George

New in my stable, 1984 Yamaha RZ350R. Old bike but fully rebuilt mechanically. Repaint with full stock graphics package is next. Love them 2Smokes, Braaap

OK, I finally got a chance to restore a stage library listing on the server. I made it a catch all multi-gun stage listing. I am still looking through my disk archives for all of the previous content and will upload it as/when I find it. I posted all the stages I could pull together quickly to get things started. If anyone wants to contribute any designs, email them to me - bayarearifle at g mail dot com Multi-Gun Stage Library

I cleaned my server out in 2010 and dumped a lot of old stuff that wasn't getting much traffic. I have the files somewhere and can restore the link as soon as I find the original files. I will look through my archives later this week and see if I can find the files for that directory and do a restore.

Richmond Rod & Gun Club holds 2 club level multi-gun matches per year along with a championship level rifle only match in late July and a championship level shotgun only match in late September. Basic Info here: http://www.richmondhotshots.com Bay Area Rifle Championship Website: http://www.3gunrules.com BARC FB Page: https://www.facebook.com/BayAreaRifleChampionship California Action Shotgun Challenge FB Page: https://www.facebook.com/CalActionSgChallenge

Sorry folks, but after 7 years I did a little cleanup on my server and that destination got the boot by accident. I still have the original files but they need to be reposted again. A little busy now but will post here when I get a chance to restore it. Thx

Th 250's can get up to 150mph plus if the track has a straightaway that lets them rev out fully. Probably doing 140ish tops at that track. Here is a link to all the videos I have posted. Lotsa 2T stuff there along with more recent superbike stuff. http://www.youtube.c...deo&view=videos Enjoy

Just to whet your whistle, here is an on-board video from 2008 of my friend Carlos Neves winning an AFM Formula II race on his 2006 RS250. Most of the rest of the bikes in this race are TZ250's. The RS250 when properly tuned is a formidable racing machine. Part 1: Here Carlos leaves all the other 2T's behind pretty quick Part 2: In second half of race he starts slicing through the 4T bikes started jn a second wave from different class. Infineon Raceway in Sonoma, CA

Also, parts are still available at Rising Sun Cycles in New England and from Accu-Products in Ohio. They specialize in GP machines and can always get stuff the OEM Honda dealers cannot get. Redline PowerSports is also a good GP parts source but usually pricier than the ones above. http://www.redline-ci.com Service intervals are 300 miles on top end piston, wrist pin, circlips and bearing). Bottom end (crank, seals and main bearings) need service at 1200-1300 miles (this means full replace). These intervals are based on full race type use. With proper care and easy riding mode (revs kept under 12.5k and not flogging it) these intervals can be extended to 500+ on topend and 1600+ on lower. Trans usually only needs service once in a great while if at all if it is good shape to start. 300 miles is a lot on a racetrack, usually 3-5 track days minimum.

Don't warmup with static rev constantly, blip throttle continuously after about 20 seconds at static 4-5k revs. Do blips to take revs to about 6-7k, repeat until temp is at or above 50c before riding. Then run easy on revs until it's above 55c before revving it out al the way (12.5k should be considered rev limit especially on an unknown engine condition). BTW, there is no idle mode on these bikes, it will stop running if you close throttle, thats the way they are designed. Use the Maxima for storage procedure fuel run as I mentioned earlier. It is not designed for the revs and stresses these bikes put on the bearings, specifically the rollers in lower end and the piston. If they don't roll the engine is toast. If you do decide to test ride it with the Maxima, limit revs to under 10k, maybe even 9k. But you won't appreciate this bike until it revs past 10k. These GP racers are indeed particular in their care and feeding, but there is nothing else like them in this world. Once you ride one the way it was intended you will never be happy riding anything else fast.

You can run on any good leaded gas 105 octane or better. Use 28:1 premix ratio, Castrol A747 is best choice but hard to find now. Motul 8002T roadrace is best choice 2T oil nowadays. VP gas stations usually carry several options in leaded high octane. Make sure to drain carbs and tank after riding if not using again soon. Also good idea to put a teaspoon of standard motor oil into each sparkplug hole after draining premix, then rotate engine throughly to distribute oil as most race pre-mixes not good for longtime rust prevention. Another good way to properly lube internals after running with race gas is to use a small amount of outboard motor (non-synthetic) premix at 25:1 after draining race mix and run engine for a couple minutes at med low revs to get internals lubed. Don't ride bike using this mixture, lube purposes only. BTW, always warm up to at least 50c temp before riding and don't rev all the way out till engine is fully warmed. Also, if you will only ride it sparingly on street, then make sure to fill cooling system with high quality auto-motive coolant, not anti-freeze. This can be left in for storage to prevent cooling system corrosion. But for track use, always flush coolant with distilled water and run only 100% distilled water, or distilled water with Redline Water Wetter mix as tracks will not allow regular coolant to be used.

My apologies, that link is outdated, 7 years old. I did a house cleaning last year and deleted that location due to lack of interest. Lotsa rifle stage descriptions available at following ink. http://www.3gunrules...ves/match-info/

Very difficult to restore finish on engine cases and cylinders while they are assembled. Best result I have seen was after a complete teardown, wash cases with very hot water and simple green cleaner. Use a stiff bristle toothbrush to scrub and then dry after final hot water rinse and then finish with compressed air to blow all cases passages dry. Make sure any non-removeable steel dowel pins and insert areas are oiled afterwards to prevent rust. Same for cylinders, just make sure to heat dry them ASAP after final rinse in oven at very low temp for 1/2 hour to dry completely, then do a solvent rinse to prevent any rust. If cases are heavily tarnished from aluminum oxidization, using a very fine steel wool or even better use a ScotchBrite pad to polish external surfaces while doing hot water and simple green wash should bring the aluminum finish back again by removing the roughness caused by heavy oxidization pitting. Do not use steel wool or scotch brite pad on internal case areas. BTW, having the original factory Comstar wheels with it greatly increases it's collector value status. Looks like yours is a real gem :-) BTW, BTW, Homestead Florida has a nice racetrack and there are track day providers who run riding events there. There is also a good track in Barber Alabama and the Road Atlanta track in Georgia, all in your neck of the woods (close enuff anyway)

You can also use the cheaper standard Apple Mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter if you get a DVI female to female coupler. Here is an apple discussion forum about that. https://discussions.apple.com/thread/1752411?start=0&tstart=0 The $29 Apple MDP to DVI adapter can be found here. http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB570Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dvi-adapter F-F DVI couplers can be found here. http://www.sfcable.com/30DV-03400.html?c=dvi-adapters

We are pleased to announce the addition of Carbon Arms as a sponsor for the 2012 BARC http://www.carbonarms.us/

We would like to welcome 5.11 Tactical as a new sponsor for the 2012 Bay Area Rifle Championship http://www.511tactical.com/