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BallisticianX

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About BallisticianX

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  • Birthday 02/03/1981

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    Male
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    Saugerties, NY
  • Interests
    ICORE, USPSA, SCSA, Trap, Gunsmithing, Coyote Night Hunting, Traditional Muzzleloading, Precision Reloading, and Classic Cars.
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    Gus VanEtten

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  1. I didnt watch the videos so I cant comment on if its overly bad smoking. But if all the powders are smoking with the same bullet equally and you feel its excessive smoke Id assess its the bullet coating. I will say with my experience with TG is it does not play well with coated lead bullets in any of the higher pressure cartridges like 9mm, 38 super, and 40, especially 9mm. It does however work with lower pressure rounds like 38 spcl and 45 with good accuracy and no more than usual smoke. I reserve TG for plated/jacketed in 9mm, 38 Super, and 40. For heavier coated lead bullets in 9mm (135gr+) I actually like WSF. Soft, accurate, clean, and no major smoke. Herco used to be the go to for 9's with heavier lead pills and WSF is regarded as its best replacement and I can say it works well.
  2. BallisticianX

    38 super comp brass

    Glad you dont have blowouts. Fact is the 9mm case walls & webb are not as strong as super as it was not designed for the pressures major puts on it. You cant argue that fact. So shooting major in a 9 repeatedly is a higher potential for case failure than a 38 Super, again its facts. So if you choose to take a calculated risk thats your choice. If its worked out then thats great too. I am merely displaying factual info. Oh and by the way My dont skimp comment was directed as a general comment to not skimp and sell you and your gun short no matter what you use.
  3. BallisticianX

    38 super comp brass

    One fired 38 SC brass...a unicorn Ive yet to harness. Saw some questions about how many times you can load 9mm major and 38 SC; 9 major once and your good as long as your range brass was without bulges to begin with, load it twice and its a high risk for blow out, load it 3 times and your more daring than Evil Knievel! With 38 SC starline Ive loaded it 7 times without issue so honestly you'll probably lose it at a match before you exceed it usable life. Bottom line: 9 major is thought to be cheaper and more convenient with range brass. My thought is no, it isnt; cheaper as you might not be paying for brass but it stops there. In order to combat what condition that range brass is in to prevent problems you really need to inspect it and base size it in case of any bulges. That equipment costs money and it takes time. Trust me a bad case will blow out and lock up the gun! So now your doing all that to let it hit the ground for a one time use. I don't see the savings or convenience in it. As mentioned if you buy new brass its about equal cost between the two and again your shooting the 9's once where the 38 SC you can load again. Finally I've owned both and the 38 SC allows for more options in powders and can be made to shoot flatter. So my final thoughts are if your gonna spend 5k+ on the Top Fuel Dragster of the handgun world you shouldn't be worried about skimping on what fuel you put in it to sacrifice the performance you invested in!
  4. BallisticianX

    2400 in .357 LSWC confusion

    The OP mentions load data variables all over the place, most likely because of the varying bullet hardness used in developing that data from one book to another. Also I saw some comments that his load is too hard for lead to be pushed...lead pills pushed that hard can be done as it was pioneered by Phil Sharpe & Elmer Kieth and they had great success. That success without leading for longevity in accuracy was with good bullet lubes and bullets believe it or not with a BHN of 10-12! Todays production cast pills have mostly gone "hardball" around BHN of 18-20. As have coated bullets. There is no advantage to it other than to better withstand deformity in bulk packaged boxes during handling. Despite the thought you need a hard bullet to withstand higher velocities you don't. A softer alloy, to a point of course, will seal and mold itself to the bore and with good lube will not wipe off much lead in the bore. Hard alloys generally need the rifling to cut into the bullet displacing lead away from the bullet in order to conform to the bore resulting in loose deposits coating the bore. One last thing, I always had better accuracy with W296 in the .357 than 2400.
  5. BallisticianX

    9mm Major powder choices?

