johnbu

If this is true... the gun may have other issues away from the hammer. Sa ALWAYS hits harder than DA. If you have SA fail to fire, you have other issues. I would inspect the firing pin block and firing pin very closely. They are probably crashing together. MemphisMechanic has a nice post on how to ensure they work together correctly. The slide may also be stopping short of full battery. Inspect the locking lugs and rails. I would also "plunk, thunk, drop" a full 50 or 100 rounds to be sure they ALL fall out after being pressed in the barrel hard.

Who? (joke) I actually got my first tanfos before any uspsa involvement or even hearing about "Ben". (Yes, i do live under a rock!) [Sight radius is 1/4" longer on s3 over s2]

The Match 9mm slide on a da/sa gun wouldn't be LEGAL in production. I doubt many would catch you, but .... still against the rules for production.

As far as i know, Hammers are identical. Just so you are aware, the titan hammer will change the geometry of the system and, if used, the 1 piece sear will need to be fitted to allow the safety to function. There are write ups about it here. Be sure you have "good" ammo with the primers set BELOW flush. CCI and S&B should be 0.008 inch below flush. Winchester 0.006". Federal 0.003 below flush. The harder the primer, the deeper it needs to be set. Many (if not most) light strike issues can be traced to the primer seating depth. Today at the range a factory stock M&P was light striking factory ammo. The primers were about 0.010" HIGH after being struck !! He was cussing the gun, but should have been cussing the ammo ! We found the struck ammo later on the ground. But with that said, a solid polish job of all friction areas will also greatly increase reliability of the gun.

You would be mistaken with that thought. the square trigger guard "competition" frame grips are different from the round trigger guard models.

Good ! Success is always enjoyable. Don't get too bothered by the actual pull weight, just focus on the smoothness. A highly polished gun with a 6 pound trigger will feel better than a 5 pound trigger that is gritty. At least to me.

You make it sound easy! It's pretty hard after a couple bottles of Chianti.

Fyi. installing the spring strut backwards will hang the hammer up too.

Yes, that's how i do it. I REMOVED the OT screw completely from mine. Trigger feel is much more modulated by sear and hammer hook interface. A light buff (sear face is only surface hardened and polishing can burn through the hard part). Using the patriot defense reduced power sear spring and trigger spring will also lighten up the SA. Mirror bright polishing the all the pins and holes will make it crisp like a high dollar custom gun. Do that and check every 500-1000 rounds, polish any parts that show signs of rubbing.

Just to be sure.... you are pulling the trigger FULLY to the rear while holding the hammer back while poking the firing pin... right? If so, have you also backed the trigger OT screw way out, so the sear can fully lift the safety?

Strong chance, very strong it's you hitting the lever. Shoot left handed only, then no way can you accidentally hit the slide lock lever.

Ding ding ding ! sounds like the best way to get an answer.

After polishing to a blinding gleam, it might be "tired and true" !

You probably have a Titan hammer in a new extreme version. Replacing it with an old style (solid or single hole, not heart shape) hammer will give you taller hooks. You will probably need to revert to the 2 piece sear . Might have to replace the firing pin block too. That should up sa.

I smoothed out the inside edges of the extended bases and had a long run of no problems. Then used some longer OAL rounds that were made for a 1911 SS 9mm. Bound up at the bottom. read where others have had similar thoughts about long OAL causing issues. Now i still use those rounds, but put short OAL rounds in first and long ones on top.

No need for the buffers. just a place to cause a problem with short cycling.

Henning used to sell a FO front & fixed rear sight set. Highly recommend it. Henning or Taylor Freelance mag extensions. Ambi safety levers (if you want them) Better grips. Patriot Defense, Henning or Eric Garoufel. Polish the gun (see Memphismechanics videos) Enjoy.

Obviously, @MemphisMechanic is a pro at the empty chamber "Israeli Start" and can draw and rack quick as a blink! Lol. Hmmm, while a joke, is that even legal? I would think so... but never concidered it.

That does narrow it down to the mag release. It must be hanging up / sticking somehow. Good luck!

I couldn't tell from your previous post if you actually did all the things i outlined. Did you remove the trigger assembly and insert mags? Did inspection show rubbing on the trigger bar?

There are more chances of a hang up at the discontinuity between the baseplate and body of the mag. Sadly, nothing is 100% and hangups occur at the worst times. Only ever happened to me while on the clock !

Don't sweat it. you aren't the first person to discover a "gun fault" wasn't the gun. (And you won't be the last) Nice to hear the accuracy is good.

Hi @PrimaryBruce ! I'm using your mount with vortex pattern. It was, and is, loose. I just shrugged and put a layer of electrical tape under it (not in the dove cut). Then used a slide pusher to install. Cinched it tight with the provided screw, slathered with locktite blue 242. This was one of the first batch. I bring it up because it's been a non-issue. The mount has (knock wood) never loosened. The original vortex dot has died and was replaced by vortex, but the mount has never been a problem. Happy customer.

Just keep it between the two of us... wink wink, nudge nudge. LOL.

(Looks both ways, turns up collar, acts conspicuously inconspicuous... ) Psst! Hey, over here.... can you keep a secret? Here's the stock 2 CO "secret sauce". The front and rear sights weigh 1.1- 1 2oz. Lose them both. A PD aluminum guide rod saves 3/4 oz. If you need that extra 1/4 oz, use a cz polymer guiderod. The mag well needs to be flared to help reloads, open it up and lose a couple tenths more. Sadly, the nice aluminum grip panels have to go. Use factory wood, sanded wood with skate tape, PD plastic or factory plastic panels. Wood is 0.8oz w screws, hennings are 2.0oz. Shaved wood with skate tape came in at 0.7oz. Use a light weight dot like vortex viper and a light (0.4 -0.5 oz) dovetail mount. The Primary vortex mount is 0.4oz. Do all that and it should make weight even with (empty) extended mag bases that hold 23 rounds. If you still need to lose weight, remove the magazine spacer plate and use a Grams 38s follower. That will save 0.6 oz.