cvincent

Anyone wear out a MBF powder funnel? Loaded thousands and thousands and thousands of coated bullets perfectly without any die or press adjustments, then all the sudden it started shaving the coating in the seating die. Went over the press, dies, cleaned, adjusted the flare a little bit. Still shaving it slightly. Noticed the small step on the funnel is no longer there. Ordered a new one to see if that’s the cause, curious if anyone has seen this with that funnel. 650 mark7. Dillon size die, Redding comp seater die, Lee FCD. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They don’t really like the RF100 as much as CCI or Winchester. But I think I’ve loaded almost 4 cases of them without issues Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hundo gauge? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Perhaps it’s your bullet profile and/or OAL Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes! The problem is that there is too much vibration. Even at the lowest setting. Put primers in it and run it. Push on the lower black spring thing (push in, towards the blue metal base stand) that the tube goes into while it’s running. You will see that the primers slow down. I used zip ties to snug it in little by little, till I was satisfied. Also adjust the stabilizer plate snug against a primer so that the primers barely go through. One primer will not go through the plate, but you get 2 or 3 pushing against it, and they go through. What I see is, the primer that’s just falling down the tube, gets pushed by the line of primers and tips it, while falling in the tube, thus flipping it. If you can get space between each primer after the stabilizer plate the better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was a funny comment in regard to Mikes reply about slapping an optic on a pistol after the start signal. An SBR is not a braced pistol. It’s a rifle. They are allowed provided its registered. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

*production shooter* Standby>BEEP> slaps his Glock into a Roni SBR. Squirts bullets everywhere. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So They took some parts off a RL1050 and slapped them on a super1050, and call it a 1100. Took some parts off a 1100 and call it a cp2000. Took some parts off a 550, slapped them on a 650 and call it a 750. Boom. Got it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also I think that since PCCs are harder on parts, the grooves in the standard pins are a weak point for breakage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While I’ve never used a 1050. I see primer system problems all over the Internet discussions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wonder if the mark 7 works with a 750... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I can assume from this post on Facebook that there is a new machine on the floor. And not a Cp2000 or 1100. Until today I never heard a peep about a new 650. They didn’t even have a 1100 or CP2000 on the floor last time I was there a few months ago. Very interesting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think it’s just the nature of the beast. It’s a spring loaded decapper, it’s literally getting hammered every time it decaps. I’ve probably broken 10. You can grab them at a hardware store. 1/4” E clip. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The lee universal decap has a square shoulder that gets stuck on the case mouth as well. So what I do is, stick it in your drill and bevel the shoulder so it’s a smooth transition from the actual decap pin to shaft. Works good and the die and pins are cheap to replace. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Apologize as I have no answers to your questions, but I’m curious why Mark 7 would sue a brass supplier?

I ran many a loaded rounds through a GRX till one got super stuck.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I still get a few flipped primers, haven’t been able to get it 100%. I’ve tried mousepads, angling it all different directions, perfectly straight and plumb, tried all kinds of stuff. What’s worked best for me is, I wrapped a zip tie around the base of the unit around the black spring thing, and kept tightening the zip tie while it’s running to slow the primers down. It has a rheostat but it’s still too fast imo. Also adjust the stabilizer plate to where primers just barely go in. It usually takes a line of primers to push them through the plate, if there’s one or two primers only, they won’t go through. That also slows them down after the stabilizer plate, they have to work a little bit to get through, and it spaces them out a little. I’ve thought about getting a short extension cord and adding another rheostat to that, to slow them down a scoshe more. I feel that’s the problem. They just go too fast after the stabilizer plate, the line of primers pushes the primer that’s trying to go down the hole and it flips it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found out which boring bar that honey badger uses and bought one from somewhere else. Cheapest I found it was 90 bucks. And you have to cut it down to length. I don’t know anything about machining, so I didn’t know how to read or measure inserts, so I bought one of honey badgers for 20$. So all in all it wasn’t a whole lot cheaper. Inserts are like 5$ elsewhere if you know what one you need. The boring bar does make better cut, no real chamfering though. I use an M die to flare the neck, and that will remove the inside burr, and a Lee FCD will remove the outside burr. So not really an issue IMO. My biggest issue was the mass amount of brass shavings clogging up the trimming die, vacuum manifold, and vacuum hose. The boring bar has a chip breaker so the shavings are smaller, I also plumbed in PVC pipe instead of vacuum hose. Seems to work great now. This is on a mark 7 650 so the feed rate is probably higher than manual press, but I would think that the shavings could still be an issue. They would actually clog up the trim die and the router would pull to much juice and trip the 15 amp circuit breaker. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I’m flying, they go in the 100 round boxes. Any other time, they’re in ammo cans and buckets. I always have an ammo can full, ready to go, in my conveyance. Local match, I grab a few handfuls and dump em in a pouch, stick it in the range bag. Practice session, straight outta the ammo can. I don’t case gauge ever. Sold the Hundo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What’s the call as an RO if a shooters belt partially falls off during a stage? Couldn’t find anything in the rules that specifically states this. Had a few people say he should get a re shoot, including a certified RO, I caught some slack for not stopping the shooter. I don’t see it as grounds for re shoot. Same as if any other piece of a shooters equipment fails, ie; gun or mags. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I seriously doubt it will accommodate an offset optic. I don’t have an offset optic, but it’s tight with a c more railway and a Magwell Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I made a simple “sensor” to detect if the primer wheel is not rotating. It beeps every time the wheel indexes. Works well, but could use a little refinement, it blocks the live primer chute partially. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wouldn’t worry about static or sparking. I run the voltage from a 9v battery though my 650primer system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I loaded these to 1.120” they fed fine also in my STI edge. I’m using the Acme coated 140s. And I think they may still be a little long for the bullet profile as they tend to stick slightly when ejecting the rounds by hand. Next time I’ll go deeper. I was kinda rushed when making these for a steel match. My biggest problem is getting them to feed through the mr bulletfeeder. It takes some super fine tuning to get them to flip, and then they like to drop into the output tube sideways and jam the whole thing up. [emoji849] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk