DesertTortoise

I got a harbor freight click type wrench for barrel nut install and a wheeler click type inch pound driver for small parts. I've been happy with both of these.

I don't think storing or transporting in ammo cans is bad for the ammo. Like others I use the 100 round boxes mostly to keep a good count of what's on hand for a match. I will sometimes use a zippered bag for loose ammo since ammo cans are a bit bulky to take to range. I keep various small amounts of loose ammo in labeled zip lock bags

Sig 17 Rd with Springer 140 base (23 Rd) 4.1 oz Sig 17 Rd stock 2.9 oz Sig 21 rd stock 3.6 oz

I probably wouldn't use any of those except for up close (less than 100yards). I bet you can find a different combination that works better with your gun. I would try for at least 2 MOA. Maybe try again with less wind? I went with a 55 grain load that gets hits out to 200 and doesn't make the dot move at all (55 grain @ 2800 fps)

Most guys are using a Dawson fiber optic front with a black rear. Same goes for USPSA

It's only compatible between the x five and x carry I can't be sure, but I think the newest x fives may be different since they are Delta point pro vs sig Romeo 1 cut Edit to add: any and all sig 320 slides will fit your 320 x five lower

The 550 is a great press. I occasionally wish I had a 650 with all the case & bullet feeders, but I don't shoot enough to need that The strong mount, and bin systems are must have items! The 550 is very ergonomic and you can get in a good stride to load 100 rds per 10 minutes. Although you can't keep that up forever. The other must have is LIGHT! I have a shop light on the bench, a oversized LED light on the ceiling, and the "skylight" accessory on the press There are a few things you may want over time to organize your space but they are just nice to have There are a variety of things I read on here to reduce stoppages. I use a little safety pin on the primer chute and graphite as a dry lube where the primer slide assembly moves. I keep a shaving cream brush handy on the bench to brush of debris as needed.

CZ also has an oem 21 round mag available for ~$35 if you want to save a bit

Here is my notes for 4.4 grains titegroup, 180 coated lead @ 1.135 COAL 40 180 blue 4.37 Tg @ 1.135.pdf

I don't think that will work on the RX either, X5 type only Sig's pistol optics lineup is very confusing

Breathing usually shows up as vertical dispersion on the target. I'd say it's the least important of the fundamentals of marksmanship. Try it out, Get in a good firing position and watch the sights move up and down as you breath. Hold your breath too long and watch the sights wobble. You should be shooting in a pause when the sights settle (either on the inhale or, more common, the exhale)

Trigger control would only be an issue if you are smashing the trigger to the point that sights are off the target when the rifle fires. Typical 3 gun target are pretty forgiving size wise. A 50 yard zero doesn't require a chrono or hold overs until you are past 250 yards Remember the fundamentals of rifle marksmanship are: stable body position (natural point of aim), sight alignment, trigger, and breathing Practice these in dry fire and your results are certain to improve Also, attending an "Appleseed" rifle clinic will help you learn (or relearn / reinforce) the fundamentals.

Can you give a little more info or some self diagnosis? In general, you need a good zero (zero at 50 yards, confirm at 200 if you can) and a stable position. Pulling the trigger without a great sight picture makes you frustrated and then you keep missing. So spending the extra time getting a stable position and getting sights on target pays off. (Example: If you are shooting off a wobbly barricade, you can brace it with your body). To get repetitions, you can dry fire at a reduced size target using positions that you'll see in a match.

Hayes custom has a good video discussing the rock island https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=%23&ved=2ahUKEwjPlpWnitvhAhWPsJ4KHVr0ATYQwqsBMAJ6BAgGEAo&usg=AOvVaw0VTJzWxrN8ZFOD4xbU2nov I was in your same position and bought a used tanfoglio limited .40 and it's been great for me. I would have also bought an edge if the price was right. There is less support out there for CZ / Tanfo / RIA. Less custom parts, less gunsmith expertise, less guys on the range to loan you a magazine, etc. So that's something to consider.

Clean with wine, lube with olive oil

Italian guns need to be dunked in red wine to run right

Is it $50 for the first gun or $50 for each gun?

The wide-long safariland GLS should fit it

https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2016/08/logan-metesh/holy-grail-1911s-singer-1911a1/ That pistol may be worth $$$$. I'd have it appraised, not chopped Edit: you made me sad. Your picture is from an auction site

Some states require a 6" barrel for hunting

I have handled the shadow 2 at the store... It feels much heavier near the muzzle and the trigger is almost as nice right out of the box as my SP01 with Cajun parts. For me, if you want to save a little bit of money, get the SP01, change parts, and polish all the bits, but if you want it really nice without extra work, get the shadow 2.

Does it lock back on an empty mag when you cycle by hand ?

There is a magwell, short brass grips and basepads on the classifieds right now (Not my sale)

I only have experience with the Nordic brand, so I can't compare between brands

Its nice to be able to load an additional 4 rounds after the start signal as an option. In tac optics, that is allowed as far as I know