Sc0

I think Sinclair advertises a special tool to remove the crimp from military brass, it cuts it away instead of swaging it back into place but is more fullproof than a deburring tool. (primer pocket cleaner?) Is this military fired brass from military firearms, if so might want to check for stretched brass prior to a casehead seperation. For 10k pieces of brass it would provide the perfect opportunity for a 1050 upgrade. I have the Dillon hand swage tool and maybe done a few thousand cases of 9mm, 7.62x51, and a few .223 cases but that was during the past year is MANY different sessions. Good for watching the tele but knowing that you have 9k more to go is a PITA. As for removing primers, I have a Lee universal "unbreakable" decapper, works well for 7.62 and 9mm. I tried using a Forster resizing die with decapper only to make it through 2 cases before the pins broke. Tumble clean deprime/swage chamfer

Try: http://www.gungear.com/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/...ay.cgi?8X300536

Yep, Brian makes it too easy and the Forums explain everything in detail so spending the extra $$$ works out in the longer run.

So your talking about a manually indexing 650? I would think that most buy the 650 for the progressive function, the 550 reigns in the variety of caliber conversions and less moving stuff when being used. Another disadvantage would be the primer system on the 650, some love it while others hate it. I think that someone could come out with a 650 manually indexing kit for people who prefer it, but if that was the case a 550 would have been purchased instead and money would have been saved. (that and the 550 takes up less benchroom than a 650) The caliber conversions for the 550 are also less $$$ than the 650.

Heard good reviews about the Volquartsen "exact edge" extractors. http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchant.mv?S...gory_Code=R2EXT

FYI: A problem that I have had with my small framed Glocks was brass slithers building up under the extractor which works it's way to the firing pin and firing pin safety button. Once cleaned no more issues until lots more fired rounds, in which case that area gets looked at/cleaned again. (G27, G34, G35)

What he said... If you only plan on reloading a few hundred rounds per year it would be cheaper just to reconfig the press... Probly quicker to reconfig and load then to just load using a single stage. The RCBS Rockchucker Supreme can be converted over to the Lock-N-Load bushings so this can save you some time if you prefer green over red. The CoAx is a bit smaller and probly lighter than comparable presses but also costs a bit more and is not stubby finger friendly when loading a FAT case. The advantage of the CoAx is that it has a universal automatic adjusting shellplate and the die lock rings are CHEAP and KISS... I use my CoAx for prototype or precision type loads then a 650 for production. YES, a Single stage is GOOD to have so GO GET ONE!

Used mine for perhaps 1100 times... VERY time consuming, much better off spending a few dollars more for the 1050. I still use mine but I have to be in the mood to do a few hundred cases in a sitting. It is more portable and lighter than a 1050 which would make it ideal for those long car rides but for multipurpose use the 1050 excels.

I think I read something before that if you do the frame swap to remove ALL parts that you want to keep before sending it in as it will come back OEM equipped. (so strip it down before going out)

Milt Sparks VMII Horsehide. I was using a shirt tucker Com-Tac and that was uncomfortable but it only had one clip... The C-tacs and Ghurka's are improved versions of that one.

This is what I have been looking at as a multi-weapon chassis; 5.3" Glock, 5" 1911. Being that some drop rigs have been approved, a 92F/M9 will also find it's way inside for work. http://triadtactical.com/userimages/HSGI%2...rand=1114992931

Finally popped the sideplate today... Only to find what looked like a small bead stuck on the hammer which dug itself a nice track on the sideplate. I told myself when I picked up the gun that I would leave the internals alone, then when I decide to clean it out looky at what was hidden. BTW: this freaking thing has more moving parts than my 1911 and possibly my Glock! Greased everything, filed the hammer/hammer lock Flat and that's about it. Just bummed out about the little "slag" poking off the hammer. I wouldn't call it modifying the internals, just cleaning up the factory machining or lack of. Custom Gun Smiths deserve a pat on the back for dealing with this. http://www.hunt101.com/watermark.php?file=...6scrape-med.JPG http://www.hunt101.com/watermark.php?file=...6hammer-med.JPG

darn, I bought mine in July.... Knew I should have waited.

