Darqusoull13

Definitely build, you get exactly what you want and the rifle suits you and your shooting style. Between my "off the shelf" race rifle and my purpose built race rifle, I paid less money to get the purpose built rifle exactly how I wanted it. Plus it's fun! Latest build is 5.5 lbs with optics, be happy to send a build list via PM as it came out in your price range

No idea on the entry fee, but he took the DQ like a man. The pistol coffin is a nice holster but I have seen pistols bounce out of them. I can walk around upside down on my hands with my ALS, or get my sling caught on my pistol, or get my pistol caught on a wall backing out of a position. After I switched to the ALS I KNOW my pistol inadvertently coming out of my holster wont send me home early from a match. The GLS is also a nice holster too and they seem to have a model to fit darn near anything.

Also ask yourself if you need all 30 (40?, 45?, 50?) rounds in your magazine you are reloading into to finish the course of fire. Most of the time I can download the mag by 1 or 2 rounds to seat the mag a little bit easier.

I haven't had to replace anything yet and I'm well over 15k. I've just kept it clean and kept the extractor clear of carbon buildup. I shoot mostly 147 grain rounds at ~130PF though so I'm not exactly putting a lot of stress on the pistol.

Yeah, that's the only problem when mentioning matches in Texas. While we have a ton of matches going on every weekend, they are a couple hours drive away from one another! Might try and see if anything is going on with the Corpus crowd or maybe at Starry. Our local range is flooded after all the rain we got this past week so matches in town are canoe/kayak only.

Generation Practical Shooters is having a match Sunday at Area 59. There's also a Steel Challenge match on the 28th at Area 59. The only other match I know of that has not been rained out is a 3-Gun match hosted by River City Shooters in San Antonio.

You can get a 6" 2011 stupid heavy with a steel grip, tungsten guide rod, big heavy mag well and no lightening on the slide. The question is, would it be fun to shoot. To me, shooting a 6" 2011, even a lightened 6" slide, requires a little hotter 115 / 124 grain load (~145 PF) to get the slide to cycle fast enough that I don't feel like I'm waiting an eternity. That's more energy to deal with in recoil. The biggest (no pun intended) variable I would look at would be the size of the grip and how the pistol fits in her hand. My friend felt that a 2011 had more recoil compared to a CZ because she had a solid grip on the CZ. I've seen similar things happen for small-pawed shooters moving away from Glocks to smaller grip polymer pistols (M&P, Sig 320) because they can get a more solid purchase on the pistol. The beauty of the SP-01 is there's enough weight in the grip to balance the dust cover AND the grips start out thin! If your wife has smaller hands, you can keep the SP-01 grip much thinner across than a Tac Sport or a 2011. Also, since the slide on a SP-01 is only working with a 4.6" barrel, you *can* use 147 grain 9mm bullets to cycle the slide plenty fast enough at 125* PF. I prefer either a 147 grain 9mm at around 135-140 PF or a 124 grain 9mm at ~130 PF but I'm worried more about tracking the sight than felt recoil. My female shooting friend that picked up a SP-01 for all the reasons I listed above loads 147 grain 9mm to 130 PF and LOVES her CZ.

We had 2 SBR's today at the match. One hit the 400 yard target, furthest shot on our long range stage. If you run a SBR, know that any comp will be dramatically louder. One of the guys running a SBR today used the Silencerco flash hider mount and it was damn near the most pleasant SBR I have ever been around. Zero unpleasant feeling, minimal concussion. You can pick up the action cycling on either normal gas or piston AR's with a can on with most timers. Same for the CZ scorpion with a can. The RO will need to be close for the last shot and hold the timer near the shooter's face. This doesn't affect the shooters in most situations as they are likely having too much fun to notice anything other than the awesomeness happening with their carbines.

