Nebwake Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 What model might fit best with the least amount of grinding? I kinda guessed I would loose my screw holes that short so glad to know ill have to bust out the epoxy. Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Or grinds easy enough (im guessing you freeze the sorbathane first?) Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louu Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 If you don't mind a little bit of overhang get the Limbsaver brand pad part number 10001. This is mine with about one inch cut off the stock. This is a $600 shotgun, no one at the range is even going to bother looking at it when there is 2k+ Benalli's laying next to it so I really don't care how it looks just as long as it performs as good as the Benalli's... Witch it does... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 I do not like the limbsaver...way to sticky for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 The Kick-eez #KZ-111 pad has the correct screw spacing for a cut-down Stoeger stock. There is basically no extra material on the toe end of the pad, all grinding is on the sides and the top. Sorbothane is tricky to grind. Requires basically a brand new disc on the disc sander to keep from smearing or chunking. Hand blending is done with abrasive strips and WD40 as a wetting agent. We tried the Limbsaver for P3K, and it showed promise at first. They do soak up a lot of recoil, and let the gun move enough for the inertia spring to store energy even if you use a tighter hold. BUT, durability isn't good (they tear easily), they don't make one with the correct screw spacing (so filler blocks are necessary), and they never look good if you grind them. Eventually we went back to the factory pad with kick-eez offered as an upgrade. I really wanted to Limbsaver to work. The 10001 is the right shape(ish) for an uncut stock. But there just isn't a way to make it look professional on a cut down stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Tom always wanted to ask are, your pre ground pads working out that good with NO touch ups needed. Or buy and fit because its necessary for cleaner look any way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 How does the thick rocker kickeez fit? Can you grind it down correctly? Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 I just ordered one from brownells before i noticed moa has the 111 already ground down... Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 How does the thick rocker kickeez fit? Can you grind it down correctly? Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 The rocker is a cool shape and it won't get hung up when you mount the shotgun. The only reason we went with the 111 is for cost-effectiveness and ease of installation. The rocker needs blocks fit into the stock because the screw holes don't line up. This is beyond the abilities of the majority of home gunsmiths. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Both my M3000's wear a Kick Ezz and they are worth every penny IMO. I have had excellent result using a belt sander(pedistal type not hand held). Works best when you lay it on the table and work it, but you cannot see the line you scribed. However, laying it down isn't always possible when doing the final blending. You have to be cautious, one wrong move and that thing will grab and rip it out of your hands. I used the 111 pad that Tom sells on my 2nd gun and even though I shortend the SG 1.25 ", grinding was minimal compared to a non- pre-ground pad. Heck, on my first Kick Ezz fitment, I went to the band saw before I began grinding. The 111 pad Tom carries is likely the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seowitz Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Pat, Tom, Mark, thanks so much for the advice. I think it's close to where I'd like it to be. Now I just need to get better at quads before I go any further with the port and screw anything else up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 PE Kelley; Can we see (pic's) of the rocker pad on your shotgun. Whats the best length of pull that you've found for 3G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogtired Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 You can try going thru these, I found a fit for my Beretta on here: https://kickeezproducts.com/product-category/pre-fit-pads-templates/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 LOP is very personal to the shooters build. 6'4" and 240 has me running a different LOP than say BJ Norris. I like to see the relationship between the shooters nose and their thumb about 2" Photo of Rocker Pad installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 Pat, how did you build up the block inside so you can mount the rocker pad? What did you use for the mounting block? Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 (edited) Roughed up the inside and epoxied in a couple of oak blocks. I have also used a piece of 0.125" aluminum plate cut and fit just flush and screwed it to what's left of the original mounting holes. The drill and tap the plate for the new pad. Edited November 26, 2015 by P.E. Kelley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 The aluminum idea sounds good. I snow goose hunt with my m3k since there is no mag restriction for them in NE so my gun gets pretty wet. I had thought about oak blocks or maybe HDPE blocks but i like the aluminum idea. Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louu Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 When you guys talk about cutting the lifter spring you are talking about this spring correct? How much do I cut off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63expert Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 When you guys talk about cutting the lifter spring you are talking about this spring correct? How much do I cut off? I'm also interested in this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Thanks P.E Kelley , & thanks Nebwake for asking my next ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 I meaning me...don't see a reason to cut the lifter spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63expert Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 I meaning me...don't see a reason to cut the lifter spring. Thank you for the advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Considering the fact that a weakened (worn-out) lifter spring can cause loading malfunctions on guns with this type of lifter setup ( Benelli, Versamax, Stoeger, Franchi, etc), I do not ever deliberately trim this spring, even at customer request. The minimal gain in loading effort is more than offset by potential reliability issues. I have seen guns run with the spring cut, but I have seen many more need a replacement spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 Tom You say using your safety that you cut one coil off the safety spring. Question wont the safety bounce around more do to lack of pressure, I'd like to try this myself mine is stiff, but doable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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