pskys2

If you have no interest in USPSA Revolver Division or Steel Challenge you don't need an 8 shot. 357 magnums/38 specials are the most economical and versatile in a Revovler. But in 8 shot, just cause and both of these can use moon clips (but it's not required), 627 Pro is a 4" w/the swapable FS and are around mid $800's. The 627 PC is a 5" w/swapable FS and goes around $1050. You can probably find deals though. Now if you go with a 6 shot in the same calibers a 6 shot is great, and there are competition divisions for them in IDPA or ICORE, go with an L Frame i.e. 686 or look for used even you can find deals on a plethora of S&W's for decent prices. In 6 shot you can't go wrong with a Ruger 6 shot too and usually a bit cheaper than S&W's and Rugers are built like tanks. If you buy used look for the following: 1) Rust/dents/dings/obvious damage. 2) Check the bore for bad rust or pitting. 3) Slowly cycle the DA trigger and at the end of the stroke for each chamber you should hear/feel a slight click as the bolt locks into the cylinder notch. If the hammer falls and you don't hear a click see if you can rotate the cylinder opposite of it's normal rotation. If it will rotate backwards then it has slow timing and pass. It can be fixed but takes a little knowledge and skill.

I like it, why you're even covered in case the 8 shot suddenly bulks up to .45 or the .45 wants to bellow fire with a magnum! Seriously does the front moon clip holder also work with you're 8 rd moon clips, either short colt or specials? Do like the holster, though the CR Speed mount is a real pain for me to get on or off. I'd like the DAA mount better, hmmm maybe?

-1 (not me) or is it +1 in stock? I very much doubt if the fit and finish are anything like the original. And not being in the beautiful Royal Blue, nah almost seems sacreligous in Stainless Steel. But that's just my opinion. But then I just can't convince myself, or afford either, to buy guns just 'cause they look good. All of mine are bought to use in competition, EDC or hunting. And they get used in that order so the numbers bought are also in that order.

Since you used both, is the lower window a major benefit vs the weight/bulk or just a minor one? Were you right on the right side vs left side?

No hate, enjoyed it. Hope the Dot flickering wasn't requiring a repair trip. Looks like a Venom? What Comp? Is it just clocked for recoil, it looked like it had a ridge/sharp edge towards the top. If it is clocked does it seem to help? What did you use for heat shielding on the hand guard?

I've been using a Vortex Venom 6 mil Red Dot for 2 years, 1st year on a G34 for CO and the last year on a 627 with an Alchin Mount. A buddy has a Sidewinder Mount on his 929 and I looked at it and didn't see much difference on the height but it did add a lot of weight. I had a Delta Point Pro on a JP mount and didn't like the 7.5 mil triangle on a pistol, but love it on my VR80. So my recommendation is a Vortex Venom 6 mil on an Alchin Mount. Note especially when first starting out, leave the FS on and you can use it to help find the Dot on draws and WH/SH stages. I like a FS height that does not show in the glass with the Dot centered. But especially on SH/WH stages if the Dot isn't right there I can tip the FS into the window and then go straight down and the Dot jumps into view.

I have a GP100, not the Redhawk though, and yes it is such that pushing ones thumb forward will trigger the latch. The latch actually has a pivot point at the front and a good sized bump for the latch, so pushing in or forward works. It is much easier than I thought it would be. The only problem is it's small and not extended. So my thumb won't reach without shifting my grip. There is an extended aftermarket unit made, just don't know by who.

I have a GP100, not the Redhawk though, and yes it is such that pushing ones thumb forward will trigger the latch. The latch actually has a pivot point at the front and a good sized bump for the latch, so pushing in or forward works. It is much easier than I thought it would be. The only problem is it's small and not extended. So my thumb won't reach without shifting my grip. There is an extended aftermarket unit made, just don't know by who.

That Colt Royal Blue was beyond compare wasn't it.

I ended up just operating the handle so the alignment pins were engaged then loosened the bolt holding the Tool Head on, wiggling it to settle everything in and then tightened back down without over torquing. Hitch went away so it was just a set up thing. It may be once I start actually using it I may have to go deeper but not now.