I went with the Chargemaster, I needed a new scale anyways... I have looked at the Harrels but would have preferred a stainless drum to a brass one. The ability to custom load at the range would have been awesome with the Harrels as I have seen BR people do on the bench, inside trailers, and on the back of tailgates at matches. I am going to give electronics a chance, hopefully it will be worth it. I have also rediscovered the thread about how to tweak the Dillon measure for more accurate extruded powder uses and will be modifying mine accordingly to see what happens.

How far away was the chrono from the muzzle?

http://www.quick-measure.com/qm.htm A review: http://home.comcast.net/~davidawilson/Long...kMeasure/QM.htm It's kind of pricey but if it works with that amount of precision it might be worthwhile. Does anyone else run one with their reloading setups? I have been thinking about one for a 650 as an alternative to a RCBS Chargemaster combo when pushing .223 or .308... +/-.1 gr might be more accurate than my RCS 505 scale!

Could also be a combination of brass buildup in the firing pin channel not being cleaned out periodically?

Since I am rather new to the Dillon I never tried the earlier multipurpose wrench. I do have the newer lockrings and the slim wrench which works better than anything else I have laying around. About the only other solution which would be "better" would be sort of a crowsfoot 12pt socket opened up a wee bit to fit the dies with a bar welded to it. (grab 5 corners instead of 2)

With a socket how would you hold the die while you tightened the nut? The Dillon 1" plain wrench does it for me, the dies don't necessarily have to be torqued down just tight enough not to loosen, fully within the capabilities of their $6 wrench.

Well a primer flip tray/press is available to load the APS strips, and of course you have the strips. Extra cost to use unless you use the primers that are prepackaged. (8pk of strips $4, strip loader $25) Then RCBS has a price difference between the APS model and the tray version, different design/parts internally? (Maybe Sinclair will add a tray version to their '06 catalog?) If you are priming before dumping into the hopper I would seriously look at a bench mounted version. (RCBS or Forster) I would rather much rather push than squeeze. Also how do you check to ensure that no tumbling media is blocking the flashhole, decapping/resizing station 1? I reloaded 200rds of .45 on my 650, no high primers using Winchester, CCI, Federal, and some military brass along with Wincheester primers. I had a friend load another 200rds using the same brass except with CCI primers and he had all sorts of high primers, missing primers, and even one CRUSHED primer which didn't go off... If a overtravel stop was added to prevent you from crushing the primers into the pocket would you be more comfortable applying more force?

Which RCBS hand primer is recommended over the other, the tray type or the APS strip version? I am using a LEE right now but when it craps out i'll upgrade.

Don't forget the enviable search for the SPP .45 Super brass.... After firing up my 650 for .45ACP I looked at every piece of brass to ensure the use of LPP. Fear not about detonating primers, my decapping pin was pushed up somehow and not depriming I caught it by the 4th round due to primers coming out of the ski chute. It's possible to ignite one but not if you are paying attention like an operator should. Besides LPP are helpful, a few less parts to swap out when converting over to Rifle Calibers that use LRP. (though logistically I would prefer all pistols to use SPP)

Grab a 17 and a 19 for it's companion in the safe. Nobody should be without a 9mm, or two. I haven't mixed the mags up between the 9mm and .40 but I would HATE to goto a match to find out I packed the wrong mags per caliber weapon being used. I have a 34 and 35, if Glock comes out with a practical/tactical .45 i'll probly grab one of those as well... If you have OC- you would have to get the 22, 27, and a 24 to complete the collection. Then you will have to consider the green framed versions...

Delvac 1 for my weapons, it's like Mobil 1 except with a few more things and is diesel rated... I use some "Corrosion Block" grease for the buffer tube.

Over at snipershide I jumped on a Group Buy from Sierra with a few others, they will drop ship with a $1200 order. 500 69gr SMK's were $54.85 per 500 on the deal.