One minor note to add on this topic as it has been brought up previously and applies in this situation. IF the RO's indicate to you to be careful about a specific position to not break the 180 and that they will be looking specifically for this, ask yourself if going home is really worth the 1/2 second you save by attempting something you may or may not be able to pull off. This particular shooting position was tight. Most shooters chose to skip it and take a less aggressive (safer) game plan. Some shooters pulled off the tight position. It was a left-handed friendly position that one or two wrong-handers had less issue entering and exiting. A couple of right handed shooters went home, by their own choice. As a shooter, I don't argue DQ calls. I've only had 1 DQ and I knew damn well I did bad. If I get a bad call down the line, I'll do the same thing I did before, shake the RO's hand, say thank you for keeping me safe, and stay to help my squad reset. As an RO, I hate sending someone home. It sucks and I never want to do it but anyone can make a mistake. Some shooters will argue nearly every call except a maybe dropped gun.

I loaded up a bunch of rounds and used my barrel to case gauge until I found a suitable OAL and bullet profile. I then used the "Hundo" from Ben Stoeger Pro Shop because when I'm loading up a batch of 5000 rounds of ammo to used at Majors, I don't have the time to check each round 1 at a time. If the Hundo failed them, I put them in either a practice pile or a complete fail pile. Checking OAL in YOUR barrel is important, but case gauges can be very useful tools when used properly.

Awesome match guys, great work! I'll be back any year I can get in to shoot!

Make sure you get the part during make ready where you kiss your "Lucky Shell" Joking aside, I've seen Jacob run his integrated X-Rail Benelli and he's not exaggerating when he says the weight of the gun is not a problem for him. Dude is an animal with a shotgun.

Between the price point and reliability, this thing is going to be very well represented in PCC. Just picked one up and will send away for the stamp. It runs anything from 147's at 130 PF to +P HST's to factory 115's. Bullet profile, powder charge, bullet weight, none of that mattered for mine. The thing just runs and runs. Mags are only $20 for the 30 rounders so the biggest cost is going to be keeping this thing fed when it finally has a stock. Also, slapping the charging handle down to act like an 80's action hero put a huge smile on my face. Has anyone tested loads between 115, 124 and 147 at 130ish PF to see if there is a sweet spot in terms of sight (dot) movement? I know it's splitting hairs and I'll likely just load the same for the EVO as I do for my production pistol, just curious if anyone has tested yet.

The Invictus 2-Point 8ight is solidly built, adjustable and it stays put in the configuration even with me laying on it or ripping shells out in a furious rage for missing a target forcing me to reload. The Rack12 is similar, I shimmied around prone on rocks with them on and the clips only got dusty. I'm not a fan of the 12Q as it ships because the clips rotate themselves loose. However, with the Mod1 system (basically as-it-should-BE), the 12Q is solid. Adding the extra coupling bar makes the 12Q awesome, but it's not worth buying without the extra bar. I'm not sponsored by Invictus, but I'm about to buy a DeTurk Vest, 2 2.8 plates and 2 Rack 12's to add to my other 2.8 plates and 12Q. I've tried Carbon Arms caddies. The clips did not feel as rugged to me as I would have liked and the shell spacing was a bit off for me. While that might be used to me using Invictus caddies primarily, on long shotgun stages I borrow my shooting buddies Taccom caddies which work almost as well as the Invictus for me. Best advice I can give you is to feel them all, you can grab off my caddies at any match I'm at, and see what you like best. If you can't make it to a match, buy one of each and then sell the ones you don't like or keep them around for the ever popular 50 round mixed load shotgun stages that we all love!

On that same topic, if anyone found a VTAC sling (Black) with 2 QD's I somehow never got mine back to the car. Checked lost and found at the stats table but no luck.

Sounds like a great way to spend time together. Have fun!

Rock climbing builds insane finger strength and tendon strength. You want to be extremely careful to warm up and avoid one and two finger "pocket" holds until you get a couple of routes in. I used to climb 2 hours a day, every other day of the week in the 5.13, V5 range of routes. My grip was awesome. Having said that, I only climb once every other week now. I moved on to other sport hobbies to stay in shape. Between Judo 3-4 nights a week and heavy dead lift workouts once a week, I am happy with the small increases in grip strength I see week by week. The rock climbing culture is very different from the shooting culture as well, not bad, just somewhat at the opposite end of the spectrum. The important thing to consider is that if you enjoy rock climbing or whatever activity and it benefits your shooting, then enjoy it. Just make sure you are training your shooting too, if shooting better is the primary goal.

