pskys2

Really I'm sure mine came with the tallest available, the 627 pro I had to upgrade though. Can't really check as the PC is at S&W getting a new trigger stud! Either way the .196 is great and I'm sure it's what JM used.

I have used them, liked Millets better (but no longer made) then I picked up a 627 PC which comes with a .196" tall rear sight notch and LOVED it. So now I do one of two things 1) buy the blade & kit and install (factory OEM so it fits) or 2) buy the assembly $55.99 https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1004431882?pid=242918 the blade alone (white outline) w/kit is 12.99.

Adding any weight to the slide/barrel has the effect of slowing the slide. Just go down in weight if your load is accurate.

I just finished my GP100 and while it is 1 lb heavier it feels as good (6 1/2 vs 5 1/2 lbs), if not better than my S&W's. Haven't shot it enough yet to verify it's reliability, but lit off a couple of cylinder fulls.

I've done 5 and the last one cut as well as the 1st? As long as you don't rotate in a CCW rotation, against the cutting edge, it should last years.

I shoot 38 short colt and use a Taper Crimp 9mm die. Works good, I'd expect it to work as well with the 9mm. Might try what you have first and then if you do have issues go with the short colt roll crimp.

Rounds fired from other guns that one reloads for their guns with tight chambers need a tight sizing die. Now if one uses only new brass and/or brass only ever fired in their guns it is a non-issue.

Ummm what Recoil Spring are you using? I'm down to a 9# from my 9mm 1911 TA (RIA). To check the Extractor Tension: 1) take off the slide and remove the barrel 2) slide a loaded round under the extractor, you should feel resistance as it slides up the breech face a) the case should have full contact with the breech face (if not you may need to cut the back face of the extractor to obtain this) b) the angled face of the extractor should not bear upon the case either (it can touch but it's better to have a slight gap) 3) rotate the slide and the round should stay put, it shouldn't wiggle around a) if it does wiggle, or worse slides out, you can try bending the extractor b) if bending doesn't help you will need to remove material from the pad behind the extractor tip so the extractor bears more on the rim 4) finally make sure the bottom edge of the extractor channel the rim rides up into is beveled One or both of these issues should solve the problem.

I ran into that with Bayou 160 coated RN. I just had to load out to 1.180" and the problem went away. I could've gone out to 1.200" if needed. The issue is the web at the base doesn't seem to be as consistent in the Starline Case (this may be a common issue too and in longer cases it just doesn't show up) , or an occassional build up of coating/lack of sizing? Since it was fairly common and got worse the deeper I seated the bullet I figured the case was the problem. With Jacketed being more uniform just reinforces my thoughts. I'm pretty sure at least one top shooter uses that bullet and SC cases, loaded in bulk, and I never heard him complain about it. But if it makes one more engaged, shoot more (i.e. practice) and feel confident in their gear I'm all in favor of it and they are on the right track!

Is there some advantage time/money/performance to using cut down brass vs short colt/long colt? Or even using regular 38 special brass from starline? Maybe I'm just getting lazy in my old age, but I'd rather shoot, chase the wife, or wander around the woods than spend time trimming brass. I know there is an advantage with using starline brass and tight moonclips, TK or Hearthco. I've even used tight moonclips with starline 357 magnums (full loads for fun) and had no issues. The only issues I could forsee is in extraction as the rounds had no wobbles and fell right into the cylinder.

You can buy a blade and replace it if you need/want a deeper notch. Dawson carries FS's of varying sizes.

I like the factory .160" (tallest sight with the deepest notch they have) RS Blade w/NO White Outline. Then a Weigand, Dawson or SDM Fiber Optic FS usually .250" or .300" tall x .100" to .125" wide. I like the deepest and widest Rear Sight notch available. For the FS some like a lot of light on each side (then pick the .100) I like a more traditional light bar on each side so I use the .110" or .125" wide FS.

Depends? If you only use 9mm brass that comes from your gun, it makes no difference. This is recommended anyway due to settling on a brand of brass that fits your moon clips tightly without binding. If you are planning on using range brass, especially if it's scrounged at a USPSA Match with Open guns then you might consider a set of small base dies from EGW or Lee. They will remove the bulges that can happen with 9mm major. The Dillon Dies have a more gradual taper into the die to optimize the case going into the die with no hang ups. For my Production/SS guns in 9mm I use the Lee die with minimal issues, I will rarely have a case hang up going into the die and then requires a slower pace. I use a 550, if I had a 1050 it would be more of an issue.

If you stick with Starline Brass it matters not whether you go with SC or Special as the rim and groove diameters are consistent so you can use the tight TK or Hearthco Moonclips.

I've always had to go to a taller FS and I like a Fiber Optic. The 5" PC model has the classic FS it just snaps out so changing is easy.

