Cebuano Bruin

I usually end up using a polymer vertical grip on rifles that I expect to heat up in a short amount of time. I've found that even with a relatively heavy barrel / handguard combination, my transitions don't suffer as much as expected. It is important to figure out placement on the rail and what works for you however. Just remember to factor in how long you expect to be holding the rifle up at any given time. If fatigue is a concern, you may want to put the grip a little closer towards your body than normal. I haven't tried it, but if you don't want to use a vertical grip, this might also be an option: http://www.manta.us/products.php#!/TAC-Wrap-Black/p/46731262/category=8233822

Whoops. Posting from mobile internet. Please see post below.

Hello everyone, long time lurker here. I think I finally found a thread where I can contribute! I have tried using the NY1 spring with the coil removed, and strongly recommend against it. In my experience it sometimes fails to push the trigger bar back up from the fired position. This may cause the rear of the trigger bar to skip off or simply not catch the striker's foot when chambering a round. The firing pin safety should prevent the gun from discharging, but even then you end up with a gun that won't fire when you pull the trigger. With the coil-less NY1 spring installed and the firing pin safety removed, I have tried letting the slide go forward on a chamber with a primed empty shell. More than once, I have managed to make the gun set the primer off without touching the trigger. The rear of the trigger bar does pivot up on it's own if you let the slide forward with the trigger held to the rear, so you can prevent the above from happening. (Note: this also means that the gun can fire normally even with a broken trigger spring.) However, it's probably not a good idea to make a habit of keeping your finger on the trigger when chambering your gun! Hope this helps. Miguel