All-Gator

Thanks for the replies: Consensus seems to favor modifying the frame. Now, where can I find a .360 end mill?? If it ain't one thing, it's another.

I've reviewed several articles on how to mill the C/P cut...I haven't found any on milling the C/P lugs back to a W/N profile. None of them address timing issues/problems one might encounter...which is one of my main concerns. Also, in looking at the frame it seems the bridge has been lowered to the point that all of the rearward impact of the lugs is on the VIS...nada on top of the bridge. I have no idea of how that might affect the choice. I don't know what I don't know.

Not bad advice...but it's not what I intend to do. Still need the info on which way to go. The barrel is a Scheumann AET which is currently pretty much unattainable.

I'm about to re-barrel an open pistol, BUT, I'm looking at a Wilson/Nowlin frame and a Clark/Para barrel. I need advice/opinions/warnings as which to modify: Reduce the C/P lugs or mill a notch in the frame? I've learned so much from my mistakes that I plan to make some more...but not right now. Atlas?

It seems that many are complaining about the feed lips on the mags being too fragile. Apparently just leaving the mag fully loaded for any length of time will cause then to fracture. I wonder if they are going to hold up under the rigors of competition? Slam reloads, etc. As I indicated above, my production loads are still making PF in the EVO. A-G

I'm retired and kinda' like to work on things myself to keep busy...and I think $250.00 is pretty steep. It turns out that the CZ fire control system is very similar to the AK...with which I have never become previously familiar. It quickly became obvious that the CZ was designed as a fully-automatic-capable weapon and the FCS is way over engineered for a semi-auto only configuration. There is much work can be done to vastly improve the trigger. Several AK u-tube vids provided the info which I needed/wanted. However, the trigger housing screw is welded in and (right now) I'm pretty much blocked from starting till I drill/mill it out. If it ain't one thing, it's another!! Thanks for replying. A-G BTW: I searched for previous posts and came up dry. Both here and in General CZ.

Right...appendix D8 found in the Rules section of the USPSA website. Didn't get a response here or in General Gunsmithing, but did go to several AK sites and found that for which I was looking.

Earlier, I posted a topic in the CZ general topics...really a request for information on "how to" deal with (fix) the horrendous trigger in the Scorpion. Perhaps this is a better sub-forum to find some existing knowledge. Any information or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I do understand the basics of how the Fire Control system functions, but would like to avoid re-inventing the wheel. Specifically looking to reduce pre-travel, reset, post-travel, and let-off poundage. BTW, I have ordered a set of reduced power trigger springs from HB Industries. Thanks in advance. DVC. A-G

My squad at last Sunday's USPSA match had three shooters competing in the provisional PCC division...all of whom were using Scorpion SBRs. They seem to be having way too much fun not to join them. By Wednesday, I had my own Scorpion in a pistol configuration and, now, am waiting for a stamp and a bunch of after market "stuff." After a day at the range I found that the Scorpion makes Major PF with my CzechMate open loads (7.8 g. of HS6 behind 125 JHP's) and functions fine with my PO9 Minor PF loads (3.0 g. of Clays behind 147 JHP's.) The recoil of the Major loads surprisingly is probably the same as a 5.56 although the Minor loads are way, way less. With the added accuracy, I think I would opt to shoot Minor. (BTW, I don't know if the Major/Minor scoring difference applies to PCC or not. Actually, I don't know anything about the provisional rules...although it was obvious that some of the normal rules will have to undergo some changes...for example, facing up-range as a required starting position.) Initially, the mag release, slide release, and safety arrangements were confusing; but, by the end of the session, quickly became natural to use. However, the right side ambi-safety has to go! The biggest BUT is the trigger...a mile of pre-travel accompanied by creep, grittiness, fluctuating pressure and plenty of over-travel. The reset is also about a mile long. The advertised 10-pound let-off may be a rather conservative figure...whatever, it's heavy as hell! I've viewed the two available U-tube videos detailing the Scorpion's Fire Control system. The only advice was to "polish" and install the HB Industries reduced power springs. Nothing about reducing pre-travel, over-travel, or reducing reset. Both videos did state that anyone familiar with the AK will be able to apply the same techniques to enhance the trigger. Any, and I do mean ANY, suggestions would be greatly appreciated. DVC

The original question concerned using single action only in IDPA ESP: Why not simply convert the decocker-option to the safety-option and start cocked and locked? Thus avoiding the double action first shot. Am I missing something here??

