pskys2

On Jerry's action vid he states 1) lighten one of the springs, can't remember which, for the center pin (don't do this, tried it and didn't like how it felt). 2) relieve the Cylinder Thumb Piece on the rear edge so there is no pressure on it when the Cylinder is closed (I do this but not sure it helps much). The one reason I take out the Flag is it is a PITA to line back up during re-assembly! But then maybe I shouldn't be taking it apart as much? Which I try NOT to do anymore.

The first action job I had on a M29 by Jim Clark Jr. came back without the hammer block, or flag, I called him and he said it was standard to remove them but it should have been in the box. So he sent it back to me. NRA requires it to be in, USPSA or ICORE don't. I think IDPA has gone back and forth, but I'd expect them to require it. It's a redundancy built into the system. The hammer foot rests on the rebound block and keeps it from firing if dropped. It could be hit hard enough to break it though. So don't remove it from your carry, packing around or hunting gun. I'm not sure it helps or hurts a good action job either. Now if you try to get under 5 lbs, a gnat getting into the action can cause issues!

Makes you "light" headed!

Remember to NOT let your hand pass in front of the muzzle either. Sweeping ones self is also a DQ. That's a bit easier with a weak hand reload.

Well pardner I still have my spurs on Both my 627's! I just never use 'em they just slow down the getty up! I'm just too lazy to lop'em off when they don't get in my way.

For the casual competitor they are just fine out of the box. The sights on the PC 627 are good, but most like a FO and it's an easy swap. The cylinder is already chamfered lightly and is fine, but once you start getting into it you will probably like a little more aggressive chamfering though just polishing it up may do fine. The Action Pull will be about 11 pounds and will light off everything, once you start reloading with Federal Primers you will probably like a lighter action. Around 6 pounds is easily done and is what most like. If you've shot several thousand rounds the action will smooth up a little and you can just lighten up springs. It's not like getting a Colt 1911 that won't even feed hardball and having to upgrade everything, like we did before Kimber, STI, Les Baer, Ed Brown, SIG and all the multitudes that put together a good 1911 that needs little but personal touches added.

Single Action on a S&W DA Revolver, they have those still? Jeez next you'll say they still wear spurs on the hammer! Seriously I know PPC had 50 yard shots, about like a Bianchi Cup match and I never use the SA on either COF's. But the S&W SA pulls are usually very nice.

I doubt very much if the Chrono Officer will try to position the powder in the case. If you ask them nicely I'm sure they will find it amusing though. If it's for USPSA load PF for 132+, ICORE 125+. Different procedures for each, USPSA is avg of 3 then 6 if not made, ICORE is single best of 6. Use Clays/ClayDot as Titegroup tends to heat up the gun. I've not used 158 plated in 38 specials though, just in short colts.

325 Thunder Ranch with the rail removed. Loaded with 45 GAP brass, or ACP brass, and a 185/200 coated RN bullet for a 160 PF. In an old, out of production, Comp-Tac IWB holster. I actually EDC this rig/gun with 230 HST's. But have a GP100 with Sarariland Comp III Speed Loaders in either the Comp-Tac IWB or a Blade Tech OWB holster that I might play with this year. PF of 105 vs 155? Might be fun.

Take a trigger gauge, place the hook so when the trigger is pulled it holds the hammer from falling, then measure the ounces it takes to hold the hammer steady at halfway through it's fall. I've found it takes 60 ounces to light off most factory ammo. If you use well seated Federal Primers anything 42 ounces and up have been reliable. If you need to change the pressure you can either bend the main spring or adjust the strain screw. I like to set it close by bending the main spring, then using different length strain screws I fine tune it. Then pick the rebound spring that gives you the feel you like for the trigger return. With Federals, 42 ounce hammer fall and a 5.5# action I usually end up using the 13# rebound spring. With other primers, 60 ounce, 7.5# action takes a 14 or 15 rebound. To get the rebound rate right you need to polish some parts of the action. The rebound slide, DA sear, cylinder bolt face and the trigger where all meet. Lightly polish, doesn't need to be mirror smooth. JM makes a good video on it.

Mike knows people! Sent my 627PC back Nov. 11, 2019 for a broken Trigger Stud. Bought it in 2014, they won't warranty it. They have finally responded back with a letter Saturday. $148 for the Crown Stud, they drill the frame out oversize put a flanged stud in and stake it. Looks to me to be a bit more robust on the M28 I had it done to. For another $143 they will make it like original, refinishing is the reason for extra cost, had that done on a M29 that broke. You can't tell it's been replaced. Don't know how long they will take to do it though. Just pray it's done right. I really am liking the Ruger GP100 I now have, might have to think hard about an 8 shot Gp100?

