cvincent

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got that too, when all the parts were new. But I think it has dissipated since running a couple thousand rounds through. Just got a new bolt carrier and the smell has returned. Never got that with my rifle caliber ARs. I thought it was rather odd. Not too concerned about it though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I picked one up from optics planet, Black Friday. 95$. Looks like they’re still priced ~100$. Cycled some rounds through by hand, in a Glock QC10 upper, lower and barrel. Works fine. Will test some live fire this week. My plan for it is a backup BCG. If it works, 100$ is legit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone using one? Are they a good option? Google search shows a lot of people using their stocks and braces, not a whole lot on their Bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t like the expander ball. The brass had more neck runout than with an M die, and it didn’t work with a Bullet feeder, the bullets would topple while indexing, M die solves that. My experience anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The tumbling with pins doesn’t really remove the burrs in my experience. It knocks the sharpness down a little bit. However, I use a Lyman M die on the loading toolhead along with a Lee FCD. The M die knocks off the burr on the ID and the FCD knocks off the OD burr. Works great. I use a boring bar instead of the end mill. I think it makes a cleaner cut. But unless converting blackout brass the cost is probably not worth it. Can’t comment on the giraud, but the RT1500 is more efficient for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I notice that after the prep stage the case alone in the case gauge sits deeper than after it’s a finished cartridge. So I set my dies so the bare case is actually below the minimum step in the case gauge. But after it’s a fully loaded round it is flush with the lower step. Seems to work fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At least she’s off and mark 7 is running again! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t know, I love my Mark 7 650. 50,000 cycles on it, maybe 10-15,000 before the mark 7. All I’ve had to replace are springs and 1 indexing ring. Have caliber conversions for 9, 40, 223, 300blk. Along with processing toolheads for the rifles. My main cartridge is .40. And it’s soooo dialed in, it just pumps out ammo. I don’t case gauge, ever. Never have ammo problems. Have a camera for powder inspection, bulletsense, decap sense and I rigged up a sensor to detect if the primer wheel is not rotating, to avoid primerless ammo. ~$200 dollar caliber conversions and perfect ammo. I would be hard pressed to give it up. But alas, the lack of swaging.....[emoji53] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would just try the puller first, depending on the amount of resistance you get while pulling, can dictate whether you think you should apply heat. It may take a decent amount of initial torque, then it will break free and go smooth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emoji1690] Naw it’ll be fine. I seriously doubt it’s on there “that” tight. Just watch the threads in the shaft of the mark 7, if the shaft of the puller goes inside the threaded hole it could damage them. So put a spacer or washer or something if you need to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get a jaw puller, if heat doesn’t work. Probably get a cheap one from harbor freight, or autozone Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried it with brass only. No pins or water. Bad idea. Smelled really bad. Brass looked horrible . Had to clean the tumbler out a few times before using it again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you read the evolution thread in non Dillon reloading forum? There’s one thousand replies. There’s some quirks it seems. However, haven’t seen any posts that say “I wish i never sold my 1050” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Try running the press with the 2 pins that secure the toolhead removed. That, along with the above suggestions eliminated crushing cases completely on my machine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The fastest would be to cut out the crimp. Whether a prep station or something chucked up in a drill. The super swage works, it’s just slower. You can add a spring for auto eject, you get into a rhythm and it’s decent.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ehhh, I only used it for a few hundred before adding a mark 7. It seemed better before the autodrive, I only use LC brass because it seems to take minimal swaging to take a new primer. I think if the swage it was slightly larger in diameter might work better. I wouldn’t buy it again. I’m considering just using a countersink bit in a drill. It doesn’t take much and should be quick. There’s really no good option for us 650 owners. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

May also depend on how you reload the gun. Do you reload it like a pistol, bullets forward? Or reload like a rifle, bullets backward and beer can grip. The long mags are easier this way. And is more better IMO. But just like every thing else, what ever you practice and works for you, will be best. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Better than one shot imo. Lubricates just as well, but less sticky. Smells good and I think I use less of it. Dillons is overkill for pistol brass imo. Super sticky. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine is attached to the wall. Completely isolated from the press. Along with the filed down humps as shown above. Still get stuck cases. None upside down though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very cool! Just curious is all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dang bro! what do you do with a 500 S&W to shoot so much of it you need an evo? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had mine to where the bolt would just lock back. Then adding the quarters, hard to say but looks to be like over a half an inch past the bolt catch. The difference is pretty huge in dot movement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How far forward of the bolt catch would you say the bolt is when pulled fully to the rear? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those of you who are short stroking; how short are you going? For instance, I’m testing right now, and I’m 2 quarters from the trigger not resetting. While zero’ing the gun from a front and rear bag, the gun full auto’d twice. Wasn’t able to duplicate it while shouldered. JuSt wondering what other people are using as a reference of “short stroke”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk