DesertTortoise

15.5 is plenty long (will cover past a rifle length gas block). Odin makes very nice, lightweight handguards. You need a large wrench to install that is available on their site or on Amazon.

Unless you have a shadow already (no firing pin block) you won't be able to drop a shadow slide on without deleting the lifter in your sear cage. Also, it won't be production legal at that point (dumb, but that's the rules). You can add a Cajun 10x bushing if you want the same potential accuracy upgrade as the accushadow. I would just do sights, springs, and polish everything to start with.

This is what it would look like with my 6.5 load

I would download the strelok app and enter your data. It will tell you what the ranges for your reticle are Here is mine for the JM-1 reticle

Check that you have enough spring tension on the sear

Here is the table for a 36 yard zero with my 3 gun load (on the slow side)

He gave a great step by step guide

If they have a starting load in the book that's the best place to start. Looking at the predicted velocity on those charts, they are all under minor power factor so you should be able to work up and find a good load. Using this chart for N320, I would load 5 each and shoot them at 25 yards over a Chronograph. I'd go up by 0.1 grains since the difference between starting and max is so narrow. 3.9 (starting load, 1017 fps / 126 power factor) 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 (max load, 1096 fps / 135 power factor) You can see the starting load is 10% less than max 4.3-.43=3.87 -- rounded up to 3.9. I'm sure they have a more scientific way of determining starting loads based on burn rate etc but it is usually about 10%.

Regarding dropping powder, I'd pick either method of dispensing but I'd weigh each one to be sure it's an accurate test.

Normally you start at least 10% below max load and work up. But If you are loading to a certain power factor (say 130-135) you may not even come close to the book max load. You can first load dummy rounds without powder or primer to check that your overall length fits the magazines, chamber and dry cycles in the pistol. You can go up .2 grains at a time, checking for signs of pressure before you move up. Five or ten rounds of each should be plenty. Once you find a load that makes power factor and seems reliable / accurate in your gun, you can load 100 or more and tune recoil springs. Not all bullet weights / profiles work the same in every gun so I'd recommend against buying in bulk before you are sure.

I believe it is in the manual to run CCI mini mags

Some 1:7 barrels don't like short 55 grain bullets. Will it shoot commercial ammo of that weight accurately?

Henning and TTI are equally good. I prefer Henning, but only because I like the rest of his product line and want to support. Springer extensions are not great. You have to cut a notch on the bottom of the mag and use an Allen key to install / remove.

I'm a fan of the M&P 15/22 because of the collapsing stock, light weight, reliability, and AR trigger compatability

I would add a PCC division for a few reasons: 1) they are very popular, even with folks who do not compete 2) can be used where rifle calibers are restricted based on range rules Based on the target size and distance limits, I don't see a need for keeping magnified and non magnified rifle optics in different divisions. In fact the non magnified optic may offer a competitive advantage. PCC Tactical Rifle Open

I agree on the Dillon 550. Including getting everything ready (loading primer tubes, changing tool heads, etc) you can easily load 600 rounds in 2-3 hours at a slow pace.

With that budget, I would buy an X5 legion and bolt the deltapoint pro on it. You'd have some cash left for magazines and maybe a grey guns trigger down the road.

You can delete the firing pin block in your sear cage with a spacer, but you'd need two complete sear cages to switch back and forth

Thanks I'll check that out

I am looking to purchase shooting timers that can store 8 par times. I would like be able to save an entire course of fire for a law enforcement qualification. Which timer has the ability to store the most part times?

QD cups and a VTAC style two point for the win. If you are going to be carrying it for a long time, the padded sling is worth it.

Nice work. I like the top one. If there a different color scheme between the two or is it the lighting ?

The Omega 300 is in between the sandman S and K for length and weight and is "hearing safe"

Just watched a video on the Frankford arsenal pile-driver. Mounts on the wall like a can crusher. I have used collet (on press), hammer inertial, and a pliers type and would give this new one a try if I had to pull a bunch. Collet didn't work well at all and the pliers type crushes pistol bullets easily. Hammer takes forever.

The only thing I can think of is less neck tension and the bolt slamming forward like a kinetic hammer type bullet puller. My uneducated guess