    When I used to shoot 9 major (I prefer 38 SC these days) I tried a few powders early on and the two I liked the most were HS6 and Sil. Then WAC is a distant 3rd. I saw less pressure sign with HS-6 at PF vs. WAC & Sil. Also my comp worked more efficiently and felt flatter with HS-6 followed by Sil then WAC. WAC felt violently sharp with more rise than the other two. I settled on HS6. I admittedly never played with any of the Shooters World or Vecton to compare them. I will say that in 9 major the slower the powder you can comfortably fit in the case the better. Lessens the potential for higher chamber pressures to batter the gun and case failure. Not to mention it will run that comp better in most cases.
  6. BallisticianX

    X-Treme Bullets - anyone buying lately?

    I just saw the shipping is $20 flat rate for 26 to 50lbs.
  7. BallisticianX

    Hodgdon Titegroup vs VV N320 for 9mm

    Ive worked with both powders quite a bit over the years and both powders are fine specimens. Just like anything else they have areas they are great in and some that its not best suited. Comparing a powder to another powder in generalities is unrealistic. TG is in the fast class of Handgun Powder whereas N320 is in the more medium class. Two different speeds so that will compliment different ends of a spectrum with a single caliber. Ill do my best to sum up my experience with the popular hand gun range. TG is a fine powder in 38 spcl, 40, 45, 38 super and 9mm as is N320....but with caveats to both. The complaint of how hot TG gets is somewhat true but embellished on in my opinion.. Its not overwhelmingly hotter than any other powder after a long session at the range, the gun is gonna be hot after rapidly firing a hundred rounds without a break no matter what powder your burning. After firing a typical stage I never noticed my guns anymore hot vs. from anything else. With coated bullets Ive noticed TG in any high pressure rounds like 9mm, 38 super, or 40 the accuracy is not consistent (especially 9mm) and is a bad choice. In low pressure like 38 spcl and 45's it usually shows me the best accuracy with coated bullets. N320 delivers accurate results across the high pressure rounds with coated bullets and blows TG away in that spectrum. However with plated or Jacketed in 9mm, & 38 Super, & 40 Ive usually found TG and N320 perform closely with an advantage concerning ES going to TG. With Plated or Jacketed in 38 spcl (and most other varients) & 45 TG yields more accuracy then N320. The one exception is the 38 Short Colt, N320 wins in that round with any bullet in a modern 38 or .357 cylinder. Smokiness; TG smokes with coated or cast in the higher pressure rounds, in lower pressure ones it smokes no more than N320. Both equal in Plated or Jacketed. Loading: In my Hornady L-N-L thrower both meter equally well. Both powders work better with Hotter loads. TG mainly because it has a close window of charge range so you dont have a choice. With N320 Ive just found it's inconsistent in most rounds when loaded at min to middle charge weights, more so with large case volume rounds like the 38 spcl and 45. Cleanliness, they both are pretty clean, N320 has a slight edge in higher pressure rounds regarding soot and TG better in lower pressure rounds as theres no singed kernals like with N320. Either way not enough to be a dealbreaker to either one. Cost; thats a personal referendum (if even applicable) that is up to you to decide if you wanna save or spend. I will mention if you desire N320 characteristics and want it cheaper Ive found A# 2 is near identical in burn rate and mirrors feel, cleanliness, velocity range, and close in charge weight. I have converted all my N320 fed guns to A# 2 and have been pleased.
  8. BallisticianX

