ClangClang

Here in the US, most people choose barrel length on rifles based on legality issues. The minimum barrel length on a rifle is 16" unless you want to jump through some hoops, bureaucratic paperwork, and pay a $200 tax stamp to have the rifle approved as a Short Barreled Rifle. So for anyone who likes to play with their gear and change things up, the logical choice would be a 16". Then you can have an unwelded brake and remove/install it any time. If we buy the 14.5" version, the brake must be welded on permanently. So even though the 14.5" swings maybe 5% faster. many Americans would choose the 16" for convenience. I don't know what laws you deal with in the EU that may or may not influence your choice, but generally speaking, shorter is preferable for a PCC. Go 14.5".

The added weight *can* make a difference, but it's completely dependent on the unique combination of the frame, slide, optic, ammo, spring, and any other factors influencing the issue. Most of the time, guns are sprung to work within a wide enough range to account for most commercial ammo, so small variations in slide weight don't affect reliability, but once in a while, you can have an issue. Usually a FTE. These are still typically remedied with a different recoil spring.

I can only comment on the CZ's as they are the only 10 rounders that I've got, but the 10th round is as easy as the first to load, and they don't require any additional force to seat whatsoever. I shoot both Prod and CO (same frame, different uppers) and my reload force is identical no matter which mags I'm using.

I have 10 round CZ mags for matches when shooting Prod. It's just one less thing to think about and potentially screw up. It happens - just look above.

@MemphisMechanic I do not believe that pictured frame would be legal in Carry Optics. Appendix D7, Sec. 21.4 states "Grips may not be modified to create a thumb rest or beavertail." I read that to mean that the support-hand thumb area on the frame can be stippled for friction, but cutting any sort of ledge which creates a positive incut upon which the thumb would rest would be prohibited.

At that level, you also need to move like a GM. There are many "paper GMs" who have fast hands but can't move. I don't remember where I saw it, but there's a video from some major (Nationals last year?) of a side-by-side composite of JJ Racazza's runs compared to someone else from the Super Squad. The buzzer goes off at the same time in both videos, but JJ is so far ahead of the other shooter within mere seconds. It's incredible. His splits and transitions are fractionally faster, but his movement from position to position is why he is "next level."

It's the profile of the driver head.

JP makes some of the finest AR pattern rifles on the market. Only you can say whether or not a factory build will be worth it. Do you have the budget (don't forget about a quality 1-6 optic, sling, load bearing gear, etc)? Can you wait 4-6 months for delivery? If not, do you have all the tools and skills necessary to build from parts? Do you have the skills required to trouble shoot any reliability issues after the build? If so, go ahead and build it. RnG is rougher on gear than any other shooting discipline short of going to war. I place reliability and durability as the single most important feature. I've done over a dozen RnG matches and been an RO at more than half- I've watched hundreds of competitors come through my stages... I see SO MANY GUNS go down at matches. Word of warning: be careful about tuning your gun to the bleeding edge of reliability/performance/accuracy. Most of the guns I see have trouble are either race guns, skeletonized, or some other "enhancement" that their owners eventually wind up regretting. Also, for RnG, lighter is better. FWIW. I shoot a KAC SR15 with a quality brake. Rock solid, dead reliable, and still hammers 0.15 splits.

Total thread derailment here, but your statement above leads me to believe you aren't dryfiring correctly, or at least not getting the most benefit out of your dryfire as you could. You shouldn't be dryfiring in DA, or recocking every time for SA. That's not a good use of your time. Do a search on some threads about dryfire training regimens, or better yet, just go get Ben Stoeger's book Dryfire Reloaded. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.

The pin tends to walk out unless you keep the sight installed. The pin needs the tension from the sight base to stay in place.

DPP 2.5. All the reasons as posted above, plus a secondary "armor shroud" protection, and a huge glass window to get a more heads up view of your entire array. Coming from an RMR, I felt like someone with bad eyes who just got LASIK and can suddenly see the world clearly.

No frame difference at all (with regard to magazine fit). The mags are the same. Like G17 vs G34 if you're familiar with that situation.

Just remove the retaining pin. That's it. I've been meaning to remove mine. It runs fine with or without the pin.

Why did you resurrect this 3 year old post?