JayJay, Some additional comments. Modifying a pistol to fit your hand and grip is just that...personal: What works for me might not be appropriate for you. With that in mind, here are some things that I've done to my pistol(s.) I undercut the beavertail and underside of the trigger guard as much as possible. This allows my strong hand to ride much higher on the frame and closer to the bore of the barrel. Ergonomically, this reduces the mechanical leverage and, thus, gives me greater control of the weapon. You would be surprised and how much material can be removed. In combination with the undercutting, I also removed the factory checkering and further reduced the grip width even more. For me, reducing the width of the grip seems more important than the thickness of the grip. BTW, the factory rolled "checkering" doesn't provide much grip and actually is quite slippery: I use quite rough skate board tape on both front and back of the grip. I've found that when using the "thumbs forward" technique, the most important aspect is to insure that the off-hand is also as high as possible. This means that the upper edge if the off-hand thumb should be tight (welded actually) to the lower edge of the strong-hand thumb. And pressed against the grip/frame. Twenty (or thirty) years ago, many shooters placed the trigger finger of the off-hand around the front of the trigger guard. This is no longer in vogue, though I think the world's champion still uses that technique. You might try it. I use a thumbrest only on my open pistol, but only as an index point to maintain a consistent placement of my off-hand. I do not use it to attempt to control recoil. Others might disagree, but I think it adds additional tension to my grip that I do not want. When shooting NRA Bullseye for the AMU (Army Marksmanship Unit...way back in the day), I was taught to use grippers to increase grip strength, but to use them upside down, ie, trigger finger at the greatest width. This (supposedly) did several things: It focused the effort of the middle and ring fingers; it did not overwork the little finger (a muscle memory thing which can cause "milking" of the grip); and, allowed the trigger finger to retain flexibility. Today, I use the Gripmaster which has independent pressure pads for each finger and does the same thing. A-G

jayjay, If I understand correctly, you do not have difficulties loosing your grip with the smaller frame Shadow or the larger frame CZ97. Perhaps you should begin with a complete and thorough analysis/comparison of your grip on the different pistols. Pay particular attention to what you are doing with your off-hand (the left hand for right-handed shooters.) BTW, the off-hand actually should grip the pistol more strongly than the strong-hand...a 60/40 grip distribution is a common recommendation. Kneelingatlas's recommendation of a thicker/softer grip panel also should assist in this matter. (I've used a thin grip on the strong-hand side and a thick grip on the off-hand side on several pistols with some success.) As Kneelingatlas indicated there are other factors than the grip itself: Lighter bullets require more powder to make major. This produces more muzzle flip and a sharper feeling recoil. Using heavier bullets will most often give less muzzle flip a slower/softer feel to the recoil. (However, using a faster (not slower) powder with the heavier bullets is what produces the slower/softer feel. Compare the bullet weight(s) of the 45's with which you shoot and the weight(s) of your 40's. BTW, I assume that you reload...if not, following this advice would be difficult. Also, what strength recoil spring/hammer spring are you using? Weaker springs contribute to the flip/sharper recoil. If by any chance, you are into weight lifting then doing curls in a "hammer" position of the hands would help with the specific muscles that control the pistol. Actually, using a hammer would be great...so, go drive some nails. With the off-hand! I hope these suggestions are helpful. A-G

gianmarko, Any compensator will not work with minor or reduced loads. Over the (too many) years, I've shot 2011-style custom-built pistol with various compensators/ cartridge combinations. The compensator on my CzechMate is equal in performance to...and better than most...any of those previous pistols. You just need to work up a load that produces sufficient gas to give you a satisfactory results. My load is a 124g. Complete Metal Jacket bullet over 7.8g. of Vectan SP2 at an OAL of 1.120. The produced PF is just above 170. By the way, the grip ergonomics of the CM, the weight of the steel frame, and the lower barrel axis to the frame make the CM a far more pleasant pistol with which to complete. You have a fine pistol. All-Gator

I can push the comp about ten to fifteen degrees past vertical...but can't see light between the comp and slide. Never been a problem...functioning or esthetically. A-G