    Montana Gold vs Precision Delta

    In my 2 open supers , one a govt slide and the other a shorty, I tried PD, MG, & Zero HP's with different powders and found a negligible velocity difference with the Zero & PD and MG slightly slower with all powders used (A#7, 3N38, Autocomp, & Sil). The recoil impulse was also consistent with each bullet within a specific powder. As far as accuracy they were again all equal. I encountered the same results in my M&P9 with a KKM barrel within the powder range for that gun. I didnt notice you mentioning what handgun your shooting so I will round off my experience and feelings on the bullet discussion in a handgun. A 30-40 fps difference between a bullet brand is a .1-.2 grain difference within most pistol powder and its not gonna effect feel or cost enough to fixate on it. Also found that higher end barrels (Schuemann, KKM, Bar-Sto etc) tend to perform with most bullets pretty consistently. So bullet choice becomes less of a concern with reputable offerings. Some brand OEM production barrels do have the potential to be more picky with projectile choice so it could however be a concern with "stock" guns. But remember in the handgun practical world a 1/4-1/2 difference in group size say at 20 yards doesn't mean much so dont get to caught up in that. Be more concerned with powder for the desired velocity and how it correlates to recoil impulse your looking for moreover than the bullet, thats gonna greatly improve your shooting vs which bullet shoots a 1/2 tighter group etc. Then the cost of said bullet, the less you spend means the more you can buy and the more you will shoot, again improving your ability. So in conclusion, by all means test bullets and try a few different powders, determine if any one bullet out shoots another by considerable margin in your gun. If they all run close then choose the more cost effective bullet and focus on what powder makes it feel best.
  9. BallisticianX

    Roll crimp for moon clips?

    As previously said the crimp is not the issue. Clear up some misinformation first: -- I taper crimp my target revolver rounds without an issue and holds the bullets in place just fine with no bullet deformity and is the proper type of crimp for smooth body bullets!. -- Roll crimping is only used if you have a crimp groove/cannulure on the bullet and is mostly beneficial for heavy recoiling magnum loads. -- A roll crimp applied to a bullet without a crimp groove will roll and bury the case mouth into the bullet with deformity, and with lead bullets loose lead shavings to increase barrel fouling. Your problem: Many things effect moonclips just dropping in. 1. Brass: In your case .38 Brass brands have different extractor groove dimensions, there is no SAAMI standard for extractor grooves on .38's so they are all over the place between brands. So properly mating brass brand to moonclip is important. Your brass should spin freely once seated into the clip, if it cant spin or is loose enough to barely be held in place it will be a problem. TK Custom has the most comprehensive line of clips to match to what brands (TK's are the Smith factory supplier of clips). keep brass clean. Dirty brass (like dropped in the dirt or sand) or corroded brass can jam up a clip drop too. 2. Clip straightness; a bent clip causes rounds to lean in or out and will stunt the drop in...check clips for straightness using a known perfectly flat surface and if bent replace them! 3. Cylinder Charge hole condition; a 627 extractor is notorious for its cut not lining up on the inside (closest to the ratchet) with the charge hole in the cylinder body itself. You end up with a knife edged "ledge" protruding out just below the extractor. This will catch a case and stop the clip dead. You need to break that edge with a fine stone or a bullet point fine polishing bit. Also visibly check that the charge holes walls inside are smooth without burrs, carbon rings, grit etc. With what happens at Smith these days its a crap shoot how good or bad the finish is in there. If you get tightly spec'd charge holes due to tooling wear this is going to require clean cylinders moreover for reliable clip drops. I always polish the charge hole walls with an 800 grit Flex-hone cylinder honing brush (400 if there esepecially tight or rough then finish with 800). Only takes a few seconds in a power drill to each charge hole and makes a big difference in moonclip drops and extractions. Hope this helps
  10. BallisticianX

    686 cylinder pin keeps loosening.

