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What bullet is best for Vortex 1x6 JM reticle


wannabe

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I'm interested in this scope, but wrestling with the BDC reticle - would prefer a straight MOA type "ladder". Manual says "...0-3 inch of your aiming point..." with a 200yd zero and 55-77gr bullet traveling at 2700-3000 fps. Here's the way the reticle lines up for my rifle (18" Noveske) and several bullet types (my actual chrono data and using JBM ballistics calculator):

VortexReticleCalcs.jpg

Green is good-to-go. Yellow is within .5in of the "3 in" range. Red means the hash mark is missing the intented range (3,4,5,600 yds) by the number indicated in parens.

So, in my case the 75gr Hornady Match with a 200yd zero is the best fit. I don't have the scope so none of this is range verified. I had expected more rounds to be within the 0-3in range of the hash marks.

From here http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=157295&page=6

So it looks like the Hornady Match 75 Gr at 2760 with a 200 yd zero.

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I use 69gr SMK handloads at right over 2700fps. The lines do not line up "perfectly" with the expected 300, 400,....yard increments, but are damned close according to todays weather conditions via iStrelok. Mine line up at 200 yd zero, 300yds for the first line, 393yds for the second line, and 487yds for the third line. Close enough for 4moa targets IMO.

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Instead if matching the load to the reticle, why not develop the best load for your rifle and match the BDC stadia to it? Takes some work at the range, but not much more than verifieng stadia distances. Then make a BDC range card that might look something like this:

200=zero

First line=299

2nd=388

3rd=490

4th=502

This is just as relevant as 300,400,500 etc scince the targets are never at those exact distances anyway. Knowing what the stadia represents in relation to your target is what's important.

Does this make sense?

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Instead if matching the load to the reticle, why not develop the best load for your rifle and match the BDC stadia to it? Takes some work at the range, but not much more than verifieng stadia distances. Then make a BDC range card that might look something like this:

200=zero

First line=299

2nd=388

3rd=490

4th=502

This is just as relevant as 300,400,500 etc scince the targets are never at those exact distances anyway. Knowing what the stadia represents in relation to your target is what's important.

Does this make sense?

Yes except the 4th would be closer to 602

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Those hash marks line up when the scope is at 6x, correct? What about when it's at 3x, 4x, or 5x? How do you compensate for that? Or do most people only use 1x and 6x?

LIke Outerlimits said you generally only use the BDC on max power. However I do use the scope on all power ranges not just 1 and 6. You are severaly limiting yourself if you do that. Look at the target arrary on the make ready command and then adjust your magnification to give you enough field of view to see the target on either side of the one you are shooting at and enough magnification to clearly see your target.

Pat

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Instead if matching the load to the reticle, why not develop the best load for your rifle and match the BDC stadia to it? Takes some work at the range, but not much more than verifieng stadia distances. Then make a BDC range card that might look something like this:

200=zero

First line=299

2nd=388

3rd=490

4th=502

This is just as relevant as 300,400,500 etc scince the targets are never at those exact distances anyway. Knowing what the stadia represents in relation to your target is what's important.

Does this make sense?

I shoot three long distance loads depending on the target array and wind. I have the strelok reticle diagram printed out for each load, laminated and keep that in my range bag. Once I know the target distances I can refer to the diagram and know my holds from the diagram. The visual of the diagram is quicker and easier for me to use than a chart. If the wind is high on match day then I can run strelok on the ipad or phone and have a current reticle diagram for those conditions. The strelok also allows you to change the magnification power and the reticle changes with it. So if you want to know where the stadia lines are at lower powers now you can.

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Instead if matching the load to the reticle, why not develop the best load for your rifle and match the BDC stadia to it? Takes some work at the range, but not much more than verifieng stadia distances. Then make a BDC range card that might look something like this:

200=zero

First line=299

2nd=388

3rd=490

4th=502

This is just as relevant as 300,400,500 etc scince the targets are never at those exact distances anyway. Knowing what the stadia represents in relation to your target is what's important.

Does this make sense?

I shoot three long distance loads depending on the target array and wind. I have the strelok reticle diagram printed out for each load, laminated and keep that in my range bag. Once I know the target distances I can refer to the diagram and know my holds from the diagram. The visual of the diagram is quicker and easier for me to use than a chart. If the wind is high on match day then I can run strelok on the ipad or phone and have a current reticle diagram for those conditions. The strelok also allows you to change the magnification power and the reticle changes with it. So if you want to know where the stadia lines are at lower powers now you can.

That ap programs pretty cool and would certainly save time at the range. I was impressed with how many reticles it supported. Thanks for sharing that.

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You can also vary the power to match your trajectory, as long as it has more arch than the ideal zero. That is how the Nikon BDC system is DESIGNED to work, and you can apply the technique to any second focal plane reticle. Once you find the zoom that puts the lines in the right place (maybe it's 5-1/4 or whatever) you can just return to that power to use the stadia lines. In the real world though, it doesn't matter whether it correlates with exact yardages since targets are hardly ever at even distances. As long as you know that line 3 is 420 yards instead of 400 (or wherever it ends up), you hold a little high for 453 and a little low for 408. All the distances are adjustments, really.

Tom

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Why not just alter your zero slightly and 'shift the curve' as it were to match more closely? Instead of zeroing at 200 with the crosshairs, zero at 400 with the 400 stadia line. It might alter your 200 yard zero an inch or two but we aren't shooting at gnats.

If a ballistics calculator matches real world performance, zeroing 1.1 inches high at 200 (essentially a 220 yard zero) gives me almost perfect calibration with my 75gr load.

I tune my load for accuracy and velocity and it's quite simple to alter your zero for an acceptable curve to match the BDC.

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I use the 77SMKs and it works great! I push them around 2600 FPS and I run 1 inch high at 200 yards but about spot on the rest of the way. It ends up a little low at 500 Yards but it has never bothered me in a match. You can push the bullet faster to better line up but as others have stated tune the load to the barrel and adjust the zero accordingly.

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Why not just alter your zero slightly and 'shift the curve' as it were to match more closely? Instead of zeroing at 200 with the crosshairs, zero at 400 with the 400 stadia line. It might alter your 200 yard zero an inch or two but we aren't shooting at gnats.

If a ballistics calculator matches real world performance, zeroing 1.1 inches high at 200 (essentially a 220 yard zero) gives me almost perfect calibration with my 75gr load.

I tune my load for accuracy and velocity and it's quite simple to alter your zero for an acceptable curve to match the BDC.

This is a good idea also. For kicks I ran the tables for the load the vortex reticle is calibrated then ran my pet loads in 75 and 55 gr loads respectively. My 75 was only 4" off (higher) than the baseline and 1-2 inches off at the other distances. My 55 was quite a bit farther off but changing my zero to 210 yds put me right on the money and was off by 1" at all but 600 witch was off by 2". Close enough.

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