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It would be easy to swap on and try. With my CZ457, I went with 30moa to make sure I had enough elevation travel, but I used a Razor Gen2 4.5-27x on it with plenty of travel in the scope.

Change to a cantilever mount with built in 20moa like the one from Warne Scope Mounts, or you might be able to change the base on the receiver to one with a built in cant like the 30moa base I use from Area419 on my CZ 457. I would not try to shim the scope mount.

I’ve built using their receivers and handguards and have been very happy with them. Knowing a few guys there, I like how they do things and their attention to details with quality.

Tony is spot on! I actually found it relatively easy to zero the optic, as my aiming point at 50 yards could be seen through the center dot and aligning it in the center was easy.

I was lucky enough to be one of the first people to get hands on the 1-10x Razor. Value between the 1-6x (Gen2) and the 1-10x (Gen3) is going to be perceived and based upon where you typically shoot. If all you shoot is bays, you’ll be hard pressed to see a big advantage of one over the other.... I did not say the 1-10X over the 1-6x, that goes both ways for shorter ranges. The illumination in both is daylight bright, plus some, and shooting the 1-10x on 1x has the reticle shrink to a minimal aspect where you’re effectively shooting it like a red dot. The 1-6x at 1x has heavier reticle lines that do not shrink or disappear, so the advantage there would be if your battery died or you didn’t like shooting with illumination. Inside of 300 yards, you won’t notice a massive difference between the two, depending upon target size. With typical 4moa targets with either scope, you aren’t going to max the magnification. If the target is smaller than 4 moa or harder to see, you’ll be maxing the 1-6x out to use the reticle accurately, but you can shoot the 1-10x on anything from 3x to 10x with an accurate reticle. Past 400 yards, the 1-10x and FFP reticle start to shine more. You don’t have to max the magnification out, but you can zoom in/out before the stage to set a magnification where you’re zoomed in on the targets but still keeping the next target within your field of view so you don’t have to prairie dog off the scope to find the next target. Missouri 3-Gun this year was a good initial test for the 1-10x and I found myself at a little under 4x on one stage that went to 400 yards, around 7-8x on the stage that went to 600 yards, around 6x on another stage with 450ish yards, and lastly running 1x on a hoser paper on other stages. F The Rona match at USSA was a different test for it, as the furthest shot was 50 yards in a bay match that was reminiscent of the old pro series stages. I ran 1x for 80% of the match and 1.5-2.5x for some offhand shots, which effectively made the 1-10x’s bright center dot illumination more like a magnified red dot for those off hand shots. As someone who has SIX Razor 1-6x scopes and ONE Razor 1-10x scope......my opinion is this: If I had to choose ONE scope that would go on every centerfire rifle I own, from .223 to 6.5, it would be the Razor 1-10x! For bay matches, I believe it’s an improvement and is closer to shooting a red dot or magnified red dot on low power. For natural terrain matches, the extra magnification comes in handy, but I have yet to use over 8-9x in a match setting. I’ve used 10x in practice and when zeroing my rifle, but could see using 10x at a match like Fallen Brethren was. I’ve put my request in to buy another Razor 1-10x

Not anymore. Razor Gen3 1-10x weighs almost exactly what the 1-6E weighs, and the magnification ring is smoother and lighter when turning it with the included switchview lever. My comparison of my Razor 1-10 with my six Razor 1-6’s....... the 1-10 might be a hair cleaner glass. As far as FFP: In match use and practice, I find myself dialing what looks best for the targets before the stage, or up to what looks the best when dialing up during a stage. I’ve yet to hit 10x in a match, but have been at 4x, 5x, 6x, 7x, 8x and a little over 8x....I’m sure I’ll use 10x more when we get to shoot in Texas again!

my wife always say i say JUST the wrong things at JUST the wrong times!

It’s like a red dot with a massive window. illumination indoors when dry firing is usually set to 3/11 illumination with overcast outside is usually 6/11 illumination on a bright day is usually 8/11 11/11 is bright enough that if I’m using it, I probably need to change my battery

I’ve been running the Razor 1-10x FFP for a few months now and if I was only allowed ONE scope for everything, it would be it. All of my Razor 1-6’s are seeing very little range time lately, and another Razor 1-10x will be my next scope too.

My recommendation would be to get a box from each, shoot each for feel, groups, and chrono data....then pick one. I'd start with Precision Delta ".40 long" .... price is solid and you can trust that even if you miss chrono by a hair, it's a trusted ammo supplier for USPSA and you won't get dropped to minor.

Worked perfect with both Gen 1 and Gen 2 STI mags

The mag tuning wizardry is either overriding something with how the gun is built, or a sales gimmick. I have multiple friends that shoot for STI and shoot with their mags right out of the package. I shoot my Honcho with MBX mags right out of the package without adjusting or tuning anything. Now, are there small hiccups in manufacturing that can lead to a bad mag, or even a bad batch? Absolutely! I have 22 MBX mags in 140-170mm and two calibers (9/40), and no issues to date in multiple guns. To add to this, when the new Gen 2 STI magazines came out, I wanted to try a dozen of them. No-one had them in stock, so I preordered 6 from Arnzen Arms and ordered 6 from Atlas when he contacted me after I inquired about some he had online. Atlas said they'd sell them to me AT COST, because in his words "I'm trying to sell them to you" after he was frustrated with them. I bought them, because my friend that shoots for STI said he'd get any issues I had lined out. I shot them with both Grams and TTI followers/springs and Dawson basepads with zero issues in two of my Hayes 2011s built on PT and STI frames, they also ran just as well in a Bedell, Tooth and Nail, STI Edge,... Atlas couldn't believe I hadn't done something else with the magazines to make them run. The conversation was cordial, and non-confrontational, but they were already trying to figure out what to do to get the mags to run with their guns, and I told him that if they didn't run and i figured out how to make them run...that I'd tell him how I did it. I didn't have to do anything to make them run tho. The only issue was not fitting a USPSA gauge with Dawson basepads. My MBX mags run the same, and come set up in full capacity while fitting a USPSA gauge and not requiring multiple orders for parts to swap into a parent tube. With a Honcho, you won't need any special mag tuning service. With MBX mags, if something is running wrong with them, MBX will make it right.

