openclassterror Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 (edited) You know Kurt, that is one variable I have not played with enough to have an intelligent answer. All of my experiments have been with balancing gun mass vs bolt mass, bolt mass vs spring tension, overall drag on the reciprocating assembly, Etc. I have been thinking about modifying the recoil sled we used to use to measure the effectiveness of muzzle brakes to measure the relative free recoil of different load/ hull combinations, but it hasn't made it to the top of the list. I know that some 1145 fp loads run reliably in the same shotgun that won't cycle a different brand with the same specs. I am open to anyone's research in this area, as I don't have the time to learn everything I want to know Purely from a weight perspective, the shorter barrel improves the ratio of bolt mass to shotgun mass for lighter loads. But again, it makes less difference than the weight of the shells in your magazine Edited October 13, 2015 by openclassterror Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Kurtm; Would you mind sharing the information you've gathered from testing, and the conclusions you've come to for your ( Base Line) for a reliable, lower recoiling shotgun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Kurt, are you asking for those parameters fired from a Lead Sled, free recoil, your shoulder, Katie Harris's shoulder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Ahhh Mark already has it figured out, he can tell you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocMedic Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 The answer is always lighten bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 The answer is always lighten bolt. NO! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 OH that makes sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seowitz Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 So, I finally got time to open up the port on my M3K. Looks like I went a little bit too far here and found either a hollow spot in the receiver, or maybe the thread cuts for the magazine tube? I was planning on filling it with a little epoxy or something once I get some time to get a strap wrench to take the mag tube off and have a closer look. Any thoughts? Also, Tom someone suggested that I grind down the shell stop so the rounded lip is flattened out as that feels like it's part of my loading issues with shells getting caught up a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Yep, you went a too far and you are into the threads of the magazine tube. I would NOT mess with the Stoeger shell latch. It is not the same as on a Benelli or the others and offers the least resistance to loading of any shell stop. Technique probably needs some work before you mod the gun any more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Something that happens when we cut too far forward is that when loading shells the rims make contact with the receiver in a location that was not available before the cutting began. This can spiral out of control as we continue to cut more receiver away to fix what we have caused in the first place. One quick test for this is. Do the shells load easier when pressed fully against the lifter (giving a straighter shot into the mag tube)? Cutting too much away will have the shells able to enter at a higher angle and create a "pinch point" with the rims contacting the receiver sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 I cut mine that far as well. Didn't cause any issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huch Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 So, I finally got time to open up the port on my M3K. Looks like I went a little bit too far here and found either a hollow spot in the receiver, or maybe the thread cuts for the magazine tube? I was planning on filling it with a little epoxy or something once I get some time to get a strap wrench to take the mag tube off and have a closer look. Any thoughts? Also, Tom someone suggested that I grind down the shell stop so the rounded lip is flattened out as that feels like it's part of my loading issues with shells getting caught up a little. stoeger_M3K_hollow_spot_reciever_web.jpg Look at post 2768 and the next several after that. It talks about the shells catching and a guy wanting to modify his shell catch to make loading smoother. That's rarely the issue, usually they're catching somewhere else and you can round off a few edges and solve your problem. H Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mertbl Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 https://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/1478290.htm Anyone know if this is really a compact stock or just a mistake by numrich? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) https://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/1478290.htm Anyone know if this is really a compact stock or just a mistake by numrich? I see no reason to doubt it. Stoeger now makes a compact version of the M3000.But if you plan to add a KickEzz (which I and many others highly recommend), cutting the stock down is pretty easy and you can add a pre fit Kick Ezz from MOA. Edited October 28, 2015 by Ryan N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeor70 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) Anybody with a 24" and a +5 be kind enough to measure from the front of the reciever to the end of the magazine? I'm needing to stay under 23.5". Edited November 8, 2015 by mikeor70 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Anybody with a 24" and a +5 be kind enough to measure from the front of the reciever to the end of the magazine? I'm needing to stay under 23.5". That's not going to work. The shells would be longer that that by themselves, never mind the spring and tube and such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeor70 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 From what I can see on pics that have been posted, looks like the +5 extends about .5"-1" past the end of the barrel. New "stealth" division rules at my club say magazine can not extend past 23.5" measured from front of the reciever. 9 rounds measures about 21". My +6 measures 26.5" from front of reciever. Wondering if the +5 would be 3" shorter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 You could also go to +4 and ghost load I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeor70 Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Ghost load is always an option. Was really looking for the measurement before I made another mag tube purchase. Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itchy Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Something that happens when we cut too far forward is that when loading shells the rims make contact with the receiver in a location that was not available before the cutting began. This can spiral out of control as we continue to cut more receiver away to fix what we have caused in the first place. One quick test for this is. Do the shells load easier when pressed fully against the lifter (giving a straighter shot into the mag tube)? Cutting too much away will have the shells able to enter at a higher angle and create a "pinch point" with the rims contacting the receiver sides. Thank you for posting this information. Seiichi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Generally speaking, the Stoeger CAN be cut into the magazine tube some distance without causing loading issues, but I am aware of one M3K that has our standard "MAX port" cut and has been hanging up when loading strong hand. I have just heard that it will be coming back for evaluation, so I may be able to add more info on this issue within a few days. We have sent quite a few out with the same cut and no issues, but I can't say for sure what it is hanging up on until I test it personally. I will post results as soon as I discover the cause. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Norman Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 The only issue I have had so far is due entirely to me. I have found that is I don't make sure I get the 2nd or 4th shell fully inserted into the tube and past the catches, it can and has popped out giving me a premature 'Ghost Load'. This sucks as it precludes you loading additional shells until you shoot one out. I know what I do, I just need to practice to keep from doing it again. Of course, in practice it is unlikely to happen, no pressure. Great gun and fantastic work and value. If I could I'd buy a second one just because. I can have two Stoegers for one tricked out Benelli. From a competition point of view, I do not feel at any disadvantage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Im sure its in here somewhere, but I've been searching for 5 mins and have ADD... So What recoil pad works best for the 3000? I need to cut down my LOP quite a bit (I'm 5'6") if that matters. I would like it to look as clean as possible and dont have an issue fitting it a bit if need be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Im sure its in here somewhere, but I've been searching for 5 mins and have ADD... So What recoil pad works best for the 3000? I need to cut down my LOP quite a bit (I'm 5'6") if that matters. I would like it to look as clean as possible and dont have an issue fitting it a bit if need be. Nothing "bolts on" at that length of stock cutting. Buy what you like and glue in some screw pads to match the new pads hole spacing. I am a big fan of the Kickeze Rocker recoil pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOM Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 The rocker pad; Not sure I've seen this on a shotgun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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