George16

Beautiful pistols! yeah, the stock TSO/CM thumb rests are too small for my liking. Yes, it’s Advance Ratio thumb rest. Don’t know how I typed reflex instead of ratio lol.

I second the Lee universal decapping die. Buy the hardened steel decapping pins in case the original gets bent or broken.

No, it fits right on. The TSO and czechmate uses the same 60* dovetail/slide racker. Mine is on the left side too. I also installed an Advanced Reflex thumb rest which is better than the stock one. Here’s the current setup: Swapping optics between the TSO and Czechmate.

Nick, thank you. 1. You don’t have to do anything on the elevation screw. Just loosen the two set screws that hold the rear sight to the slide. 2. No need to heat the set screws. Just make sure you are using the correct Allen wrench. The screws require a 2mm Allen wrench. It doesn’t matter which way you drift it out. I use a little hammer when I drifted mine. 3. Use a gun block or anything hard but doesn’t scratch the slide when you’re drifting out the sight. Use a brass punch and it helps to wrap the tip with electrical tape to prevent it from scratching the sight. 4. I’m using a slide racket from shooters connection. Slide Racker

John, when you said, “ You people do realize the recoil spring is chosen for proper ejection and controlling the slide movement with a specific recoil impulse/power factor?”, you were pretty much addressing everyone in this thread which include me. I know now we had a discussion about this two days ago. You asked me why I dropped my recoil spring to 10#. You said the stock was 14# and “ that was a 28% reduction”. I remember telling you that I shoot 128 PF mouse fart reloads. CGWs guideline on recoil spring choice by measuring the ejection of about 6-8 feet away is very good for a defensive pistol imo. However, that will not be my choice for shooting competition like USPSA where I have to reacquire the target as quickly as possible. I also have to factor in recoil mitigation to keep the pistol shooting as flat as it can be without any muzzle dip. In addition to that, it has to be tailored to the loads I’m shooting to maximize the benefits which led me to using the 10# rds after testing 11, 13, 14# etc springs. OP, I’m using CGWs 11# hammer spring, extended firing pin, reduced firing pin spring, floating trigger and able to light off all primers I had use so far. These includeWinchester, CCI, Remington and fioochi. Just make sure you seat the primers really good. Majority of light strikes are caused by high primers not seated deep enough.

Didn’t realize you’re that old Jack ??

Yes I do realize recoil spring is chosen for proper ejection and controlling slide movement etc. However, you do realize that I’m shooting my reloads which I posted above. The gun only gets beat up long term if I’m using full power loads which I’m not. My reloads are around 128 PF for USPSA Production Minor. Shoots flats and gets me back on target quickly and less felt recoil.

Glad to hear you got it all sorted out ?.

I use brake parts cleaner on my shadow 2 frame and slide. I remove the barrel and grips then blast it with brake parts cleaner and blow it with my air compressor. After that, I wipe it down to remove whatever leftover dirt and grime and then lube the parts that needed lubrication.

10# recoil springs with my 124 Gr RMR TCFP 128 PF mouse fart reloads.

Yes, I’m shooting mouse fart reloads for USPSA production minor. It’s around 128pf on the chrono. Less felt recoil and gets me back in target quicker. I have tried 11, 13, 15 and 16# springs and I like how the 10# felt when I shoot compared to the other springs.

Fitting the disco wasn’t hard at all. It was my first time too. Just have a lot of patience installing/removing/reinstalling the parts during the fitting process. It’s all worth it after you’re done. Mark the area you’re going to remove with a sharpie and remove material in small increments and test fit after each removal step. plan at least a few hours or so for the whole firing process. Go slow and be patient. If in doubt, stop and ask questions before you proceed. Good luck.

I used professor Atlas’ polishing tutorial here in the forums when I polished my shadow 2. Along with with installation of the 11.5# hammer spring, reduced power firing pin spring, extended firing pin, reduced power trigger pin spring, floating trigger pin, 10# recoil spring, my DA is 5# 4.3 ozs while SA is 1# 9.9 ozs. After all these, it was further enhanced by installing the T3 disco which I fitted. Trigger is crisp, no creep and reset is very short. It also lights off CCI, Winchester, and all other primers I have used.

Full size.

I had been using that with my factory shadow 2 mags and mecgar 17 rd mag tubes with no over insertion problems at all. I like them a lot because it doesn’t have the extended front lip that messes me up when I grab a mag from my belt.

Its easy to do it. Also install Cajun’s floating trigger pin while you’re at it.

Crap. Didn’t even notice that.

Here’s the caliber conversion kit chart from Dillon for the 650. It list everything you need including which powder funnel. Dillon XL 650 Caliber conversion chart

CZ competition or CGW hammer, T1 or T3 disco, CGW 11.5# hammer spring. Polish the internals using kneeling atlas’ tutorial. I got my shadow 2’s DA down to 5# 4.3 oz, SA is 1# 9.9 oz.

If I were you, I’ll shoot it on a bench rest or bag to make sure it’s not the shooter. This way, you re certain it’s the sight that needs to be adjusted. Then I put a drop of oil and drift it using your brass punch and hammer. I drifted mine after bench firing it first to make sure it was the gun and not me making the gun shoot to the right of the POI. You just need to tap it a little bit harder.

Another vote for .223. I just started buying all the necessary tools and equipment for .reloading .223. I had been reloading9mm , 45 ACP and .308. Since I have more 5.56/.223 rifles than .308 and I shoot them more, I decided to start reloading. I’ll be using H335 with Hornady 55 Gr FMJ bullets and WSR primers.

Go with the 6 MOA. I’m using a vortex Viper 6 MOA on my TSO and I like it so far.

Another vote for high primers. I’m using 11.5 # CGW hammer spring, extendended firing pin with reduced power firing pin spring and 10# recoil spring and no trouble with CCI, Winchester or federal primers on my reloads using my Dillon 550. No problems with factory ammo too.

Boltdepot.com. I buy assortment of screws from them for my RC trucks, helis and planes.

Yes.