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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About venatic

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Hunting,Reloading,Guns and play a little golf when it's too hot to shoot stuff.
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  1. I bent the rod and it works much better... that was the issue
  2. Bent it just a little not even 90 degrees and it works much better.
  3. I had thought about that as well as it’s seems that would fix the issue possibly but my thought was try a second powder setup and see if I got same results... I did. I still have two more to unbox maybe they will configure better with this rod but doubtful.
  4. The person that put his backward was probably having the same issue I am... I realize that if I rotate it would be straight but then it’s doesn’t work properly. If I rotate any further to the left the powder crank hangs badly on the way up and really bad on the way down almost to the point of binding up.
  5. I have the rod installed the way it shows in the instructions but maybe it would work better if I reversed it 180 and went from the other side?
  6. New 550 on the bench and to get the powder measure crank to function up and down halfway smoothly I have to set it so the failsafe rod is leaning what seems to me as too much to the right. Does this look correct? I loaded some 308 with it leaning like this with my first run with the press today. It was leaning just like this but seemed to work but still bothering me so I set up this additional powder hopper to run 6.5 Creedmoor just to see if it would be the same and it’s exactly the same. My 650 doesn’t lean like this but it also has some offset built into the rod.
  7. Reloder 1200 it’s niche is for bulk on progressives reloading
  8. I am guessing 8000 rounds shooting the heavier side weight wise bullets your barrel throat is starting to get bad.
  9. I would try both your N135 and the XBR 8208 and see how they perform. I use XBR8208 with the 175gr myself but for years H4895 which is similar in burn rate to N135 was used in 308's and 30-06 so you maybe surprised.
  10. After talking to Hornady they said basically the same adjust die to get more camover and see how that went. I was able to go about a 1/2 turn down and with a firm camover all brass so far has measured out well. I admit I was thinking on a progressive a camover might stress the press and cause other issues.
  11. I just got a reply from a custom ammo maker who runs 1050's and he said the same.....he had to grind .004-.006 off his dies to get 100%
  12. I am pretty confident that I cycle fully and I have tried to run longer pieces thru the die a second and third time and it will still be slightly long. It is possible that certain headstamps are more likely to be long or brass that has been run thru a sloppy chamber could also be part of it but that is just part of dealing with mixed misc brass
  13. I am once again processing a large quantity of .223 ammo mainly for 3 Gun. I cleaned and decapped about 10,000 pieces and now I am running it thru a Hornady swager ( new one that runs on the press)to remove primer pocket crimps. I did a few hundred on the swager then sized and primed just to make sure I had it set correctly and all worked fine. Now to the question and this is not a new issue to me just that I have once again tried to solve it but thought there has to be an easier solution. When I run my brass thru the Hornady L-N-L progressive using a Redding FL die set to bottom out on my plate in the machine 80-90% of my brass measures out with good headspace. But there is always some portion of brass that the headspace is .003 to .008 too long. Well in a bolt gun that is OK as you have the camming action to force it closed in most instances. AR's are a whole different animal and we all know the fun of a locked up action. MY solution has been to check each and every piece(slow process) and sort out the longer ones and resize in a single stage press using a SB die I bought but never use except for this. OH and before you say just put the SB die it in the Progressive I have put 3 different SB and standard dies in there and all do about the same...infact the SB die makes is worse as it seems to push more brass into the shoulder area as it squeezes the lower portion of the brass smaller( my theory). My assumption is the flex in the progressive on the more fatigued brass allows this. One interesting thing I noted today was after I sorted out the longer one I installed the SB die in the Forster press bottomed out and it took out about 1/2 the excessive length so I swapped over to the RC press and with a light cam-over It took all to a .004 set back off 0 on the tool. Since there are folks here that process tons of this stuff my question is how do you size to get ALL brass set back to minimum on every piece running progressive presses. Hoping there is a simple easy solution that I am just overlooking or have not considered. Also I have a Dillon 650 but I just load pistol on it. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
  14. I have shot a couple of hundred and just finshed priming another 500. They all went bang and yesterday shot some 1/2 MOA groups with my bolt gun using R1200 and 50gr ZMax bullets which is my 3 Gun load. I did however have som of the Small pistol S&B's to not fire on the first try with my Glock but they all fired after a second or third try so I think it's a tougher primer which if that is the same in the SR primers is a good thing.
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