Snausages32

I bought some of those same 7/8 Fiocchi slugs, and in my M3K, they won't cycle. They eject, but my shotgun turns into a bolt action shotgun. Have you tried using regular 1oz slugs? With mine, the 1oz slugs work perfect.

I saw that, and the $275 price is half of what I paid for my M3K! It looks pretty cool, but with that price, it's not likely that I'll go for it - although it would very likely solve my wrist problem. As far as bolting anything to the factory handguard... I'm not totally sure that any screw or bolt (should I find something thin enough to fit under the tube) wouldn't get ripped right off due to the high recoil energy of shotguns - same goes for any sort of adhesive. Has anyone tried adding anything like this to a stock handguard before?

Hey everyone, I've been using my M3K for years, but have recently messed up my left wrist to the point where using a shotgun for more than 15-20 seconds causes some real pain (it's the twisting of the wrist). I'm wondering if it would be possible to install some sort of vertical foregrip on the handguard... Thoughts? Ideas? Thanks

Like pretty much everything on this forum, it comes down to personal preference. For 3 gun, once you have your belt set up the way you like it, you're likely not going to change where you have things. The beauty of the my safariland belt, is on non-shotgun stages, I can quickly unclip those holders and save myself the weight. That's the thing with 3 gun - the constant changes and versatility you need. You'll have a tough time convincing me to go with anything else because I can so quickly and easily switch my setup based on what stage I'm at. Stages where I use all 3, I'm all set. Stages where you use 1 or 2, you're still all set and you save the weight / comfort. What I'm saying is, you'll put a ELS thing on your back for your extra rifle mag (or whatever wherever)... and on stages you don't need it, you won't hook it up - but that setup will still be there. You're not going to move that thing again (likely), but it's there if/when you need it - and it's super quick to remove what it holds. That ELS system is amazing

No experience with the J Kenny, but I own and use the lightning lifter from MOA, and it is amazing - an honest game changer. After you break it in a bit - lots of dry loading - haven't had a single issue (be sure to use a strong spring - one that isn't cut too short). One of the ROs where I shoot 3 gun is an actual, real life, pro, and the look on his face when I ran my Stoeger dry and just started loading... priceless.

What about a regular Shadow2, but done over by Cajun Gunworks vs a stock orange? I've been considering both... Thoughts there?

I'll add this about an adjustable gas block: When everything is fully assembled, and you take it to the range for the first time - make sure you bring the allen key that comes with that gas block. You'll want to load your fist couple magazines with only 2 rounds. The first, to make sure it has enough gas to cycle the next round, and the second round to make sure there's enough gas to lock the bolt back on an empty mag. You'll need to adjust it (adjustable gas block) and increase or decrease the gas depending on what's going on. Everything works perfectly? Reduce the gas until it doesn't. Doesn't cycle? Increase the gas until it does. To add to "reliability" once you find that sweet spot - turn it 1 more click to give it a tiny bit more gas, and you're done. Then just run some rounds to make sure it's all set and there's no gas issues. About the lightweight AR thing above: mine weighs in just under 6.5 pounds with an optic (not loaded), and it's fun to shoot. Don't get caught up in those "fancy" uppers and lowers with the cutouts - they actually weigh more than standard ones (I used Aero). They're thicker to compensate the lack of strength from the cutouts. If this is for competition, I'd absolutely recommend at 15" handguard and a great trigger. Handguards are largely cosmetic, and triggers are 100% personal preference (although I love my Timney 3 pound single stage). A great muzzle brake will make a HUGE difference - https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/ar-15-muzzle-brake-shootout-3/

I went with the Brownells light weight BCG (nickel boron coat), SLR 7 adjustable gas block, and the JP Silent Capture Spring (using the white spring from the kit), and it works great. If I were to do it again, I'd go with the 18" rifle length fluted BA 223 wylde instead of the 16" mid-length , but it puts a hole in a hole at 100 yards, so I can't really complain here. It's an amazing combo, and you'll be happy with whatever you go with. It's a HUGE improvement over anything mil-spec. Add a good muzzle brake and you'll be done.

