johnbu

Aside from needing to fix the nasty rough finish inside the holes, the amount of work on cz and tanfo is very similar. A friend went cz from tanfo (similar to another person's journey). He said the time / parts needed to polish and tune are very close. triggers are VERY close too, but he runs his light. 4.5da/2sa, and is winchester or softer. Fyi, he uses an unmodified 650 and seats the winchesters 0.008 deep.

The PD grips needed a change to my weak hand location. Moving it slightly back, so the meat of the palm edge is behind the swell, gives more leverage and control. I also ground the thumb access and shortened the top of the left grip. oh, i also put in time stipling to make them rougher.

Yes, that is the part. Were you able to polish (wink wink), polish that part. ALL of it. To mirror bright. ESPECIALLY the rod, inside the hole, the spring and the hole in the frame. Compressing the "head" of that part normally has a feel like using a zipper. Removing that "zipper feel" makes the trigger much smoother.

"K" series is large frame, i think you are small frame and wouldn't be able to use them.

The PD Optimized springs (trigger return, sear) will help reduce trigger force without impacting ignition reliability. The Optimized firing pin return spring is lighter than the extreme and i strongly recommend it. It allows more force to hit the primers. Hammer springs are tricky. Before you start reducing spring power, first ensure your ammo passes "plunk test". Search for it here if unfamiliar. Then make sure the slide easily goes into battery and locks tight without hesitation. I recommend 1000 rounds fired to smooth out the gun (because you can't polish). Then put in the PD firing pin return spring and 15.5 or 14# hammer spring (buy both, try them both). They will greatly reduce or eliminate the force stack at the end of the DA stroke. Because you can't legally use a bolo, you can trim off one full coil from the plunger spring. You can also buy reduced power springs from Henning. That will reduce trigger pull slightly. Bolo works best with full power plunger spring, so bolo users.... Don't Trim!

So, taking my own advice and set up a camera on my weakness.... reloads. Here i am, cold going flat out full speed. Which sounds good....but, it didn't work. Nor did the following attempts. doh!! So, i did a dozen or more at slow speed (off camera) and redid it at 80-% or so. That's a bit better, but still rough around the edges. Also did some reloads and "6 shots" on targets to see how well the gun is held steady.

Basically, yes. i believe the extreme comes with the "meduim" spring set and the normal stock has a stronger one. But, tanfo changes things so often, who knows for sure? I would definitely use PD springs if at all possible.

I was lucky and found a new s2 top on gunbroker at a decent price. Not the crazy high eaa price!

I use it to force myself to DF practice. Sadly, i don't make entries daily (as i should for best improvement). A "theoretical" suggestion. Write down your match stats. Evaluate where you lost HF. Accuracy? Speed? Or ?? Make a practice plan to address the worst aspect of that weakness. Track your actual practice of those drills, in the diary .... daily. Compare the next match performance to the last. Did that weakness show up again, or was the next one down the list now up? (And in full disclosure, i don't do this.... but i think i will start. But next matches won't be until spring! ) Oh, i too am "old, fat and slow", but the 2nd half of this year i decided to be less slow. i threw caution to the wind and CHOSE to run matches at the fastest speed that i could. i dropped 20-30 seconds off a typical match. Yea! But have 2-4 mikes per match (boo!). So now I'm working to improve accuracy AT THE SAME SPEED. just making and writing a goal helps. At least it helped me. Good luck!

I use brute force and ignorance.... Well, and needle nose pliers. Both normal and "reverse" that spread as you squeeze. measure, bend, test, repeat . I don't do it much, so no tricks up my sleeve, sorry!

I can think of more than 3!

I suspect the mag lips are too narrow. maybe 0.005" wider would help get the nose up. You could also try wolff +10% mag springs to try and get the rounds to present higher. Q: 18# hammer spring.... why? are you using it to limit slide rearward speed?

Ipsc, you NEED to keep the "medium" spring to be legal. The extreme trigger bar has chrome plating and should be slicker than the factory bar. After a thousand rounds or so, you should be able to use the "light" hammer and firing pin return spring. I am not sure, but doubt bolo is ipsc legal. Sadly, you can't polish (legally). If you could ... shining up the pins and holes that the hammer, strut and interruptor use would be helpful. Also polishing the HOLE in the frame the hammer spring goes in and the HOLE the plunger (that lifts the trigger bar) goes in would help.