Typically, when I have a problem with a product, I contact the manufacturer for resolution first. That's usually far more helpful than posting online - no one here can fix your holster for you.

There really aren't any shooting magazines that are still relevant, much less one targeted at competitive shooting. The only one I can think of would be Front Sight which is the USPSA magazine, and it comes with your USPSA membership. I would suggest you ask your stepmother for a USPSA membership ($40 IIRC) which includes the subscription and that would be far more valuable in the long run.

The nitride-only models had to be visually perfect, but they aren't "better" - they just have no cosmetic blemishes whatsoever. They were expensive because so few of them made it off the production line in "perfect" condition - it's a rarity factor. 99% of all Shadows needed to be polycoated on top so that they would pass QC requirements, but again, only for cosmetic reasons (because people who buy guns but don't actually shoot are the biggest whiners of all). But like @eerw said, they haven't been available in a loooong time. Every single Shadow/Orange in shops today is polycoated with nitride underneath. If you see any being advertised as nitride only, it's a typo or some other error. And as far as everything I've heard, there are no plans to produce any more nitride-only guns. Not worth the hassle for CZUB. It's easier and cheaper for them to just automatically have every gun polycoated instead of time-consuming hand inspections to find the 1 in 100 perfect gun that can be sold without polycoat.

Welcome from MoCo!

Another general thumbs up vote for the Shotmaxx 2. I've had mine for 21 months and the features it offers are critical to me and my practice - I would not be able to use a "conventional" timer. I will mention that it has recently started picking up false positives with the accelerometer setting under very rapid hand movement (i.e. registering the first shot off the buzzer at .73 seconds, even though I've never actually been able to break .96), despite being set to minimum sensitivity. However, it has not proven to be an impediment because it's easy to know what's real and what isn't. I bought the 2 year warranty on a whim (I normally never buy extended warranties) so I'll be contacting DAA shortly. Based on my prior interactions with them, I have no doubt that they'll address the issue promptly and satisfactorily, but if not, I'll certainly share that with the forum.

I would be willing to bet that the average shooter, when using a Mantis X, "slacks off" on the amount of attention they're paying to their own grip, sights, and trigger because they are planning on reviewing their performance later on the app. It's a subconscious thing, but it's certainly present. Where I see the real value of the Mantis X is to help diagnose certain deficiencies that would otherwise be impossible to diagnose without an ultra expensive high speed cameras. But as a training tool, I think most serious competitors are actually doing a disservice to their maximum potential by using a Mantis X.

This is why good old fashioned dry fire with a dead trigger is still the gold standard for training. If you are relying on external feedback (e.g. a visual laser), you aren't learning to watch your sights and call your shots. That is the cornerstone of the visual component of fast, accurate shooting.

The right latch is full size, the left latch is slightly lower profile so that it is less "pokey" when you have your rifle slung over your left shoulder. That is an important feature to me because I spend a lot of time running with my rifle slung on my back in Run n Gun matches, so a full size charging latch would stab me in the back non stop. But it would be far less important to a USPSA PCC competitor.

The problem is the Feds DO care. Have you actually read the latest opinion letter? You are allowed to "incidentally" shoulder your brace, but if you are repeatedly and continually firing from the shoulder, you obviously did not intend to build a pistol, you intended to build a rifle, and therefore you are in possession of an unregistered SBR. If USPSA allowed AR-pistols, every single competitor would be shooting the entire match firing from the shoulder (duh) and committing a federal felony at a sanctioned event with video evidence. It's never, ever gonna happen until SBR's are flat out removed from the NFA, which probably aint ever gonna happen either.

Bootleg doesn't make lowers at all. They are "partners" of sorts with PWS and recommend PWS lowers if you want to use a Bootleg upper. If you are referring to PWS, their stripped lowers still come with the required proprietary ambi parts like bolt catch/release, mag release, and safety selector.

My favorite scope at that price point is the Bushnell LRTSi or LRHSi. Good glass, very usable reticle without being cluttered, average weight for its class. GAP was blowing the "H" models out earlier this year for something like $750 which was a screaming deal (they were normally $1200ish street price) but if you post up a WTB ad here (or on snipers hide), there's a good chance you'll find someone who bought one on a whim and still hasn't taken it out of the box and would sell it to you for what they paid.