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Good solutions for dealing with handguard heat in an AR


Nemesis Lead

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I shoot an occasional "outlaw" type match with insane round counts.

I generally hate these type of matches because of the expense involved and wear on my rifles, but my friends shoot them so I do too. :mellow:

I often wear gloves for these stages/matches. But are there AR handguard/barrel/pic rail attachments/heat shields that work better than others?

Just wondering if there is an optimum combination for dealing with extreme heat rifle / handguard heat.

Edited by Nemesis Lead
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I usually end up using a polymer vertical grip on rifles that I expect to heat up in a short amount of time. I've found that even with a relatively heavy barrel / handguard combination, my transitions don't suffer as much as expected.

It is important to figure out placement on the rail and what works for you however. Just remember to factor in how long you expect to be holding the rifle up at any given time. If fatigue is a concern, you may want to put the grip a little closer towards your body than normal.

I haven't tried it, but if you don't want to use a vertical grip, this might also be an option:
http://www.manta.us/products.php#!/TAC-Wrap-Black/p/46731262/category=8233822

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I'm curious of round count too. Also, what hand guard are you using?

I have used the Troy Alpha rail and Samson Evo rail. Both of these have been great and I have not experienced them "heating up".

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I took my Troy rail off due to this problem and went back to my Yankee Hill rail with the Magpul covers. Still get some heat but not as bad. I have considered the vertical grip but never got inspired enough to follow through with it.

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I have found that the absolute best way to avoid having the gun get hot as balls is to hit the target with the first shot. Less total rounds from the gun from not missing will certainly result in a far cooler gun and lower ammo bill. If you need a glove or a vertical forgery to avoid an overheated rifle you have most certainly shot too much.

Edited by Stlhead
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The vented CF HGs like AP don't heat up, but because they are vented, they allow the heat surrounding the gas black to come through. I had a 2 mag dump one one stage and had to stop when I couldn't handle the rifle any longer. I now keep a lightweight glove on my left hand to help in case I run into the same problem.

Edited by v1911
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Shot at the Chabot Gun Range near Oakland, CA. [Tried to post a link, but it won't let me for some reason.]

One stage on Sunday took me 80 or so rounds. I have seen hundred round stages there.

A common theme is "Engage 4 steel targets between 180 to 200 yards away. Engage each target twice. Now repeat at 7 other shooting positions." 64 rounds minimum.

I had a BCM KMR hand guard (very small diameter) and it was freaking hot. Approaching the edge of usability with a bare hand.

Edited by Nemesis Lead
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The vented CF HGs like AP don't heat up, but because they are vented, they allow the heat surrounding the gas black to come through. I had a 2 mag dump one one stage and had to stop when I couldn't handle the rifle any longer. I now keep a lightweight glove on my left hand to help in case I run into the same problem.

I thought the ap was the way to go because it didn't heat up, then I shot ironman. left it on the staging table while waiting my turn to go, hot hand guard. shot the stage, burnt hand.

you can try something like this.

http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1471

Edited by jon49erfan
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Option A: Paracord...

1) Obtain paracord of your chosen color. I recommend "real" 550 parachute cord, with white strands inside a colored outer sheath, rather than the braided stuff you get at WalMart.
2) Cut the paracord to length. For a plain-vanilla aluminum AR15 FF tube, you will need about 4 feet of paracord for every inch of tube you want to cover - I found I needed more for the wider LR-308 FF tube (about 50ft total IIRC). Once cut, heat-seal the ends using a lighter flame to prevent fraying.
3) Cut another length of paracord to approximately 18" long, fold in half, and then tie a knot with the loose ends to create a loop about 9" long.
4) Soak the longer length of paracord (from step 2) in water until its saturated, then shake off the excess water. This is an important step, as it makes the paracord stretch slightly.
5) Starting with one cut end of the wet paracord several inches in towards the middle of the FF tube, lay the paracord lengthwise along the tube towards the end you want to start wrapping. Now start wrapping the paracord around the tube, keeping things as tight as you can and working your way towards the opposite end. The wrapping will cover the first several inches you had initially layed lengthwise, thus preventing it from unravelling. Keep an eye on things to make sure the cord lays parallel and no big gaps/distortions develop.
6) When you get within about 5" of the end, lay the 9" long loop of paracord lengthwise on the FF tube (knot towards the center of the FF tube), then continue wrapping the para cord so as to cover this loop. This loop needs to protrude about 2" at each end.
7) When you get to the end of the FF tube, insert the loose end of paracord through the protruding loop, and then pull on the opposite end of the loop so that the loose end of para cord is pulled under the wrapping and out where the loop is protruding.
8) Cut off any remaining loose ends of paracord, and heat seal as flush as you can with the wrapped surface.
Once the para cord dries, it will tighten down nicely and prevent the wrapping from unraveling. I have wrapped several rifle FF tubes this way, and the wrapping has lasted indefinitely... I have never had one unravel despite years of hard competitive use in the AZ heat. Of all the FF tubes I have ever handled, my paracord wrapping is by far the coolest to hold.
The process is illustrated below:
ParacordWrapFFtube.png

Option B: Water cooling between stages...

water-bottle-120120.jpg?1351325261

Edited by StealthyBlagga
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What ever you do, don't think that one of the JP heat sinks or something similar will help.

Will actually make the problem worse.

They pull the heat out of the barrel great, and I think they probably help the barrel cool quickly.

But they radiate heat like crazy.

I put one on a new build and had to take it off. Even after 25 or 30 rounds it got crazy hot.

After taking it off, no problems.

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Holding the mag well with support hand could be a solution without adding any extra parts:

Don't do that, that is probably the worst solution to a problem. That's like saying that the solution to not having enough lumbar support in your cars driver seat is driving from rear passenger seat.

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Holding the mag well with support hand could be a solution without adding any extra parts:

Don't do that, that is probably the worst solution to a problem. That's like saying that the solution to not having enough lumbar support in your cars driver seat is driving from rear passenger seat.

Funny. And don't forget to take the stock off your shoulder to really complete the look.

Edited by TonytheTiger
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What ever you do, don't think that one of the JP heat sinks or something similar will help.

Will actually make the problem worse.

They pull the heat out of the barrel great, and I think they probably help the barrel cool quickly.

But they radiate heat like crazy.

I put one on a new build and had to take it off. Even after 25 or 30 rounds it got crazy hot.

After taking it off, no problems.

This is interesting. I have found exact opposite to be true even in AZ heat where I shoot the most. What handguard are you using with it? I am using Samson and JP and neither have gotten hot.

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The hand guard is a BCM KMR. It is smaller in dia than most hand guards. The difference between having the JP heat sink on and not having it on was amazing. After a 30 round string or so with it on, got so hot that you could barely stand to hold it.

The material of the hand guard may come into play as well.

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