Farmer

I’ll let you know how things go with the tumbler & pins. I tried a primer pocket brush in a variable speed dremel and it works ok but it’s just another step. I did slip a couple small o-rings onto the brush to keep it from flaring out too much.

I tried some and wasn’t impressed in the 44. While I haven’t personally seen it I have seen pictures of top strap cutting and forcing cone erosion. Supposedly it is high in nitro hence the extra heat. I do have a pretty good load with it in my 22 K-Hornet but it seems kind of peaky and extreme spreads are large. Even in the 410 for which it was designed for, it burns and crisps up hulls much quicker than 296/H110. I haven’t tried MP300 in the 44 yet but it works really good in my 327 FM and 410. It’s a bit slower than 296 and is pretty clean but again it’s more for full house loads.

Thanks for the input fellas. I might have to give one of those side clipping styles a try. Was trying to wrap my head around how they “hung” and the pictures helped. Thanks, Ryan

This place has a pretty wide variety. Even some HD low stretch ones. https://www.suspenderstore.com/

Don’t you think they would get in the way of the holster and mag pouches? The idea of them hooking on the sides where the weight is seems like a good idea though. I do use the Perry style of clips now with my everyday wear pair.

Ahh so that’s why I don’t see any Amish or Hutterian’s in the shooting sports.

Just wondering if anyone wears suspenders with their gun belt? I wear Perry type everyday but getting them over the inner belt and lining up everything else is a pain. Thinking of logger style with buttons or maybe loop type. With diverticulitis it gets painful to keep a belt tight enough to hold everything plus keep my britches up too. Hard to run with your pants & gear down by your knees and nobody wants to see that either!

I took the case feeder off of my loadmaster and hung it on mine, took some fiddling but works pretty good. I did have one of the early kits with the small caliber reducers in the base but any 9mm that was slightly bulged or nicked would hang up. It’s just a tapered aluminum tube so I pressed it out and turned out a properly sized one for 9 & 10mm. You have to watch how the slide spring (spring opening up on ram) is installed otherwise that messes up. I broke off a Qtip and stuck it through the hole to hold the spring a bit tighter. On the shuttle I use just a little motor mica to slick it up. A blast of compressed air every so often helps clear the crud too. I have de-capped and sized 9, 38 special, 357 and 10 mm but do lube the cases even with carbide dies. That shell holder doesn’t provide much holding area plus fits loosely and I had a 357 pull out just so you know it can happen. The swager works pretty good, much faster than my old RCBS unit. Only thing I noticed is that it left a fine brass ring/shaving in the pocket that prevents the pocket gauge from entering. I hope the SS pins will knock them out. The rod that goes into the case for the swager needs a recess in the center otherwise it will mash any flashing down over the flashole kind of closing it. Fairly easy to fix with a carbide ball cutter in a dremel, just remove some of the center of the rod to provide clearance. Sort of like a cup. Other than those little quirks I like it. Even at a leisurely pace you can process allot of brass and I like that it keeps the crud off of my press.

I think Red Dot is a bit too fast for a 250 grain bullet personally. You could make it work but it most likely not perform well. Alliant does show a 240g lswc load at 905 FPS but there you go, it’s 10 grains less bullet and also lead. Must be a reason.

Very nice! Be careful, you may make yourself very busy. I’ve seen lot’s of people on other forums looking for good holsters for their Rugers.

I dropped quite a few over the years. Field & Stream really grinds me with their “best picks”. Let’s just select the most expensive equipment made and give it our number one vote. For a younger person wanting to get into outdoor sports there’s no way that they could afford some of the stuff they push. NRA mag is as bad. I also have to laugh at some of the groups that they call good in some of the tests. I’ve shot as good or better groups at 100 yards with my SuperRedhawk 44 and a red dot.

Sort of makes you wonder if that’s the direction the whole industry will go. Small primers for everything. I’ve got a boatload of LP pistol brass to wear out before that happens.

Read Ben’s book carefully. He mentions that transitions and stupid mistakes or getting rattled eat more time than your draw/first shot.

You may have to check small out of the way gun shops for some of the harder to find items like primers. Sometimes they are overlooked. Other powders can “make do” until things get back in stock. Some shotgun powders like WW Super Field, Alliant American Select, Hodg Universal Clays, Win Super Light, 231 and 244 would get you going In a pinch. May not be ideal but goes bang and pushes lead out the end.

It may be like Hodgdon International Clays. They don’t give metallic load data for it because it spikes quickly. I tried IC in the 45 ACP and it was all over the place. But if you can get WSH to work go for it as it’s in a good burn range. Keep us informed.

H110/296 needs heavy bullets, tight crimp and a strong primer, ie CCI 350 or WWLP to really perform to its full potential. You can use lighter bullets but that’s where you get the unburnt powder and giant fireballs from. I generally don’t load under 240g with it. I have a 208 wad cutter that I load with 231 and it’s very accurate and fun to shoot. The 44 is a very versatile accurate round, if you just remember that for a light plinker use a faster powder and for a true magnum go slower.

Thank you Shadowrider for that information.

Are you getting ALL the lead out of your barrel when starting out? A bronze brush wrapped with some copper chore boy strands will scrape it out easily. Any that’s left in the corners will just tear up the new rounds and start over again. And No, shooting jacketed Won’t magically clean it out! Main reasons for leading are, poor fit, rough bore, poor lube and too high of psi or velocity for the alloy used.

I re-checked mine with the phone yesterday. I noticed it first with my old Motorola flip phone but it is the same with my iPhone. At 3-4 feet away it will give a -1.2 to -3 reading that jumps around. This is only when the phone is either accessing the network or when a call comes in. It seems that when they are at “idle” there’s no interference. I have an older RCBS scale which is the same as the older Pact models. It also raises hell with the auto powder measure. Just some info for you all.

I use AA#9 because it’s almost the same weight as h2o. (Within .1 +-grains per cc) Sorry I didn’t have any sig brass. Buffalo- 12.8g Made by Starline CBC- 12.8 S&B- 12.9 NAT- 13.0 WCC-12.4 Starline-12.8 PMC-12.7 CCI-12.4 FED-13.0 Hornady-13.7 Speer-12.6 So far these are all the ones that I have done. All were sized, primer seated, filled with #9 struck off level and poured into scale pan & weighed.

Take a couple pieces, throw them in a small bottle (pill bottle) with 1/4 tsp of lemishine and water and shake it for a min or two and see what it looks like. I’ve seen some crazy results lately and wonder if it’s the water. One fellow was bitching about his new sonic cleaner that the tank was rusting. Really? Think about that. He showed it and the water looked like something that came from a swamp. It was loaded with iron and whatever. Not saying yours is that bad but it’s something we need to keep an eye on with all the different alloys that the company’s are using nowadays.

Are the flash holes normal size? If they are too small it can sometimes push the primer back more even on a light load. I would also take one of those and reload it to see if it does the same thing.

^^^this. And the ball bearing suggestion. I know my Loadmaster isn’t the newest & coolest but I can control how fast the shell plate starts and stops to prevent spillage. Can’t say that about the dribbling powder measure though.

Thanks for the example/explanation, helps to know the “little things” for improvement.