seowitz

Did anyone ever figure out which boring bar worked well?

Good thing George finally read the post and figured out you were using a Giraud instead of a WFT. SlvrDragon50, in case you hadn't tried this, I use one of those latex coated (not nitrile, those are too thin of a coating) work glove to handle the cases. With the drill (or motor) vertical with the Tri way pointed up, I'll drop the case in, then press down on the case head with my palm. That keeps the case from spinning (until the glove wears out) and puts all the downward force you need on it. Rips through the case real quick and my fingers don't hurt anymore!

You don't need to wet tumble with pins to get them shiny. I don't use pins and fill my Frankford wet tumbling drum (1 gallon) about 3/4 full with brass, mostly full of COLD water, 1/2 tablespoon of citric acid crystals or Lemishine, 2 tablespoons (1oz) of car wash + wax, run it for 30 min, dump in the toilet, fill/dump out 3-5 times until the suds stop and it comes out clean and bright. You can tumble longer to get more shine/polished cases, but it's pretty damn shiny after an hour of tumbling, the insides of the cases are pretty clean too. Not as clean as with pins, but it's also a lot quicker and easier to do without pins. I pour the wet cases into the media seperator and then shake out as much water as you can (maybe 30 seconds of shaking), then pour the brass on to a big ass dry towel, fold the towel length wise over itself so the brass is in a tube of towel, hold the two ends of the towel with brass in it and tip it side to side so the brass goes from one side of the wrapped up towel to the other a few times. This drys a lot of the brass, keeps water spots from forming too. If it's summer, take the towel outside in the hot sun and put it on the ground and spread the brass out and let it dry. If it's cold out, food dehydrator works great. The car wash + wax gives the brass a good shine, keeps it from discoloring with time and gives a slick finish that seems to be nicer when resizing. Tumbling/rinsing in cold water keeps the brass from turning dark in color. I got the Turtle Wax Super Foaming Car Wash and Wax 128oz jug at Autozone for $7, citric acid crystals on Amazon cheap, for a little less than $3/lb

** THIS ** Also, if you got a wet tumbler, then you'd be using a solution that better cleans and shines the brass (NO pins required) and will not potentially clog up your washer/washer drain with sediment.

Fastest = food dehydrator / reloading company's brass dryer (same things) Cheapest / easiest = leave brass out in the hot sun Cheapest / fastest = leave brass in the car in the hot sun, especially if you have a hatchback for maximum sun exposure

You can have one made by Plugr. The part that goes in the barrel doesn't actually go in the barrel to melt like regular flags and is made of delrin so basically, never will. Best flag you can buy and you can get it custom printed to say whatever you want it to say.

Yep, if you want a PCC you know will run all the time, every time, stop looking and get a JP GMR. If you keep going back to your batshit crazy ex-girlfriend, then the MPX might be for you, cause damn when they run, they recoil like a airsoft gun! But like your batshit crazy ex-girlfriend, you never know when it's going to throw a tantrum, and for how long......

Is that 44 birdshot targets for Stage 3??

New Frontier Armory modular bolt with a CMC 3.5lb single stage, working so far, but only 200ish rounds through this setup. Will updated if I run into problems.

Just depends on how big and how shotgun heavy your stages are. It's awesome for Ironman with an extra pinwheel. The shells don't fall off going prone multiple times in a stage.

I've had one I use for every match when I'm going prone to give me a wider and more stable magazine monopod base. It's worked great.

I have small hands, for reference would fit in a Men's size small. I have a Helix there are no rough edges, even on the small parts of picatinny rail. Everything is very smooth. I could poke my pinky through if I tried, I don't expect that to happen while shooting, and for most people with average sized hands it would be completely impossible. Hope that helps.

I've shot about 5k of these so far in the last year since I started shooting them. The guy that makes them is local so it's easy for me. Love them, they are accurate, cheap and the coating keeps my hands clean when loading. Can't ask for anything more. Been shooting a 147gr FP w/2.9gr of Titegroup out of an 5" M&P 9 Pro getting 131ish power factor. Last chrono had 872/876/873fps.

Pat, Tom, Mark, thanks so much for the advice. I think it's close to where I'd like it to be. Now I just need to get better at quads before I go any further with the port and screw anything else up!

So, I finally got time to open up the port on my M3K. Looks like I went a little bit too far here and found either a hollow spot in the receiver, or maybe the thread cuts for the magazine tube? I was planning on filling it with a little epoxy or something once I get some time to get a strap wrench to take the mag tube off and have a closer look. Any thoughts? Also, Tom someone suggested that I grind down the shell stop so the rounded lip is flattened out as that feels like it's part of my loading issues with shells getting caught up a little.