I just picked up a 627 pro for Open with a Dot so the sight radius isn't an issue. Have a Ruger GP100 I picked up at the MW ICORE Regional and just finished slicking it up, while the pull is about a pound heavier than my slicked up 627 PC it does "feel" as light. Plus so far it's lit everything I put in it. So if you can get a Redhawk 8 shot for $800 and want to shoot Limited, that would be the ticket. I think Olhasso shoots one, so it must be good.

Yep, right back at ya! HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL REVO'S, oh and ALL of the shooting fraternity!

The other issue with spent (even seemingly spent) is the cup compresses with each strike. At some point, seems to me less than a hundred dry fire snaps, you have lost the expected cushion and are back to bouncing the shoulder of the pin off of the frame. I use spent cases, not resized, with the primers in them to practice i.e. snap on empty case w/spent primer & no bullet, eject moon clip w/spent cases, reload with dummy cases w/silicone filled primer pockets, snap multiples to work on transitions and splits. I then cycle the empty spent cases out after a few weeks. There is a definite difference in the feel of a fired case being ejected vs a resized case.

I never put a bullet on a case with a spent primer, unless a hole is drilled into the side of the case. Reason is, especially with firearms utilizing lightened primer striking power, you can have a dud/misfire get into the mix (how would one know by sight?) and then fire at some point later when practicing. I have had numerous instances of it taking multiple strikes, or a heavier strike, to fire. I have only had one that did not ultimately fire, and that was recently with a factory magtech 9mm round. IMHO it is just not worth the risk! https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-symantec-ext_onb&hsimp=yhs-ext_onb&hspart=symantec&p=lets+be+safe+out+there+video#id=1&vid=de8e3c1a0747d21af39aec330326acb4&action=click

Can also use Silcone Caulking.

Not really dry fire a 1911 as much as a Revolver, remember you can get 6 to 8 strikes with a Revo vs 1 strike, rack slide, repeat, and the FP retainer will crack and/or the spring will wear. For my 1911's I went to the trouble of cutting a piece of Leather to replace the FP Stop, then removed the FP & Spring. If you had "the works" they may have replaced the FP Spring with a weaker/competition spring. That can lead to quicker failure. I'd also be curious what they used C&S, Apex, Factory?

I throw the 20 round drum in my CED Shooting Bag and the 5 and 10 round mags fit into a dual shooting baglong pocket.

Multi-Gun is definitely time/money/effort intensive. It may have reached a saturation point. It may level off, or may shrink more. But with the economy booming and similar factors it may be that it is harder to break free for a whole day for a multi-gun match, around here it is 6+hours. Whereas a typical USPSA match is usually 4- 5 hours. With family and work that extra 2+ hours on a non-work day can be a factor. I just started last year off and on. One reason why I don't go more than a couple of times a year is the time factor. And there's just not much that can be done about it.

Really, that might be an incentive? What #? 135 (original USPSA annual #, just as a reminder) 593 (current USPSA #, consistent & easier to remember) 1354 (current ICORE #) Hmmmmm?

1) Plated bullets are the most likely to pull in a Revolver 2) One reason why Revolver specific bullets have crimping grooves 3) In any caliber case wall thickness, and probably quality of material, many years ago I wouldn't use remington 38 super brass in my open guns due to case thickness. With them it was because no matter how much crimp you applied the bullets would telescope in. 4) Factory ammo used to have some sealant at the bullets, I'd guess that the cheaper ammo has done away with that. 5) The heavier the bullet the more likely to pull, had a M29 I shot 44 russians out of with 240 lead RN that I Roll Crimped into the Crimping Groove and with enough firings (say same round fired in 2 cylinders before actual firing of that round) the bullet would pull free of the roll crimp. 6) You don't want to Roll Crimp a Jacketed Bullet without a Cannelure, it will collapse the case very quickly. A light Taper Crimp with Jacketed with, or without, a Cannelure will work. 7) Taper Crimping can be crimped into a Cannelure and a Crimping Groove pretty aggressively. 8) Taper Crimping, vs Roll Crimping, is much less case length specific. If you shoot many times fired brass the case length will be vared and sometimes by quite a bit. A Roll Crimp set for a shorter case can crumple a round. Or raise a bulge large enough to cause chambering issues. 9) If you Roll (which can be done in Plated Bullets even without a Cannelure) or Taper Crimp too much in a Plated Bullet it can pierce the plating and can lead to separation from the bullet. I had this happen at a Nationals in 2008, the back piece stayed in the bore and left a third hole in the close target. Luckily didn't hurt the gun, just caused me to hesitate. 10) As for Factory Ammo, the cheaper the ammo the more likely the issues. I have some Magtech 9mm that are giving me fits with misfires. At first I thought it was the light stikers/mainsprings. But now I've come to the conclusion it's a bit more as some won't even fire with a factory glock stirker/spring. It was really cheap, guess I got what I paid for? I've had good luck using Taper Crimping with heavy Coated Bullets in my 627 with no crimp groove. The bullet pull you describe is definitely a BIG problem. I'd not use them at all. Unless you can take a few and apply a slightly heavier taper crimp to see if that will help.