Anything under 1.5 is too low (especially for transfer to weak hand only etc). Anything over about 3 is too high. Triggers inbetween are good with smoothness, crispness and predictable behavior determining good, better and best. Mine run just under 2 in sa.

Fyi - strong hand only draw should be very nearly identical to normal 2 hand draw. Your 2.7 to 2.3 sec draw time is (hopefully) much slower than your normal draw. Work the strong hand only fry fire drill as in Anderson's book. 10 slow no time, 10 at 0.2 slower than par, 10 at 0.1 slower, 10 at par, 10 at 0.1 faster than par. do that whole thing at the start, middle and end of your daily DF routine for 2-3 weeks (dropping par when you hit it easily). That should get you to 1.2 draw in df. Then work strong hand 3 target transition (or Bill) drills to get the gun on track with recoil.

Have been focused on reload and why it is such a bother. I'm finding my mag hand is moving too fast and not getting a consistent grasp on the new mag. so, much repetitions at slow speed to groove the motion. We had a nice day, so did a couple hundred rounds of live fire. started with transition drills at 10 yds. Then shooting on the move from 15 to 10 yds. Then 20 to 10 yds. Then 20 yd transition drills. Then moved out to 50 yds freestyle. Then 35 yds strong hand only then 20yds weak hand only. Then some 20 yd draw, reload to weak hand only. Some 20 yd upper A zone transitions. Ended with the last 25 rounds doing draw - 1 shot drills pushing the fastest speed that stayed in the A zone. Sadly, a visit to the Dr ... yep weak elbow tendonitis is acting up (again).

Yeah, they have the gun world equivalent to the Keebler Elves! pretty much magic.

The older style mags had steel lock plates. i use them as DF practice mags.... and they break too after landing on concrete too often.

I still laugh about your crazy journey with all those changes! How the heck are you "almost" a GM ?? I'd be lucky to be a D shooter after all that!

What a pile of steaming..... Must change pw... did that. Even though on android it was a chore. Now the new pw doesn't work, old pw doesn't work, pw reset "member number" input won't accept ( or show numbers), and it says no email on file. I click on wisconsin clubs on the map and a club in Louisiana shows up! This is a bad joke, not a business

"titan hammer safety fitting" or "Safety not engaging" Those two will get you 99% of your answers or more on what and why the safety isn't working and how to fix it. or "bolo trigger bar" - to answer all your questions on the gen 1 / gen 2 In general, think about what you are having problem with. search the key words. Things like "bolo AND safety" or "bolo AND fitting" when you have questions on it. I don't mean to be smarmy or a smartass, but these topics have been covered IN DEPTH and many times over. There are video links of how to do detail strips and assembly of the guns, how to do fine polishing, how to fit the 1 piece sear to the titan hammer, how to fit and tune the bolo, how to increase hammer DA stroke with the bolo, etc etc. Joe Wilson from PD also posted up about the changes to the trigger bar made by Tanfo and what exactly is don't to make the bolo work with both generations. Maybe the mods need to pin the salient video links ?

Anything over 0.010 deep is boarderline crushed. some brands have more fragile chemical mix than others. Wolf seems to go "not deep enough, not deep enough.... crushed!" Winchester seems to be much more tolerant. As "Socalshooter69" said, sort by headstamp and seat them all the same.

Increase the chamfer on the bottom edge of the breech face. That's most likely your problem area.

ALL springs take a set. They all weaken with each and every flex. Most guns are so ridiculously over sprung to ensure after thousands of cycles in a rough finished (and probably dirty) gun they will still work. We polish and precisely fit and can reliably shave spring rate. My "rule of thumb" is very light springs should be changed sooner than heavy ones. 2-3000 for a 10#. At that point, the springs have (guesstimate) lost 8-10% or close to a pound. Even in a superbly polished and correctly tuned gun, that is near the " point of no boom". A 13# can go 5-6000 before losing 10% and a 15.5 can go twice that (in my gun) and still be 100%. How far you let it drop depends on how well polished, tuned and maintained the gun is. I've polished and tuned my guns such that with fresh 15.5# springs they get DA 5# 10oz. After 10k cycles it's down to 5#8oz. A 14 would put it low 5's and a 13 would be high 4's... but SA gets too too light.

I ran the PD 10# hammer spring for about 1000 rounds. I was 100% with Federals, Winchester AND BOLO. But it was too light. i was getting 3# 10oz DA and 15 oz SA. Trust me on this.... 15 oz SA is too light !! With the near zero trigger motion of the bolo ... it was spooky light.