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Atlas chaos issues


Bwillis

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Fanboy or not, Agree with giving original maker or smith a few opportunities to fix their problems. If years go by and they still havent accomplished anything then it is quite alright to send it elsewhere. (Dont buy from LOSOK) I sent rifle back to him 5-10 times over 3 years trying to give him a chance to make it shoot straight. Ended up selling the rifle for parts.

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I think you will get covered and they will make it right.

 

I was thinking about this issue and the reason why it wouldnt lock up completely on first round.

 

Did you notice any abnormal wear on locking lugs on barrel or slide? Are they by chance rounded off or have excessive wear?

 

If I was you, I would be very very curious to find out in details what was wrong once they figure it out.

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7 hours ago, SeattleDude said:

I think you will get covered and they will make it right.

 

I was thinking about this issue and the reason why it wouldnt lock up completely on first round.

 

Did you notice any abnormal wear on locking lugs on barrel or slide? Are they by chance rounded off or have excessive wear?

 

If I was you, I would be very very curious to find out in details what was wrong once they figure it out.


I didn’t notice abnormal wear, the gun seems to lock up tight. If I press down on the chamber the barrel doesn’t wiggle at all. When I spoke with adam yesterday he said he would be the working on it. 

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Gun isn’t fully locking up when you hand cycle the rounds. Next Range trip try slamming the slide home when loading it. There are quite a few other threads about this exact “phenomenon”, provided that is what you are referring to.


What he said. You’ll even have issues on first round hand racked not being close to chrono. Or being outside your normal standard deviation. And because the round isn’t seated in the chamber as if it were actually cycled in there you will have accuracy issues. Concentricity issues.

I mean what’s the variable here? Hand racked. I’m not really sure why this would even matter to anyone. Like you’re not going through a stage with a bolt Gun cycling it each time.

Also what’s your overall length? You could try stepping it out maybe. If you really wanna geek out you could use dykem die on a bullet. Seat it extra long on an empty case and see where it actually Engages the lands and grooves. And then back your overal length a little from there.


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22 hours ago, 2Alphamikenoshoot said:

 


What he said. You’ll even have issues on first round hand racked not being close to chrono. Or being outside your normal standard deviation. And because the round isn’t seated in the chamber as if it were actually cycled in there you will have accuracy issues. Concentricity issues.

I mean what’s the variable here? Hand racked. I’m not really sure why this would even matter to anyone. Like you’re not going through a stage with a bolt Gun cycling it each time.

Also what’s your overall length? You could try stepping it out maybe. If you really wanna geek out you could use dykem die on a bullet. Seat it extra long on an empty case and see where it actually Engages the lands and grooves. And then back your overal length a little from there.


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1.165 is my oal, 

376 crimp,
8.5gr hs6 and cci 400 primer 

Everglade 115gr jhp,

lee undersize die, rc micro dial seating die and lee crimp die using a 650.

 

it matters because It leads to doubt, if it’s not going into lockup on while being hand cycled how can I be certain it is on every other round? Also what if the stage is better to draw on a long shot, popper or tight shot. Adam contacted me Monday sent me shipping label within 10 min of our conversation ending. I shipped it out and he received it Wednesday so hopefully I will hear from him soon on what the issue is. 

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1.165 is my oal, 
376 crimp,
8.5gr hs6 and cci 400 primer 
Everglade 115gr jhp,
lee undersize die, rc micro dial seating die and lee crimp die using a 650.
 
it matters because It leads to doubt, if it’s not going into lockup on while being hand cycled how can I be certain it is on every other round? Also what if the stage is better to draw on a long shot, popper or tight shot. Adam contacted me Monday sent me shipping label within 10 min of our conversation ending. I shipped it out and he received it Wednesday so hopefully I will hear from him soon on what the issue is. 


If you take one shot at a time and it’s still PAO poi. Or fast doubles and it’d poi poa then there shouldn’t be any doubt.



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5 hours ago, 2Alphamikenoshoot said:

I’m interested to see what happens here.


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adam just called me the gun was comp striking and I left my recoil spring to long and was getting coil bind. 

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22 minutes ago, 2Alphamikenoshoot said:

 


Was it the spring that came with it?
Isn’t he using the same comps for all the KKM barrels?


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no, I had changed the recoil spring when I first noticed the issue. I was seeing if a new spring would assist the gun into lockup and I guess I left it long.  I think he uses the same comp for all kkm barrels but I’m not certain. 

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45 minutes ago, Maximis228 said:

So he didnt ream the comp off the start? And "coil binding" is just made up jargon smiths use to place blame on the end user.

 


It appears something changed the orientation, I’m not really sure how or why it started comp striking 8k rounds in. That’s what I was told. How is coil binding placing blame on the end user? 

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24 minutes ago, Bwillis said:


It appears something changed the orientation, I’m not really sure how or why it started comp striking 8k rounds in. That’s what I was told. How is coil binding placing blame on the end user? 

 

My guess is it was always bad (Never reamed)... then some comp build up causing more deflection.

 

You only have 8K on the gun. Unless the spring snapped... nothing is going to be wrong with it. Ive got recoil springs in open guns with 50K+ on them running like a swish watch still. Cut... uncut... variable... standard... doesn't matter.

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The bullet striking the comp has nothing to do if it was hand racked or not.  I call BS on that one.  It either has baffle strikes or it doesn't.  IF it really did have baffle strikes, then the comp was loose (which should have been found during the $250 "tune-up") or was not reamed properly if at all. 

 

 

Edited by echotango
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Chaos is stroked - recoil spring MUST be less than 1.370" compressed or gun will spring bind.

For example, a stock Wolff 8# fixed rate spring is 38 coils and 1.520" compressed - needs coils removed to get under 1.370" compressed.

A stock Wolff 8# variable rate is 1.221" compressed and works great as is.

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20 hours ago, Bwillis said:


adam just called me the gun was comp striking and I left my recoil spring to long and was getting coil bind. 

Did you pay shipping again to ship it back again and are you paying shipping to get it home?

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46 minutes ago, Shmella said:

Did you pay shipping again to ship it back again and are you paying shipping to get it home?


No to both questions,  I only paid the original $250 for tuneup which included shipping both ways. 

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What’s your load data? I had issues with different powders like CFE SIlo AA7 etc where as 3n38 is lights out accurate , also depending on what rounds you are loading from coated to JHP make a huge different as well. 

   8.8 to 9.1 garbage 

    9.3 to 9.6 decent 10.2 is dialed at 20 yards 

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5 hours ago, Mlussoro said:

What’s your load data? I had issues with different powders like CFE SIlo AA7 etc where as 3n38 is lights out accurate , also depending on what rounds you are loading from coated to JHP make a huge different as well. 

   8.8 to 9.1 garbage 

    9.3 to 9.6 decent 10.2 is dialed at 20 yards 


8.5 gr hs6
115gr Everglade v2 

1.165 oal

3.76 crimp

1500 fps avg 172.5 pf 

lee undersize die, rcbs seating die, lee crimp die 

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