For the past couple years, I've shot with a guy who HAD an XRAIL, and for him (my only experience with it) it was garbage. Locked up and either double fed or refused to feed, constantly - non-stop jams. I say HAD because he threw it out mid match one time. Watched him deal with it for 2 years every month, and last year he just tossed it (it was hilarious). When it worked, it was a sweet piece of shotgun technology, but unfortunately that was rather rare. If I remember right, it was pretty heavy when loaded too.

I had the same issue with the same gun and same trigger kit - also installed by a qualified gunsmith. I brought it back to him after several hundred rounds, and about 5% with light strikes... he took it apart, and said he installed a stronger trigger return spring. I'm still not 100% positive that was the issue, but it fixed it. It's been perfect since with all types of ammo. Consider trying that maybe? Yes, I know it doesn't make sense.

What are you talking about? The mounted one literally just slides off

I have the same Caldwell one too, and it works great. Catches 99.9% of the brass, and the only downside is the cost of those extra metal connectors you put on your pic rail. 1 catcher is all you need and it just slides on to whatever rifle you're using. After several years, hot brass has burnt 2 small holes in the netting (I'm talking about 1 square centimeter), and little duct tape squares on both sides have fixed it completely. A great product! Highly recommended.

I used the full trigger kit and the gunsmith fit barrel. Night and day difference - so much better. I was ready to give up and get rid of my 9L Core

I use the taran tactical ones on my gen1 core too. They work great, no complaints.

I think it's only for the 2.0

If you get one of those lifters (MOA), it'll change your 3 gun game forever, in the best way. I have one on my stoeger, and it's amazing.

The white one is the lightest

I have their 16" one, and LOVE IT. If I were to do it again, I'd spend the little extra and get the 18" fluted one instead. It'll put a hole in a hole at 100 yards, I've been VERY impressed by it.

Trigger return spring was something to do with the firing pin not getting a full swing, it didn't reset all the way, just 98% of the way. Whatever it was, getting a stronger spring there fixed it for me. M&P Pro Core 9L.

Trigger return spring

From what I've read, and experienced, this is fairly common. The fix for me was a stronger spring. Trigger is amazing, and it breaks right at 2 pounds. I love it.

Maybe my old thread will be of help to you: I tried the triggertech diamond and HATED IT. Many others love it. First you'll want to figure out if you want a single stage or 2 stage. The rest is preference. You can't tell me that Jerry Miculek won't destroy everyone here with a generic mil-spec trigger... I put my timney competition 3 pound trigger back in, and love it so much more than I thought I did. I'm not looking for a new trigger any more.

It's 100% personal preference. Where I shoot 3 gun, 99% of it is under 40 yards - only 1 stage area has the ability to go out to 100 yards, and that's max. It depends on how far you're shooting really. If I were doing 400+ yard stages, I'd go 18" all the way. Anything else is just preference. For the ease of legality, 16" is a no brainer, especially if you don't want something permanently welded to the end. A 2" group at 100 yards is just fine if you're shooting 10 yards with it most of the time. See what I'm getting at? Every person will have a different need depending on what they do with it. Your AR is a tool, just like any saw. If you're cutting pine, anything will work. If you're cutting steel, then you need something special. I'm going to agree with most and say take your money and put it in a lighter bolt carrier group and adjustable gas block. You'll notice that difference most of all, along with a good brake and you'll be set. But again, there is no 1 right answer. All that said, I have a 16" 223 wylde ballistic advantage barrel and I love it.

Dawson precision makes them for the CORE. I went with the gunsmith fit, and it is WAY better. I highly recommend their flat face trigger too.

To get that bolt off, you need to heat it up. A torch might be a bit much... my wife's hairdryer did the trick. I have the magpul stock with the MOA adapter, and LOVE IT.