In that price range you can't go wrong with a CMC. I just got my 2nd for a loaner / new shooter / backup rifle. They have quite a few options so try to feel the difference between their models, especially the curved or flat triggers. CMC makes solid products and are huge supporters of the sport, which I do consider something to consider in weighing options. I have not felt either a Rise or Velocity so I cannot comment on either. Given a higher budget, the AR Gold is the best AR trigger I have felt. I just haven't gotten to the point where I "need" the AR Gold. Instead, I renewed my membership to my range to get more practice at 300-600 yards for the cost of the AR Gold.

I'm in the same boat as the OP. Since gas blocks came up several times I was wondering if anyone has compared multiple adjustable blocks? Of the many choices, I'm interested in either the SLR or Odin models but I don't know whether the SLR adjustable gas block functionally outperforms the Odin Works gas block if anyone has used both? Which holds position, lasts longer, needs less maintenance if any and is more robust?

That is something I'm also interested in knowing due to the change in the frame.

Alright, mystery solved. It turns out that there was a small piece of aluminum, roughly the size of the tip of a M193, hiding on a burr at the rear of the rail. With the trigger group in, the bolt was being pushed just enough into the small piece of junk to bind and slow the bolt down during cycling. That was the reason there was no binding with only the bolt! A dental pick got the piece of junk out (shown), then a light polish got rid of the rough spot. Denna is back running! Thank you guys for all the help and suggestions. Having y'all as a resource has been awesome!

Will check the carrier to see if anything looks bent from above this evening. Thank you for all the suggestions. It's a little maddening to be able to hear the friction when pushing the bolt back and forth at the rear of the cycle, but not actually be able to see what is rubbing where it shouldn't be.

The gun ran for over 3000 rounds with the TTI lifter after a small tube at install. Mostly Federal birdshot 3 dram at 1200. Just under 500 of the 1oz slugs at 1500fps and under 250 buckshot. Under 20 turkey/pheasant 3" loads total through it. There was a different intermittent issue at installation of the TTI lifter with 1/100 shells jamming forward into the sharp part of the chamber. At that point the shell catch was tuned and the sharp edge smoothed by my gunsmith. After that tuning, she ran great until the issue this weekend.

Yes to all. TTI lifter, TTI bolt handle, TTI bolt release button, opened loading port and tuned shell catch.

I'd like to ask for advice before I go and start an extravaganza of polishing parts. I ran into an issue at a match where the bolt on my M2 locks back shooting slugs (1 ounce, 1500 FPS). Pressing the bolt release does nothing and the gun has to essentially be mortared to clear the jam. I took the gun apart to check for issues. So far I have confirmed the recoil spring and recoil tube are clean and devoid of any gunk. With the trigger group out, the bolt slides back and forth with force and speed, smooth as silk. When I put the trigger group back in the gun and try to cycle the bolt, the bolt hangs at the rear of the recoil cycle. Similarly, when I lock the bolt to the rear using the cartridge drop lever and then release the bolt forward using the bolt release, the bolt very slowly starts moving forward, then about half way through the cycle the bolt goes forward more quickly like it normally should. Additionally, after pressing the bolt release and as the bolt slowly starts to move forward, the carrier will sometimes stall in the upward position and have to be gently tapped down to allow the bolt to continue forward. I used a marker to look for potential binding points between trigger group components and the bolt. It appears the bolt is contacting the front face of the hammer (hammer was locked back prior to insertion of the bolt for troubleshooting) and the front face of the breech bolt latch, both of which seem normal. The surfaces of the bolt contacting these two points also had ink removed due to contact. Visually, none of the surfaces had any burrs, excessive crud or rocks wedged in them. Has anyone ran into a similar issue? I found a couple threads from 2010 with similar issues but those were recoil spring related or solved via sending a bolt in to a gunsmith. Maybe someone could point me in another direction other than polish a couple parts and hopefully smooth out the contacting surfaces?