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BallisticianX

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About BallisticianX

  • Rank
    Sees Sights Lift
  • Birthday 02/03/1981

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Saugerties, NY
  • Interests
    ICORE, USPSA, SCSA, Trap, Gunsmithing, Coyote Night Hunting, Traditional Muzzleloading, Precision Reloading, and Classic Cars.
  • Real Name
    Gus VanEtten

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  1. I would look to another powder vs Titegroup. I never had any luck with Titegroup in 9mm under any coated bullets. Titegroup has its place but 9mm lead loads has not been it for me!. I currently use A#2 in my 9mm lead minor loads. Accurate, clean, cool, and shoots soft. For 135 to 147gr lead WSF is another one that works well (Wsf is cleaner with heavier bullets at minor pf vs the lighter weight bullets). As another poster mentioned Sport pistol seems to be well acclaimed as well, I personally havent tried it yet.
  2. Spot on. Most standard seating dies are A; seating plug off center in relation to the die body, B; seating plug contour doesn't match the bullet profile and wont allow any self centering. The only way to effectively do away with bullet concentricity issues is to use a floating alignment sleeve type die. I have exclusively started using the Hornady Seating dies as they have an effective alignment sleeve design, are cheap, and agree with progressive presses. I had regular problems with Dillon, RCBS, and Lee (hate Lee stuff) seating dies tipping bullets. When I switched to a Hornady floating alignment die I know have zero bullet concentricity issues.
  3. The mouth of the Catskill Creek at the Hudson River is in the Town of Catskill of which is the next Town North of me.
  4. Check the thumb piece, if the screw is not staying tight enough or the portion that sits in the frames recess is worn it could be rotating inducing drag and binding causing your problem. Take the thumb piece off and see if it moves more freely. Take special care when installing the thumb piece to make sure you center it to the frame recess.
  5. The finger lakes region and Seneca is still a good 200 miles from me. I’m in the mid-Hudson valley of N.Y. about 50 miles south of Albany in the foothills of the Catskill mtns. A.K.A the NYC & NJ tourist region. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Unfortunately your not close or I’d give you some 158 RN berry’s I got kickin around.
  7. I agree with you, all pistols and even revolvers these days come over sprung. Thats why I had ordered a fat guide rod w/15lb spring for easy spring changes before I had the gun in hand. I never actually fired the gun with the stock spring/guide rod in it. Totally forgot about that. I've since settled on the feel of the 13lb with vigorous ejection.
  8. After reading another members post about shooters world "major pistol" and its similarities to A#7 I did a little research as Im an avid #7 user and Ill pass along what I found for the curious among us: Major Pistol a.k.a Lovex D037.1 is made in the Chech Republic by Explosia and A#7 is made in USA (by St. Marks). Seems like no connection, but wait...theres more...Prior to Western Powders purchasing Accurate Arms Company over a decade ago most all the Accurate Powders were Produced by Explosia in the Chech Republic. When Western powder bought Accurate in 2004/05 they severed with Explosia shortly after and contracted with St. Marks (of which was an Olin Company or affiliate) to mimic the Chech made powders for production. So both these powders were modeled after one another and are near the same with the same bulk density but made with different methods so they are very similar but not necesarily interchangeable. So after comparing some older load data on accurate powders with today's Shooters World data it is looking like many of the Shooters world powders may just be the pre-2005 Accurate line up rebranded. With that, one more thing to mention: the bad rap that A#7 had back in the early 2000's about being abrasive, whether true or not, that era's #7 is most likely the same carried on formula your getting from shooters world today as Major Pistol. Whereas todays A#7 is manufactured under a different company. As a bonus to tie it all together one of the Managing Partners of Shooters World used to work for St. Marks.
  9. If the slide is milled on an angle it was, Id guess, done with best intentions based on the sight line to bore line parallelism. ... but not necessary. Ive milled many a slide for direct mini dot mounting (Glock, M&P, SIG, 1911). I always mill the footprint parallel to the slide center line (indicated parallel to the cutters x axis), never been a problem as the sight window is close enough to the bore that the sight and bore planes aren't separated enough to where a sights adjustment will be stressed in any semi on the market. With optic mounts affixed to a frame on a 1911/2011 thats a unique circumstance. Your hoisting the sight window further away from the bore with the 1911's 1 degree pitched down muzzle (slightly more with a shorty). Now your sight plain and bore line are separated more dramatically and both intersecting planes are skewed considerably. Then consider more often than not a fulls size c-more with it taller lens height is used in that application so its even more skewed and sight adjustment range is stressed. So based on that circumstance open gun builders began incorporating the same corresponding 1 degree angle in either the mount itself or with the screw pattern to address that. That's the only hand gun application I can think of where an angle needs to be considered in an optic mount foot print.