    I simply clamp the extractor rod in a padded aluminum jaw vise insert, insert two fired and expanded cases a few chambers apart and use an allen wrench in between them. Make sure to leave the empty cases hanging out far enough that the allen wont come in contact with the side of the ratchet. A light snug is all you need to tighten. Ive never damaged, marred, or deformed an extractor rod with a padded soft jaw vise. One thing to check if you have chronic loosening is the shoulder contact between the rod, rod collar, and and extractor. The shoulders should mate up relatively square for 360 degree contact between all three parts. Thus creates the perfect frictional fit to keep tight. If the shoulders are obviously not square to each other it may promote loosening. NEVER grab hold of the cylinder to initiate loosening or tightening the extractor rod! you will twist and deform the ends of the star, (bend the pins in older cylinders) or loosen the fit to the breached "d" hole in the cylinder to extractor...all of which will effect timing! I also do not recommend loctite on the threads. Its unnecessary and only adds to the stress and strain on the parts when disassembling later on. If anything I put a single drop of light oil on the rod threads to prevent galling (especially on stainless) so again it will come apart easily without damage. I have never had a rod come loose with this method and Im running my revos hard to the tune of 10-14k rounds annually between ICORE, USPSA, and steel.
  11. BallisticianX

    Autocomp ignition issues

    Slower powders with light charges at the starting to mid charge weight usually shows unburnt powder or singed kernals.
  12. BallisticianX

    My barrel looks Stoned..A tale of WTF!

    Me too but Ill probably never know. Another place for weird happenings is Numerich Gun Parts. They are 10 miles away from my home and when they had a walk in counter I was there often and had a lot of odd issues.
  13. BallisticianX

    subsonic .22lr & bolt cycling

    RWS HP Subsonics, a bit pricey but the most accurate subsonics I've tried and very quiet. But they are on the edge of cycling an OEM 10/22 bolt and spring. I found the cheaper effective fix to adjust the cycling for subsonic ammo is the KIDD recoil spring kit. It comes with 3 springs; a standard (close to OEM power), a 10% lighter, and 10% heavier and a guide rod for $9.95. The Kidd aluminum bolt handles are $20. The medium spring is slightly less powered than the Ruger OEM spring and with the KIDD aluminum bolt handle works reliably with my OEM bolt to cycle subsonics both unsuppressed or suppressed (got to try it suppressed in TN thanks to my cousin owning one). The 10% lighter spring will definitely work for all subs with OEM bolt un-suppressed or suppressed. So for $30 your good to go. I will mention the Kidd springs will work with the Ruger OEM bolt handle/rod but you'll need to un-stake the guide rod to change but you'll be sacrificing the reciprocating mass savings with the OEM steel handle vs aluminum Kidd one. .
  14. BallisticianX

    Converting Tanfo 38S to 9mm Major in Gold Team

    Just my .02...I owned a Tanfo Gold Team new large frame in 9mm bought new about 3 years ago. It was an unreliable; chronically failing to eject. Despite parts changes, tweaks, trips to the distributor, and an experienced tanfo gunsmith it only improved marginally and never could be made to run dependable enough for matches. From the various reading I did to figure out a solution I saw much eluding to the unavailable to the US smaller frame being better suited for 9's and the larger frame available in the US has issues with 9's but will run supers reliably. So unless something has changed in the Tanfo recently my advice is to stay with the super and just shoot it. The "savings" in brass does not outweigh the reliability and confidence of the gun. Not to mention most go to 9 for range brass to account for the savings and convenience. In major your gonna have to roll size or base size all that brass to prevent any bulges so you dont lock up the gun with pinched/blown out brass. So again ask yourself if the dollars saved on brass warrant the equipment to roll/base size and time to do it?
  15. BallisticianX

    Best Budget 1911 Ignition parts

    As others have said EGW is top notch. But for a budget and decent quality Fusion Firearms is what I've often used. Don't see much mention of them around the net despite the good quality parts I've experienced. I have used their parts in various personal guns and currently have two 1911's with their hammers in them. One in a STI Spartan gut and rebuild and another in a dedicated 2011 frame for a .22 conversion upper. Both have tons of rounds through them and no problems or wear related issues. I will say be prepared to stone down the hammer hooks on a fusion hammer to get to the .030" height, they leave them oversized in that area for ability to fit up to anything.
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