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reloading step priority, what do you do first


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after you inspect the cases you desire to handload, what are the next steps. If the brass has been once fired and is dirty, do you need to tumble it before you decap and resize or should you lube it, decap and resize and then tumble and clean the primer pocket and inside of the case. Do you resize and decap first and then tumble or vice versa

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Here's what I do, regardless of caliber:

1 - Deprime using Lee universal depriming die.

2 - Tumble for about an hour.

3 - Lube and resize (I leave the decapping pin in place so it knocks out anything that may have gotten stuck in the flash hole.

4 - Tumble for about 30 minutes to remove case lube.

5 - Expand and charge using Lee Powder through expander die

6 - Seat/Crimp

7 - Case gauge

I use two single stages presses. A Lee breech lock and RCBS Rockchucker.

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1-Tumble cases

2-I load on a Dillon for most handgun calibers-So I fill the machines primer tubes up and then a couple spares.

3-I make out a series of load sheets. I tape one to the powder measure, one in the bin that catches loaded rounds, and one for each container that loaded rounds will be stored in.

4-As a rule i dont decap in a separate step for pistol calibers. I do this for rifle rounds.

5-verify powder charge to be thrown

6-Have that all important cup of coffee and then the fun begins

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tumble clean, then into he casefeeder for loading. I size and decap in the same process to save time. no need to decap pistol cases for cleaning the pockets before loading. Mine are decapped about 2 seconds before a new primer is seated.

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Deprime with Lee as above, stainless pin, tumble in fine grade walnut with Nu-Finish, hand prime during some of the wonderful TV we are blessed with and store in 2 gallon plastic tubs - from bakery dept at local Kroger store - until needed to load.

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I tumble all in batches, then inspect after they're clean, as it's easier to pick out any problem cases when clean. I don't usually sort 9mm brass, but inspect it from the tubbed pile as I put it into a ready to load bins (big coffee plastic jugs, labeled). From there, when I get ready to load, I'll mist some One Shot into the current Ready to Load bin, shake, mist, shake, then start at #2 below, but loading on a LnL AP.

For checking powder charges, at the start of a session I'll throw a few charges and dump back into the hopper to let the powder settle, then adjust my load and throw ten manually, divide by 10, adjust if need be. Will load up primer tubes as required, and make my 'build sheets' from my Excel loading data sheet - either a fully pre-filled chrono sheet or partial (if I'll be doing more chrono work, still fills in everything else, OAL, powder, charge, bullet etc.) + labels, then check off each load as I go.

1-Tumble cases

2-I load on a Dillon for most handgun calibers-So I fill the machines primer tubes up and then a couple spares.

3-I make out a series of load sheets. I tape one to the powder measure, one in the bin that catches loaded rounds, and one for each container that loaded rounds will be stored in.

4-As a rule i dont decap in a separate step for pistol calibers. I do this for rifle rounds.

5-verify powder charge to be thrown

6-Have that all important cup of coffee and then the fun begins

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1) resize with rcbs carbide die

2) run thru second die to open case mouth

3) clean primer pocket with Hornady 3 stage power brush attachment

4) put in sonic cleaner with setting on high for 30 minutes

5) dump brass on pile of rags and use baby qtips on the inside and regular qtips in the primer pocket and remove all burnt gun powder

6) tumble for 4 hours in treated walnut media with nu-finish

7) dump out brass in sifter and reclean each primer pocket with qtip again to remove any dust

8) stand back and admire 400 rounds of brand new looking brass

9) prime, fill with hp38 , seat your bullet

10) take a well deserved nap

Edited by sniper3
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You know, I sometimes wonder why someone would even consider loading brass that has not at least been cleaned by some method or other. Dirt in your dies is not a good idea and will cause wear as well as possibly scratch up your brass or at least cause a variety of other problems OAL variations included.

So... step one should always be to clean the brass. Tumbling is a good method which has worked for years for many experienced reloaders. There are other more involved methods usually involving liquids of some kind that require drying as part of the process, so I don't personally use that type of cleaning, but some do. The idea is to get the stuff off the brass that can hurt you equipment and prevent the gun from functioning without drama. Tumbling seems to work for that.

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For pistol brass: deprime, tumble, size, prime, bell (bell then prime if on single stage), powder, bullet, crimp. There are some other steps thrown in for rifle brass.

-Jake

Edited by Jakobi
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For pistol brass: deprime, tumble, size, prime, bell (bell then prime if on single stage), powder, bullet, crimp. There are some other steps thrown in for rifle brass.

-Jake

This is exactly what I do.. inspecting each as I go.

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1. Inspect cases

2. Deprime

3. Sort

4. 30 minute tumble in 20/40 corn

5. Pour cases into case collator and reload

I only lube bottleneck cases and have never, in over 40 years, worried about removing the slight residual lube on a case.

Edited by noylj
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