  10. 3 in/lb of torque is equal to 0.25 ft/lbs. Considering your looking at the 12 in/lb range with a ferrous fastener of which is just "snug" in layman's terms ...other than NASA assemblies or fasteners of #4 and smaller thats an acceptable margin of error without concern.
  11. Nailed it. When I shoot the gun off the bench testing loads I always know when the last round has been striped out of the mag ...the red dot will shift up at the start of the trigger press.
  12. The "cornmeal" is normal in some powders. Most of the Old standby Winchester branded ball powders always did it. You may be right because ball pistol powders in the Western Powder line (Accurate/Ramshot) are manufactured By St. Marks Powders of which manufactured those "cornmealing" winchester ball powders as well. Lastly The one founder of Shooters world worked for St. Marks Powder according to their website. So the ties are there and it very well could be just relabeled Accurate powder from St. Marks or knowing the formula may have his major supplier Lovex duplicate it in Europe.
  13. Sounds like you have a good plan. Do yourself a favor and make sure those 147 TC dont have too much of a flat at the nose. Those 7 flats could be like brakes stopping that clip from dropping if its just out of alignment with the charge holes. For sticking reloads I run RN, nothing better to self center.
  14. Calipers can not adequately measure an inside bore as the jaw flats dont hit the exact crown of the radius. As another said using pin gauges is the correct tool. You can also use an adjustable hole gauge you can set and then measure with a mic. Optimum conditions are the throats to be the same dimension of the bullet and no larger than .001" over, and the bullet sized to seal the guns bore diameter. For example if you have a .357" bore you'll want bullets sized between .357" & .358" for lead/standard plated and .357" for jacketed and any heavy plated. So therefore your throats would be best at .358" to best use a .357 or .358 bullet. Now if your throats are .3565" and your bore remains at .357" than you may be able to get away with a .357 bullet but a .358" will induce leading and possible accuracy degrading. Without slugging your bore Id say find the throat diameters and get the nearest bullet diameter slightly larger and run them and check for accuracy and leading. If it seems fine then be done with it. If its not and you want to remedy it then here's my suggestion. Get yourself a couple hones from brush research and work them to out (youll need a pin gauge to check your progress) I myself open them up to .358" to allow for .358 lead bullets but found no issues with accuracy or velocity when I shoot .357 jacketed thru them.
  15. Crap buildup in this area is normal for revos and lead bullets. But excessive buildup despite regular cleaning is not. The 929 is an interesting beast as its basically made to the same spec as any 38/357 revolver in respect to the cylinder chambers, throats, and bore dimensions. So with a 9mm being stuffed into essentially a 38/357 revolver with a shorter cylinder it posses some further challenges to be problem free IMHO. But here are some general checks to maybe help determine the cause; So depending on which end of the tolerances your dimensions fall on the bullet diameter with lead bullets is crucial in all Smithy's. S&W has a reputation for sending out cylinders with tighter throats than the bore diameter. So if you are sending .358" lead bullets thru a .3565" throat it will buildup lead from the squeeze and each subsequent shot will bulldoze it out and deposit it around the cylinder gap and in the bore. Pin gauges are the tool to check this but in a pinch take a confirmed bullet of .356", .357", and .358" and drop them into a clean cylinder and see what one drops thru the throat easy and what one gives slight resistance or what one needs to be pushed thru with a hammer and punch etc. That will give you a close idea as to where your at. Now with the cylinder gap; the size of your gap determines how much of the deposits blow out between the gap or stay blown into the barrel. Seeing you have an .008" gap which is on the high side of the .004-.010" allowance (.005" is optimum) it will spit more particles and exhibit more buildup on the outside of the barrel to frame area. Its always a good idea to check your timing as well in regards to cylinder to bore alignment. The 929 cylinder is notorious for cylinder wear issues (as apparently you've noticed with your wife's needing a new ratchet/extractor). If the timing is off and the cylinder fails to reach the cylinder stop that would induce a right side favored misalignment. You can usually eyeball the forcing cone area on a dirty revolver and notice abnormal wear and/or visibly uneven deposits in the first 1/8" of the cone ID. Another simple test on a clean revolver is to lay your left thumb against the side of the cylinder (the uninterrupted space between the notches and flutes) with light pressure and stroke the gun slowly with your right hand in double action and watch/listen for the cylinder stop to fall in the cylinder notch before the hammer reaches full stroke and is released. Good luck and hope you get it figured out.
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