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SteelCityShooter

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    Finally read the FAQs

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  1. I don't think they use the same spring as blowback 9 mm (like the GMR) typically require a much heavier spring than a DI gun. JP is quite sluggish about responding to e-mails but try calling them directly. Talk to Ben if you can.
  2. Yes, on modern reflex red dots the arrows point to the direction the POI will move. That is true for the Vortex, Burris, Nikon, Leupold and other current red dots. The confusion might come from several earlier red dots that used a tiny (1.5 mm) hex key to adjust the zero. The arrows on the graduated dial that slipped over the hex key showed which way the DOT moved. I remember a very frustrating afternoon trying to zero a Ruger MkII with one of these red dots and assuming the arrows showed POI movement. It took several tries before I realized what was going on.
  3. I have one on a PCC using the included Picatinny base. It works well, was easy to zero and the dot is adequately bright even in full daylight. So far I'm very satisfied. And, yes, it's too bad they didn't use a common footprint like the Burris FFIII / Vortex Venom/ Viper.
  4. I purchased my 5" M&P9 2.0 almost two years ago when they first came out. Mine is, of course, in FDE which I'm not nuts about. I thought if I waited a little longer it would be available in black but I was impatient. Good thing I didn't wait.
  5. The videos are all posted on Apex's web site.
  6. Yes, oddly they do. The Apex springs don't so much increase the pull weight relative to the OEM trigger but return it to about the same pull weight. The "DCAE" kit is sold for "Duty Carry Action Enhancement" with some emphasis on Duty Carry. I.e., it's intended to improve the trigger pull quality but not reduce it to the point that an LEO is likely fire the gun inadvertently. In my gun installing just the sear, sear spring and striker block reduced the pull from 6+ pounds to 4 pounds but, more importantly, improved the pull quality and eliminated a noticeable "hitch" in the pull as the trigger bar pushes the OEM striker block out of the way. Since I don't use my M&P as a carry gun, the lighter pull is a bonus for me.
  7. After using a Shooting Chrony and Pact for a while and having them both hit by errant rounds (other shooters, not me) I finally splurged on a Magnetospeed. It is perfect for rifles and revolvers and most .22 LR fixed barrel pistols like the Ruger, Mk-series, S&W Victory, etc. It is usable for centerfire semi-auto pistols with Picatinny rail slots on the dust cover. Its benefits are that it is completely indifferent to ambient light so it works under daylight, florescent artificial light and in complete darkness. It also doesn't require you to go in front of the firing line to set it up or to change from one firearm to another and with any care in installation, you can't shoot it accidentally. Muzzle blast is completely ignored too. There is an SD card in the display that records all of your data for future access. I haven't figured out how to adapt it to other center fire semi-autos with no dust cover slots but there may be a way to do it. That isn't a problem for me and I love it's versatility and data handling capability.
  8. I made a brass catcher out of 1/2" PVC pipe and some Ts, Crosses and Ells. I built a 24" wide by 30" high rectangular frame with two extended feet to sit on a shooting bench and bought a couple of yards of polyester mesh from Joann Fabric to act as the netting. I solvent welded the base pieces together but left the remaining joints as slip-fits so I can disassemble it for storage. I have about $20 in it and it works well for both PCCs and pistols.
  9. I installed only the Apex DCAE kit (sear, sear spring and Ultimate striker block) in my 5" M&P9 2.0. I kept the stock trigger and springs. And yes, it was the kit made for the M&P .45. It transformed the trigger pull even though the 2.0 trigger was supposed to be an improvement over the 1.0 version. Pull is now 4 pounds even and very clean.
  10. Adjust it correctly and it requires a moderate amount of torque to remove. It's not going to fall off just by pulling the release lever.
  11. A reliable 10-round Glock magazine is the one for the G26. JP included one of them with my GMR15 even though I live in a non-restricted state and it's worked perfectly.
  12. Have you tried adjusting the sensitivity to a higher value? I had to set mine at "7" to get reliable readings with my M&P and the adapter.
  13. That's correct. Get it close to tight and then remove the barrel, tighten the nut one click and try fit it again. Continue one click at time until the barrel assembly installs snugly but does not require serious force. No tools needed.
  14. The problem with "auto-off/auto-on" for a truck gun is that the vehicle motion during driving will trigger the auto-on feature. The gun has to be absolutely stationary for the auto-off to stay off. +1 on the DPP. The batteries are common, cheap and very easy to change.
  15. Does not need it. The 2.0 grip inserts are VERY grippy and don't need any enhancements. A quick fix is a strip of adhesive backed "skateboard tape", also sold as traction tape for ladder rungs and steps. I've added thin strips of it to my 686's exposed backstrap and to the front strap and backstrap of my Ruger MkIV. It really works and clings very well.
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