Darqusoull13

No need. I run Hoppes Black, spray, briefly brush (5 sec) and let sit for a minute or so. Spray off with 3M brake clean then wipe with towel. Re-lube with lube of choice. I prefer Mobil 1 5w20 . Total cleaning time per JP-5 is less than 5 minutes.

Mine have weighed between 5 lbs and 12 lbs with optics. You can build them as light or as heavy as you prefer.

As a general rule of thumb, building off a single manufacturer's operating system typically yields far better reliability and less troubleshooting in the long run. Example: JP Lower, Trigger, Bolt, Barrel and Buffer (SCS). Everything is made to work as a system and has been tested with the other parts. Swap whatever other furniture you want, but when it comes to operating components, stick to a single quality brand.

I run a Vortex UH-1 as the main and a Defender-ST on the 45 degree offset. JP 45 degree mount for the offset dot. If you're set on a dot on top instead of a holographic run Double ST's. Very clear glass, large window, solid on both my pistols and PCC's. One of my loaner JP-5's runs the ST on top and it gets bashed around like a rental. Still solid

This or similar has been awesome for SCSA storage. Husky 4-Tier Industrial Duty Steel Freestanding Garage Storage Shelving Unit in Black (77 in. W x 78 in. H x 24 in. D) We have since added a 3rd set of shelves for everything in the back. Getting things off the ground has been awesome. Everything goes back in its place. It's a very "paint by color" system. Things go back with the things of similar shape and size. Put 5 target hangers in a 5 gallon bucket along with a laminated printout of a stage. Add 2 cans of white paint, 1 can of black paint, 1 can of red paint. 8 buckets and you just pull the "stage" at set up along with (5) 2x4's, 5 stands, a start box, a table and the correct plates.

Dillon has very detailed instructions on setting up crimp in their set up guide. Generally though, don't bother adjusting crimp in pistol rounds after it's set up properly. As far as trash brass, some pistols won't even chamber certain brands of brass reloaded with bullets over x weight or seated past certain depths. The reason is the case isn't tapered like a proper 9 mm case but instead stepped. Reloading into that step causes a bulge that is over chamber dimensions. If you're using mixed brass and have too many of those cases, either find another source of brass or try to cull as best you can. If you're using a Hundo case gauge that's where I'd recommend giving the head stamps a once over for the final check. Toss the trash brass in "zero only" or practice piles.

It's all funny until you realize guys like Grant can react faster than the 0.3 s that the beep is going off.

Let's bump Major up to 170 (+?). That will simultaneously kill 40 and 9 Major

Are you using mixed brass? If so, are the pieces of brass landing closer stepped cases? Examples of such trashy brass being FM, Xtreme etc.

No worries, usually is mags. TTI +10's should come with a new spring. TTI for 17 round GLOCK mags don't need a different spring but only add 4. Double check your springs are the correct length and you took out all the other bits other than the spring and follower from the GLOCK mags. From there, load the mags completely and feel the pressure of the bullet column as you slowly remove bullets by hand feeding. The column should move with vigor as each round is removed. If you feel the follower get stuck at the transition, you still have something catching.

I've used probably 10 different JHP's over 3 JP-5's and haven't had this issue. The V2's specifically fed fine for me. What magazines and followers are you using? Is this a persistent issue from round 1 to round x?

Some of the accumulation is due to powder choice but the coating is also a significant source of buildup. Running Titegroup with HiTek coated bullets will foul the comp faster than using a cooler burning powder like Sport Pistol as you mentioned. Running Titegroup with JHP's will lead to a higher rate of buildup in the comp compared to cleaner powders. I will agree, if you avoid HiTek coated bullets, you'll accumulate far less crud in the comp.

Yep, that's what I'd do. Use the leftovers to feed the Eagle and run a different bullet in the S2. TC's are good. The nice thing about the S2 is they feed and run a bunch of bullets really well. I wouldn't worry too much about feeding in the S2. I've run 88's to 150's in all sorts of profiles and generally speaking the rule is "If it fits in the chamber it ships." Sometimes you'll have a short chamber but typically the S2's group best with 125 grain-ish bullets that aren't nearly as long as some of the 147's out there. I think Blue still makes a 135 grain TC that was nice for short chambers. I haven't used those in a while but I ran them for a while.

Sport Pistol, or N320 as a second best, and either JHP or CMJ style will save you a bunch of cleaning . Titegroup and HiTek coated is a recipe for a filthy compensator.

The Garmins are very accurate. 95's with ~3.2 gr Titegroup were fun at one point.

Why do you want to remove this is my question?

I think there are some directors on the board that genuinely want to do right by the sport. Personally I'd like to see more effort spent growing SCSA and improving clubs but all that is discussion for another topic.

Bingo! LO in SCSA is wasted effort with no big picture impact. I'd much rather see BOD focus on topics with a tangible outcomes on: Shooter retention Improving SCSA RO Cert process SCSA Club assistance Youth SCSA growth

Hopefully this gets shot down immediately so we don't have to keep bringing it up. There is virtually zero difference in practice between LO and either CO or Open in SCSA.

Routine inspection during cleaning and replacing wear over high round counts. I'll stick with the SCS. It's been the number 1 part I recommend on any AR to make the recoil impulse smoother, improve reliability and smooth out the sound.

In every gun I've shot with these there's a janky double recoil impulse that's extremely distracting. Stick with the JP.

Replace the slider and lock ring with new.

Spend a ton of time shooting it and less time tinkering. Q1: Function > All with mags. Load to manufacturer recommendation. Q2: Syntech -> 80 degree lock. 124/5 gr Reloads -> 70 degree lock. Run your accurate reloads or factory and practice, practice, practice.

Did you inspect the slider and lock ring?