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The S&W 340PD series had/have a problem with the frames cracking around the ejector rod cutout/barrel... I haven't noticed any cracks on mine but I do look after every range session.

Ruger 22/45, snapped a firing pin once and have a VQ extractor standing by... Have the original 5.5" bull upper with irons and a MKIII Tactical/threaded upper with red-dot.

Does anyone have any loads for this lead bullet? I have Bullseye, Clays, Titegroup on hand but am thinking up another powder/primer order...

Get her a Glock and you get the 5" 625 back... Could also try white out or that liquid electrical tape in the color you prefer.

I rebarreled my Armalite AR-10T due to being a 1-2moa rifle. The rifle was sub-moa when first purchased but was a jam-o-matic and was returned... When I got it back it functioned flawlessly but was not as accurate so ordered the LW-50 tube. (LW barrels come with the bolt head and barrel tenon installed so no worries about headspace issues when assembling.) My brother and another friend have DPMS Panther .308 Carbines and they are VERY accurate out of the box and cycle flawlessly, it's a good platform to start off with especially for the $$$. I can say that my AR-10 is MORE accurate now but obviously it is not stock and I have almost double the money invested into it, I need to put it up against an OBR now just to see if it compares...

Bump: Just received a Black-dog holster for the Ruger .22 Semi-automatic pistols. This holster can be used with just about any scope rail on the top of the receiver as long it does not go more than 2" over the front of the receiver tube. This holster has clearance for the bottom barrel rail on the MkIII tacticals. This holster can also be ambidextrous as it can be converted to either left or right side, pretty clever. My pistol, 5.5" MKII 22/45, snaps in solid and can swallow longer barrels without any issues but if it's too long the front sight "might" hook the end of the holster when drawing. This holster WILL NOT clear the So-Low scope mounts... This holster WILL NOT clear the VQ muzzle compensator...

I have an Armalite and would recommend the DPMS platform as the magazine options and manufacturers are more abundant. Can get a billet upper/lowers for the DPMS platform pretty reasonable. With that said, I have a custom Walther LW-50 22" barrel, Paladin .750" 3-position gas block, PRS stock, Armalite-Carbine buffer weight, TUBBs CWS weights, JP V-tac X-tended length forend, Geissele SD Enhanced trigger, and a Benny Rolling Thunder muzzle brake... I also have a good eight or so Armalite AR-10 20rd mags. This is topped off with a GG&G 20moa scout rail and a Nightforce NXS 3.5-15x50 NP-R1 scope.

Took mine apart and found a weld "booger" on the hammer which engraved a track into the side plate. (explained my poor trigger)

Most of my scopes for my powderburners are Nightforce NXS series, my brother has his own collection as well and dwarfs mine. One was purchased new at $1200 many years ago and was a 5.5-22x56 NPR2, it is mounted on a Armalite AR30M in .338Lapua. Scope has been moved to a few other rifles but sits on top of the Lapua again, listen to what others are telling you about the 56mm objective. I purchased two used NXS scopes off of the snipershide classifieds at a REALLY good deal and both scopes were flawless. One was a 2.5-10x32 NPR1 with zero stop and this is mounted on a Larue Stealth AR-15. The other scope is a 3.5-15x50 NPR1 with zero stop and that it mounted on a AR-10T that has recently been rebarreled with a custom LW-50 tube along with a couple of other goodies... This scope is mounted on a GG&G 20moa base rail and is sighted in at 200yds without issues. The NXS F1 scopes look AWESOME but are very pricey, otherwise just remember to set the scope at the certain power when you do your ranging or it will be off and you will miss your target. I do have a AI AE with a USO ST17 17x58mm with a MOA type reticle and MOA knobs, the 58mm objective is HUGE and the scope is HEAVY especially with the ERGO and EREK options. Optical clarity is NOT much better than the NXS scope line... I have no doubt that I could use this thing to hammer my NXS scopes and then remount it to shoot a itty bitty group, but I will not be doing that in this lifetime. I also have a Zeiss Conquest which has GOOD optics, in my opinion and others the optics a better than the NXS and USO line BUT these scopes have 1" tubes and limited MOA so it might be unsuitable for some platforms. The internals of this scope are in high regard as they can withstand pounding by a Barrett .50, but the scope did eventually cracking it's reticle... (met the guy at the range who broke it) Another scope with the best glass that I have seen to date was an IOR 6-24x50. I originally purchased a 30mm tube model and after multiple failures I upgraded to the 35mm tube, it seems that the glass on this is better! So far the internals are holding up but due to past experiences and threads in forums I suppose it still might fail on any give day. For my airguns I use cheap Hawkes and about to try a Vortex Diamondback, if they fail on an airgun I pop the scope off and switch to irons to finish off the day. Not an acceptable task with my powderburners as if I need them I don't want them to fail.

Ditto for Beltman belts, easy to order and the turnaround isn't as long as he advertises. (Guess that depends more on workload.) The belt measuring was easy and I ordered it without the stiffener, for daily or dress use it is perfect. By adding a stiffener I don't think it would have fit through some of my pants belt loops. The belt goes well with my horsehide Milt Spark VMII holsters, and carries a 5" 1911 and a Glock 34 without issues. I did buy some leather conditioner from Jim when I placed the order, which I use for other leather such as motorcycle gloves and gear. About the only issue that I have had with the belt was the chicago screws loosening which was solved with blue Loc-Tite and are still tight today... I do believe my next belt will be a Comptac though as I "sometimes" forget that I am wearing a fancy belt when getting under a car to do mechanic work or just to look at something under a vehicle. (Comptac is cheaper to replace)

I like and have a 24" while brother has a 21", the 24" with a +4" Briley barrel extension can also be used for clays and hunting, so can be dual or triple purpose. The only time the 24" seems a bit long is when held next to the 21" model.

What makes a Benelli shotgun a 3-gun shotgun? All of the modifications below are not required but are nice and others are not needed. With the below mods you are around $500 over the cost of the gun. $25 Extended bolt handle? $45 Extended lifter gate? $80 Extended mag tube? $14 Extended bolt release? $25 Hiviz front sight $12 Ruger OEM 10/22 rear sight $300 Milled/lightened bolt and mill the load port? free-Modified bolt for ghost loading?

To install the LPA, does the pistol require any machine work?

What he said, this policy came about with the CAC smartcards, no photocopying... I had to educate a business or two and signed a letter for one and another I submitted an email from my work address.

If that is your goto accurate load: Use some adhesive and put a small patch of rubber on the case deflector... Cheap and if it works it works... Or tune the gas system or recoil system.

Sweet, but I order my stuff through Brian Enos...

I often carry either a Kahr MK9 or a S&W340PD, the main factor depends on clothing worn and/or activities involved that day. I have a pocket holster for the 340PD and a waistband clip on the MK9. I am more accurate with the MK9 but it does have better sights and weighs more, the 340PD is loaded with WWB .38FMJ "target" fodder. (I also carry a Glock 34/35 or a .45 1911 in a IWB holster too but not much anymore as the waistbands on my pants are getting tighter, sometimes I even use a 4" 617 in a OWB 3-slot holster..)

Just picked up the North Mountain 4-post longs and a single long post for a 625 and 627, I had a Speed-E rack which was traded for these as the Speed-E rack was made for the 627 and posts were too fat for the .45ACP rounds. So the NM rack can be dual purpose. Bought a 617 rack too and Robert shipped pretty quick to boot, I wonder if Robert would be interested in making a few knife sheaths...

The JP has a better finish/machining and is stainless, might include the small parts. The Armalite clamp-on A2 sight base is cheap but it works well, just don't forget to order the detent, detent spring, and the front sight.

I am looking for a holster to use for CCW, hunting, and some gun games but not sanctioned by any legality rules... I would prefer Kydex, so any input as to which holster make/model retains both of the listed pistols without rattling?

If shooting in one position can build a frame next to you and hang a tarp on it, brass ejects and the tarp keeps it from flying and funnels it downward into a bucket... A more expensive route would be MoonClipped Revolvers.

My older coax had the offcentered hole for the handle... I replaced it with a Dillon 550BL due to my brother keeping the coax for his rifle loading, (.308, .338, 6.5, .223). I have the 550 setup for .308, .338, .45-70 using the powder drop funnel and a hand primer system.

YES, downsize the powder charge when using the Starline +p brass especially when looking at regular .45ACP loads. A similar difference when using commercial loads with LC/Military rifle brass. Military Brass is much thicker around the web area and holds less powder, a friend recently had a case/head separation on a .223 because he used load data for a commercial case.

I am looking at buying a large amount of SP .45ACP brass... Found two vendors that advertise but they also have poor customer service histories... I think I sent Starline an Email requesting .45 +p or .45 Super brass with small primer pockets. I like the idea and once converted it is not evil anymore... (easier to sort your brass from others if using small primers)

Could try the stainless steel media...