Yep I'm going to use a Dot this year on a 4" 627 Pro. Just have to get the basement done, ready for electrical, so I can load some ammo on my "new" used Super 1050.

1 was a 1974 M28 Hammer Stud, a M29-3 Trigger Stud, PC625 Hammer stud, PC627 Trigger Stud. I put a lot of rounds through them and early in my quest the first 3 I took apart a lot and a few times applied some mainspring pressure which I'm sure accelerated the issues. The 627 though I've only had apart half a dozen times and never put mainspring pressure on it. At an early 2000's Area III USPSA Championship I was going to shoot the 29 in Revolver with Jerry Miculek. Had to switch because of the broken Trigger Stud. I mentioned it to Jerry and he told me until the year before he had never had one break and mentioned it to a fellow shooter, and guess what the next day had one break. Yesterday S&W sent me a letter and for the crowned stud it will be $148, no warranty, it would be another $143 if I want it replaced as per original for finish work. So at least they've looked at it, hopefully they can get it done and back before the season starts! Don't know though, have a GP100 that I like, action came out pretty good. So who knows maybe Redhawk 8 shot is in my future?

Really I've had 4 go back for Trigger/Hammer Studs and the most expensive was $150 for a M29 cause I didn't want the crown stud and they had to refinish it. The Crowned Studs were about $65. This one is only a few years old and am hoping it will be warrantied, so 6 months may be the damage I face.

when did you send your 929 in? I sent my 627 in for a broken Trigger Stud in early November and haven't heard anything from them?

Be very careful with WST as it tends to be Inverse Temperature Sensitive it will lose velocity as the ambient temps rise. Back in the '90's I used it in 45 acp and had to add 40+ f/s over my target velocities in the winter when I tend to work up loads and it still would barely make major in the summer. A buddy went to no-score in the MW ICORE Regional last summer. He told me he was 50 f/s over what was needed, I believed him as he usually shoots way over PF, when he chron'd the load in the spring. But in the 100 deg heat of July he was 40 f/s under what was needed. I started delving deeper and when he told me his load, it was WST. Didn't surprise me.

Yep you did the right thing. Selling it would have left a hole in your soul.

The PF for ESR is 155 I like a 185 to 200 @ 840 to 780 and Clays/Clay Dot are my choice. Titegroup would be fine but it tends to heat up the gun, and for a Revolver that can be an issue in the summer!

The PF for SSR is only 105. So for local matches and practice getting close won't make much difference.

Dawson carries a full line of about every dimension FS for both Classic and Pinned S&W Revolvers.

NO 6 shot

I've had fully seated strain screws back out. The PPC method is a set screw, not a bad idea with heavy use even with a fully seated strain screw, kind of a machinists loc-tite. I just just use a little blue 242 loc-tite even when fully seated. You can adjust action weight by backing off the strain screw, or shortening, but only for a little of the adjustment. I liken it to fine tuning. But if you back the strain screw out too far the main spring can knuckle and the action will lock up.

If you're serious try PM'ing HearthCo on this forum for Moon Clips. Since you're going with 38 short colts go with the thicker/tighter moon clips made for Starline. On the rebound spring, 1) I smooth up the various parts i.e. rebound block, DA sear, trigger & cylinder bolt. Lightly you don't want to remove metal just polish and keep the angles the same. Get Miculek's DVD on Revolver Action Job. 2) Bend Main Spring to get about 40+ounces of hammer fall, measure with a trigger gauge hooked around the hammer and at mid stroke keeping the pressure balanced. 3) Then I start with the 11# rebound spring. I have a 627 Pro that is set like that with a 5 1/2=6# action and a 627 PC that is set with an 11# rebound spring minus 2 coils for 5 1/2# action. I like both and can't tell much difference. The only thing is this is good only for Federal SP Primers seated correctly. Anything below 40 oz on hammer fall gives me the occassional mis-fire, even with Fed SPP's, and I won't knowingly compete with that. My experience is that to light off all primers takes closer to 60+oz hammer fall.

Well if you tell them you're only going to use Federal Primers they should do a 5-6 lb trigger. You can swap springs and play with the tension screw yourself and get 7.5.

Go to Graf's they have discounts on Super 1050's w/some caliber conversions I think a 30-30 and a 357/38 special were $1589.