I wouldn't chase this too much. .007 isn't much I've seen it also not much difference than even factory rounds that get cycled into a 1911 over and over, i.e. my SD factory loads will lose that after maybe a dozen cycles of the first round into the chamber which is every 2 weeks for me as I don't leave a RIC at night. About the only time it matters to me is after a match. Then I just take the leftover rounds from moon clips and use them for practice, just because. Haven't had any issues even if I do use them in the next match though.

I'm pretty sure it was really to allow 9mm major in more sane pressures. But lord that was a long time ago, you've been away a while.

From everything I've heard the Python was a beautiful piece but very tempermental. Seems they ran out of time, due to the design, easily or quickly. So great to own & handle but not one to shoot a lot. But I only had a Colt MK III Trooper in the 1970's and I did like it but couldn't afford to shoot it much. One of those many I let go?

Yep Sprig that's exactly what it was doing and I'm sure that was why. Dwbsig mine was torqed down real tight too but pins looked good (had a spare Tool Head with it if need to I can use it) and with the ram all the way up everything loosened up and then lined up. Now I just need to get the basement finished so I can get back to it and hope I don't foul things up when I tear it all the way down to clean & lube it!

I'm pretty sure the manual says to fully raise the ram to lock in the tool head, will have to recheck. But tightening it seems to be best with it raised to align everything, as long as one doesn't over torque the thing.

Welcome if you're up around Ankenny Mike is the one to learn from. And if you can catch him off the lake he'll likely be willing to help you. Now he's nowhere near as "chatty" as I am though! But when he speaks, listen. A bunch of us around Kansas are gearing up for the Freestate Steel Challenge Area III Championship Match at DeSoto, Ks (just outside of KC) Sept. 24-27, 2020 using both Irons and Optic Sights. And the Freestate USPSA Match at the same range we're trying to get a full squad of Revolvers, just don't know the dates yet. Oh and get ready for the Midwest ICORE Regional June 13th at the old Chapman Academy now known as Green Valley. It's a bit different than USPSA, Time Plus scoring system puts a bit more emphasis on accuracy, but still fun!

Nah, the bottom feeders don't appreciate real guns and the skill it takes one to run them! Oh and CONGRATULATIONS and welcome to the fold!

Quite the simple fix. Raised the Ram then Loosened the Tool Head adjusted a bit and tightened down. Hitch is gone. Wonder if it had been tightened down without raising the ram. Thanks for the help guys.

Thanks, that will probably be it. Thanks to all who've responded.

More like Jerrius McSpeeeeeeeeedeeeee!!!!!

Ok just bought a used Super 1050 haven't run anything through it yet and can't until the basement is done (probably take me 2 more months AHHHH!). But in cycling I see the following issues: 1) The head doesn't return all the way up, needs a nudge. Sure the Toolhead Spring is weak and have a Level 10 Spring Kit on the way. 2) On the down stroke as the front Alignment Pin enters the Guide there is a noticable hitch. Looks like the Pin is rubbing on one side/front? of the Guide. It still works but the Shell Plate seems to have a bit of play? Have no idea how many rounds through it. Is this normal? Just need cleaned, lubed, tightened and adjusted or is it a symptom of a deeper issue? I'm a long time 550 user and pretty handy but looking for info so when I can get up and running I won't have to spend weeks extra.

Really I'm sure mine came with the tallest available, the 627 pro I had to upgrade though. Can't really check as the PC is at S&W getting a new trigger stud! Either way the .196 is great and I'm sure it's what JM used.

I have used them, liked Millets better (but no longer made) then I picked up a 627 PC which comes with a .196" tall rear sight notch and LOVED it. So now I do one of two things 1) buy the blade & kit and install (factory OEM so it fits) or 2) buy the assembly $55.99 https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1004431882?pid=242918 the blade alone (white outline) w/kit is 12.99.

Adding any weight to the slide/barrel has the effect of slowing the slide. Just go down in weight if your load is accurate.

I just finished my GP100 and while it is 1 lb heavier it feels as good (6 1/2 vs 5 1/2 lbs), if not better than my S&W's. Haven't shot it enough yet to verify it's reliability, but lit off a couple of cylinder fulls.