cvincent

On a 650? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! the small tablet is mounted to the wall, mainly used as a camera as a "powder check". the MK7 tablet is mounted to the case feeder mount, which actually mounted to the wall. so yeah>> the vacuum is mainly used in trimming rifle brass. i run PVC pipe from the vacuum to the on press trimmer.

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Can’t comment on the Dillon trimmer. Never used it. I’m using the router motor trimmer, and dillons carbide blackout trim die. The biggest problem I’ve came across is the large amount of brass shavings from the conversion. See this thread for more info. .223 - 300 Blackout Brass Processing - What do I need? https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=16618&share_tid=260235&share_pid=2891582&url=http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/topic/260235-%2E223---300-Blackout-Brass-Processing---What-do-I-need%3F/page__view__findpost__p__2891582&share_type=t Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can I buy one? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you wet tumble? Brass still wet? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Me too. M die removes the inside burr. Crimp die removes the outside burr and the flare the M die made. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m gonna go with yes. You may be able to make it work though, since you have the 40 and want to run 9 through it. I have 40, 223 and 308. They’re all different. Don’t have the 9 to compare. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I turn the mark 7 650 on and leave the room. No powder check. No charge or double charges are not even on my mind. I’m more concerned with having a bin full of rounds with no primer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh yeah.. the Mr bulletfeeder.. it seems the dropper assembly is a pretty tight tolerance to the .308 diameter. When using coated Bullets sized to .310 some would get stuck. Had to modify the dropper assembly to work as well. It’s been a lot of work to get everything to run properly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m on a Mk7 650. I’m using the titan trimmer adapter with the Bosch router. (Google Titan trimmer, or honey badger trimmer) I’ve had issues with it, mainly related to the large amount of brass swarf. The chips would get sucked in to the front bearing of the motor and cause excessive heat. I made a shield and added 2 more vacuum ports. Seems to have fixed it. The brass chips are long and stringy and get wrapped around the end mill causing excessive amp draw and if they didn’t clear before the next brass goes in, it would trip the electrical breaker. The stringy chips also get caught in the corrugated vacuum hose, I’ve since made the hose out of 1 1/2” pvc pipe. Haven’t made any brass since that mod, but if anything it will be easier to clean out the giant chunks of stringy brass. I have also switched to the fast and friendly brass boring bar. Instead of the end mill, The insert has a chip breaker, so the consensus is that it breaks up the stringy brass better. Haven’t cut any amount of brass with it yet, so can comment on the effectiveness. You will need the short trim Tool head. Carbide trim die. I do a universal decap. Trim/size, in 1 toolhead. M die, powder, MBF, seat, crimp in the other. Also not all brass works, I’ve found wolf, herters, do some weird belling in the M die Almost like an hourglass shape. GFL brass won’t chamber in 2 guns I’ve tried. They were both ballistic advantage barrels though. I just stick to LC brass now. It’s the easiest to swage in the 650 with a swage it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I say you get rid of the expander ball and use an M die. More better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Me too! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What are you making? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve got a Bullet sense and decapsense Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would check the plastic primer advance thing. Since it’s the piece you changed since it worked before. The primer punch doesn’t get adjusted. It gets installed fully and tight. There’s no adjustment to it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Adjust the nose guide to just barely far enough so that point up Bullets do not drop down and flip. The bare minimum that you can get away with. After that isolate it from any movement of the press. It will be 100%. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s exactly what I thought when I got one. It needs to be just a little bit bigger... I may call and see if I can get a bigger one. Thanks for the info. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is from a SVI 5” sight tracker with aet barrel. CED chrono. Starting in column E the numbers are Hi, low, ES, AVG, PF, SD. If that makes sense... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you called them? Have you tried the private Facebook page? What probalems are you having? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No on the primer collator. Haven’t heard about the powder measure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you’re using the auto ejector modification for the super swage, it’s a little tight and doesn’t fling them off as well, If you resize first. I think I would deprime and swage first with your setup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agree with tortoise. What are you using to swage? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do not. I Wet tumble and a little bit of one shot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I made it with a tubing bender. It’s just 1” round tube. Here’s a quick snippet running at 1500 rph. http:// Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk