always a bit better than me.
  11. I went with the titanium firing pin to keep the mass down which gives you more margin of safety for an accidental drOp of the gun with a series 70 setup. A light trigger shoe/stirrup does similar for drops and a light trigger. The strut I did because it wasn't much more and was the only in stock extended strut. The cap I did because it everything else was titanium and the steel one I had on hand was machined like poop and very rough. The titanium one was machined nicely. In terms of feel and speed? Doesn't really do much that nicely machined steel wouldn't. Even the fast guys don't hit the cyclic rate of a 1911 going full auto. If it added speed it would add it there. But it's all part of a nice 1.8 lb trigger that isn't picky about primer choice.
  12. Hmm looks like the October match runs into blue ridge mountain. Are we doing the shoot them all or shoot for fun thing this year? Also, got a date for the 3-man match yet?
  13. Only time I have had issues with .40 at 1.135 is with a barrel that was supposedly finish chambered but was not, or has been done incorrectly. A number of thing can cause feeding issues. Check your feed lip dimensions and make sure the bullets aren't dragging on the front as they feed.
  14. It needs lube, but not on the ramp imo. You want something that doesn't dry up to soon. I use slide glide or slide glide light most of the year. A thicker oil like fp-10 in really cold weather. My 1911s will go 1000 rounds between cleanings. Depending on my powder, the mags might not. Using titegroup and 230gr fmj bullets, running 5x 10 round mags as my setup, I'd get to about 750 before I'd get enough carbon on the feed lips of a mag to cause issues. With slower burning universal clays, I didn't get anywhere near that amount of gas escaping before the bread expanded and sealed, so no carbon fouling on the mags. With my 2011 in 40 a q-tip to the feed ramp and adding a few drops of lube to the rails, it can go indefinitely it seems. It usually gets kind of gross around 4k. With the description of your problem I'd check your mags or your ammo or both. It's possible the feed lips are out of spec and causing the bullet to feed slightly low. Alternately, the ammo could be longer than the mags or gun likes, and the bullet sets back a bit when it malfunctions and works the next time. It could also be anything that slows the follower pushing up the next round or alters the geometry of the feeding bullet vs ramp. So burrs on witness holes in the mags, a burr on the firing on hole, pinched feed lips from getting stepped on. Spread feed lips that allow too much follower tilt (this one is represented by failures at the last 2 or 3 rounds, and more common with traditional followers rather than solid ones like trip or Wilson offer). The previously mentioned carbon build up on feed lips causing drag. A poorly prepped or finished extractor causing drag as the case head slides up the breech face. Too much extractor tension (although less likely to be intermittent in my experience), or some piece of crud in the extractor tunnel affecting extractor tension. The 1911 is from the days labor was cheap, and the design makes use of that. A lot of production 1911s can use a bit of a fluff and buff, but the design isn't inherently picky once it is set up right. Also, it probably has the most number of manufacturers making mags to fit it. Mag quality varies a LOT, and like every semi auto, sketchy mags mean sketchy reliability. Tripp mags are imo the best. With the wilsons coming in second (I do not like their 10 round.45 mags I've seen too many have the over insertion tab snap at the weld from repeated use where the tab and gun didn't agree 100% on dimensions and tolerances). Metal forms with the rounded follower are also good, and my 7 round metalform mags even with gi style split foot followers always ran. Cmc 10 round mags can be made to work reliably but need a fair amount of maintenance with feed lip dimensions. I'd readjust them to where they needed to be every couple of matches.
  15. http://shop.fiberopticproducts.com/Fiber-Optic-Lighting/Fluorescent-Fiber Its by the meter and about half what Dawson charges per foot.
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