Sport and gun dependent if being honest. I run slide ride for 3-gun to have a hooded holster. I'd likely run a frame mount for USPSA with a race holster. Abuse to optics is high with both. Slide ride dots suffer more from impacts back and forth, frame mounted dots suffer more from vibration through the mount. Depending on the dot, some handle one mounting type better than the other.

Running nothing but MBX mags......buuuuuuuuuut have had zero issues using Gen 1 STI and Gen 2 STI mags as well, both with STI guts and Grams/TTI guts. MBX mags just make it easier and I get reloadable 29rd (170mm), 26rd (155mm), and 23rd (140mm).

Have yet to see a sale on the Evo grips. Between filling direct orders and orders to dealers/builders, they're going to have to build a surplus before it happens I believe.

You'd be correct. With the linkless system, you have a squared rear portion of the barrel that has more surface area to lock up when the slide closes forward (when it's important), the squared portion passes through the front of the slide during disassembly and needs clearance. Your comparison is the equivalent of saying that rounds will not stay in a revolver's cylinder when you tested the cylinder removed from the gun and holding it upside down like a blizzard at Dairy Queen.

You can’t be serious.

Having held and shot Atlas Guns, SVIs, STIs, Hayes, Honchos,....the fitment of parts and slide fit on the Honcho is on par with Hayes, Atlas, and SVI. No wobble, moves like it’s on wet glass, and clean finished edges with no tooling marks on the slide or slide cuts. The finish work on the Honchos I’ve held has surpassed any Atlas gun I’ve held to date, is is comparable to my Hayes pistol. Barrel fitment is not comparable, as it’s a linkless system that feels and functions completely differently. Atlas uses PT frames and Evo grips, but opt for different safeties that may alter how the gun feels in the hand from person to person.

I’ve done it with both 6.5 Creedmoor and 6 Creedmoor. Both 22” barrels and Factory Hornady Match ammo using ELD-M and ELD-X bullets. It’s surprisingly easy if you have good glass. Rifle: Rise Armament 1121XR (6 has Proof stainless barrel) Optic: Vortex Razor AMG 6-24x EBR-7b Mount/Bipod: Warne Skyline Actual distance was 1125 yds in Missouri with both calibers, then to 1050yds with 6.5 and past 1200 yds with 6 in Wyoming.

We discussed this as an option when changing how the holsters would be made. The options were to either raise prices and offer discount codes, or keep prices the same and improve quality and finish without offering discount codes. When we discussed it, Adam agreed with many of us that the discount codes artificially lower the prices and it would be better for EVERY customer if the prices remained at current levels with expensive improvements made to the gear instead of only lowering prices for those that knew one of us that was sponsored. This is a policy I have discussed with, and recommended to my other sponsors as well.

https://www.precisiondelta.com/products/ammunition/performance-standard/40s-w-180gr-fmj-long-remanufactured-match-pack/ If not going to load .40, like me, it’s hard to beat! The ammo cans are great to reuse for the calibers I reload too.

Warne Skyline bipod with ARCA compatible head, and using an Area419 ARCALOCK rail on the bottom of my handguard. It was good enough to crush long range at the Vortex/ShootersSource match and is the same setup I'll use for the Vortex Extreme and PRS.

With a frame mounted dot and thumbrest, I'd opt for the Limcat holster Scott Greene is using. I shoot for Weber Tactical, a kydex holster maker.....if I get a frame mount open gun, I'm buying a Limcat holster for it because I know just how absurd it would be to try to make a good open holster that worked with more than just one specific setup of open gun.

If you're looking at a 3-gun pistol, the region of the country you shoot in and the targets/distances you shoot may make the Hyperion more or less enticing. It's a nice pistol, like most higher end 2011's, and shoots well with 9mm. I'd personally want a longer sight radius for the matches that I shoot, as I tend to shoot smaller targets and further away. I fully understand the different sized sights and how it's supposed to replicate a longer sight radius, but I still prefer a longer sight radius. I personally shoot a 3G Honcho and prefer the 5.4" length with irons, and my backup gun is a Hayes 5.4"...my only shorter 2011 has already been sold. As for retention and holsters. I prefer a hooded holster for 3-gun and a non-hooded holster for USPSA. I got both via Weber Tactical, and with full width frames and slides, zero fitment issues and no inserts required. I like the idea of race holsters and they should work well for most, but I still see the release being something that can be hit when unslinging a long gun.

Do you have an accuracy or supply problems with the other bullets you listed? When I was in college, a professor mentioned a common phrase that seems to fit here as well. I mentioned, that my shoulder hurt when I made a certain movement..... he simply said "stop doing that" If the bullets you mentioned work perfect in your gun, why not just stick with them? The PD bullets are less expensive than the MG bullets you mentioned too.