johnbu

You can see the gun move independently of his hands. That's to be expected from a little shaver, but point it out to him and explain that the goal is to get strong enough to keep the gun from moving. You'll be surprised how fast he is able to get that under control once he knows what to do! Are you reloading? If so, get some 95 grain 0.356 diameter bullets. You'll have to seat them short like 1.000", but the gun will feed them fine. Then use a fast powder and load them for 900fps or so. They will have the recoil of a .22 from that gun.. Great for steel challenge and for the boy to learn to shoot (without a flinch). Keep up the good work!

Thumb notch and stippled to increase traction. I like the cheese grater-esque feel.

PD will have an aluminum version out too.

If you measure the wire diameter of the 6# long slide and the 8# std you will find they are not the same. At least the ones i measured were different! As you said, the long slide springs will coil bind in the std length slides. I found only the 6 and 7 LS springs can be used reliably in std slide guns. 8# LS springs sometimes work, sometimes not.

http://taylorfreelance.com/shopping/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=52 Taylor Freelance had 170 Grams kits in stock

Lol, i highly doubt it ! (The crying part) Completely agree with loading long not needed, unless you are running 220 gr bullets.

Use the softest primers and seat them as deep as possible. Or find a way to seat them deeep. Federal match can be dead flush and still popped in a fully polished gun w 10# pd hammer spring. But it was too light at 3 1/2# da sub-1# sa. Today i prefer 15.5 pd springs. The key is FULLY polishing so it is silky smooth. Then the weight is secondary.

Sweet! Then again after a "40", who cares if you got it right or wrong?

For what it's worth, i slid a bolo into a S2 with match SAO trigger, titan hammer. I had to completely REMOVE the pre-travel screw. Other than that it dropped in. It turned the trigger into a switch. Best single action trigger i ever toggled. Nearly zero reset, smooth and light almost no pre-travel ... just a slight motion and ... bang! Really, if i hadn't experienced it, i probably would agree with @Twinkie, but having done it... well it flat out works. The bolo (as i understand it) was engineered to drop in when titan hammer and one piece sear are used. That has been my experience too. However, you can tweak it to work with your henning & egw parts. just more effort to get it right. Needed? Lol, some think the factory trigger is good enough. if you want the best sao tanfo trigger, then it's the only way to go. But, otherwise not "needed", but hight desirable.

Cz is small caliber. Tanfo (in America) is large frame able to eject 10mm, 38s and 45acp.

In the picture i see, the ejection ports look identical. Can you please elaborate?

My thoughts are the opposite for off season dryfire. last winter i put an 18# and even a 22# hammer spring to work on trigger control.

So.... you'll reassemble them for $2 ? Lol

Did you polish the firing pin AND channel to a mirror finish? Also the hammer strut, spring and the hole. All mirror bright. The above will help with ignition, this next trigger smoothness. Trigger bar plunger? The strut, head (outside and inside) and the hole... all mirror bright?

Your firing pin block may also be hampering motion of the firing pin. Have you tested it? Look up memphismechanics post on it. Have you plunk tested that the rounds are not too long?

About 6 different models can be found in 45acp. probably a straight witness.

These guns are NOT happy when people abuse them by dropping in a round and forcing the extractor over the rim. They dont seem to have been designed for direct drop. Always, insert a mag and rack the slide to feed for long life of all components . But, your gun ... (Since you seem to enjoy doing so, buy several extractors and pre-fit them so they will drop in during a match.) Your root issue was the breech face not polished. That friction slowed / stopped the feeding up into the extractor. Also polish the frame and slide rails. That will make cycling easier all around.

Great! Glad it worked out for you. Like nearly everything on these guns, it's pretty easy ... the second or third time. Hardest part is the start.

+1 on what MemphisMechanic said. You will wind up installing and removing the sear many times to get it "just right". Embrace it! Expect it! and don't rush it. The fitting is straight forward removing metal from UNDER the sear leg. Look at it when it won't engage. Mark the "wrong side" so you KNOW which to work on as it's easy to get confused when it's all apart. Or you can shave material off the "bump" on the safety until it engages. That works too, but then you can't ever go back to the factory hammer.

"Decent" means more motion than you like initially both pre-and post travel. setting them too tight initially could lead to issues of fail to reset or some other goofy failure. Clean it up and lube it. After the gun is polished, runs a few hundred rounds and settles in, THEN tighten up pre travel and over travel screws to your liking.

5w30 walmart synthetic and axle grease on high pressure areas. 3 in 1 oil when it turns cold.

Never heard of them.

Some do break, but it's rare. I'm still shooting the snot out of the originals in all my guns.

yes, Henning's pin is about the same. But they seem to be not produced any longer.

I can run cci, too. Currently running the PD 15.5 hammer spring (polished), on a diameter reduced,polished strut in a polished hole. Swinging a polished Titan hammer through a polished gap. It hits a polished firing pin that lives in a highly polished channel. The primers NEED to be seated 0.003 to 0.008" deep. Pure flush is sketchy. But, i run range pick brass. Even the black oxidized year old brass gets picked and tumbled in my "course" media and used. If you use tight primer pocket brass, sort and load only one headstamp, etc, your depth may vary from mine. With the rest of the gun also detail polished, the DA is a decent 5 1/2#. With the da stroke lengthening tricks from @Patriotdefense done. Note, you want smooth da pull more than light. Become focused on making it smooth more than light.