Sc0

Interesting, i am intending to use the same mag setup in the same caliber...

What does this .020" removal accomplish?

I was looking for the Nitride version with the blue grips a few weeks ago, no dice. Gave up and picked up a Tanfoglio Stock3...

Similar here, except looking at parts for a Limited gun.

Are these springs interchangeable with anything else? Purchased two for national match service AR's and both are short stroking, reinstalled the OEM buffer setup and function was restored. Now I have purchased the spring calibration pack and was disappointed that it only came with a single spring which is lighter, white, the black spring came with the SCS. Haven't tested it for function yet but does anyone have a source of lighter springs or a source that sells a single spring?

On a XL650 I snapped a shellplate in half, ruined a case feed body bushing, and broke a station 1 locator ramp... Not sure what happened but Dillon sent me an alignment tool with replacement parts a few days later and no more trouble since then... (I return shipped the shellplate, guess they wanted to see it?) I have since picked up a 550BL that sits next to it's bigger brother.

I had the same problems with my Arredondo extensions on a G35 and G34, never trusted them due to the same symptoms. I appreciate the tips as well!

I have a AR10T fiberglass free-float tube; it's overly large, heavy, and slippery. I replaced it with the JP VTAC, rifle feels MUCH better due to the slimmer diameter and it has a ROUGH texture to it. Has the capability of rails and extra sling swivels. An option that you didn't list is the Nordic Component rail, it's like the JP and has capabilities to add rails and swivels, though a little less grippy but not a problem with the invention of the spray-on bedliner... (handguard is less than $100)

My upper is a Dec 2010 production, Geiselle SD S3G trigger was purchased early 2011, Spike lower... Fired it a few days ago, 5ea BlackDog X-mags 26rd each, mags were fired pretty rapidly without any FTF's... (Winchester Dynapoints)

S&W is having issues, where if you purchase a new one it will be a lottery as to whether or not it will have to be sent in for repair. My most recent purchase was a 625PC, when I opened the box the rear sight was adjusted all the way to the left. I was thinking that the barrel was installed a bit crooked as a bunch of threads talk about the same issue on newer production Smiths. Luckily when I first fired it I had to adjust the sight to the middle in order to hit paper, I was happy that I didn't have to send the gun back to S&W. I like the Ruger revolvers and would not hesitate to buy one if they made what I want. (5" .45acp or 5" 10mm) The obtaining of parts through Ruger is about the only deficiency about the brand, some parts can be ordered while others are factory installed. Perhaps if this rule was more loose...

I like and own CZ's and brother has Sako Quads. The Quad has a nicer trigger out of the box, is easier to change a barrel on and I believe his currently has a Lilja on it, and the Quad feels larger/more substantial than the CZ 452. He has this in a Manners stock and the rifle feels good... The CZ 452 trigger can be improved, rebarreling can be a PITA, and ejection can sometimes be finicky. The best part of the 452 is that it never fails to extract and now that Stock makers are doing this pattern it makes it a wee bit better. I have a 1957 made BRNO Model 4 which is VERY much similar to the 452, the 455 is redesigned new player.

A universal shellplate that accepts four regular shell holders... For those odd situations like converting a 550 into a single stage.

pellets LLC

For the past 3 years I have shot my 24" M2 at an annual "Homes for Troops" clays event. It has the +6 tube, mag clamp, extended handle, and a Briley +4" barrel extension with a Briley extended Skeet choke. Last year I kept joking with the Beretta factory exhibition shooter that he should use my Benelli after his Beretta kept jamming. I get some funny looks, and at this last event a guy mentioned that it was like waving a weedeater. The last event a friend was using a 21" M2 configured similar, he shot better than I did. This year the same friend used a Browning Gold and he shot even better, the reasoning was that it recoiled less.

I have the Gunslinger 2, 18" AR, and 24" M2... The only problem is that I am also wondering about the A2SS/A2LS and how the 24" shotty will fit in it.

I do for seperate rifles... (no trimmer though)

This thread got me looking at one, the last time I was cranking out some rounds I came close to taking some skin off my fingers or getting one shortened... I am about to grab the Hornady Bullet feeding die for my pistol rounds, with a few modifications it feeds cast bullets just fine. (I wonder if Hornady sells replacement inserts so I can have a set for cast bullets and a set for jacketed.) Their was some talk about introducing a rifle version soon. The die with a tube sticking out of the top is all that I need to keep my fingers safe. Someone did a mod where the bullet tubes had cotter pins, put a loaded tube on top of the die and pull the pin so the bullets start feeding. (Similar to the Dillon primer tubes, except larger.) The only disadvantage would be that the bullet feed die takes up a station the I normally use to verify that the case has powder in it.

What he said, it's pretty easy to perform. I did my own and even if the hole was drilled/tapped crooked it still looks good! (used red loc-tite) I would also think that any machine shop can get it done in 20 minutes or less. You can still call CRums and get a new lifter delivered before your match? Getting a thumb caught in a Match cannot have good results, at least wear gloves... Another modification is to bevel the notch under the bolt or fill in for ghost loading an extra round.

I grabbed a XL650 with casefeeder a few months after starting to reload on a Forster CoAx. With a casefeeder it is a sweet machine, though pricey especially if you plan on reloading multiple calibers. I got a friend started in reloading with a RL550B and after setting it up and using it, it is pretty simple with less fuss than the 650. Now after you start to understand the 650 and get some experience with it, if you run into issues while using it they can be cleared up quickly. Recently I loaded some .308 ammo and was getting 1/4-1/2moa at a very windy 100yds using extruded powder, it's not the most accurate rifle handloading that I have done but for the time spent it is completely acceptable. When you want to crank out the rounds the 650 can definitely push them out. Recently I also purchased a BL550 to replace my beloved single stage Co-Ax. The 550 is capable of reloading more calibers than the 650 and the conversion kits are cheaper, (contain less parts). I like to prime/decap some of my cases by hand too, which is why I didn't need the primer assembly that the RL550 comes with. (LNL AP: A friend ignited a primer tube accidentally and after recovering he shipped it back for a refund and upgraded to a 550, showed me the smoke and primer fragments on the ceiling. My cousin has the LNL AP with case feeder and has no complaints at all.)

I have the 24" M2 and a Nordic +6 tube, add the new 3/4" mag end cap and it will be flush with the barrel. Without the extended end cap it's about 3/4" shy of the muzzle. I also have the Nordic clamp with a sling stud fitted, 10-32 stud fits fine.

Remove the plastic cam that advances the primer feed, top right plastic piece on the front frame held by a single bolt. I remove mine after I prime my primer tube when setting up/adjusting the press.

Could modify/extend the primer punch on the 650/550 to act as a longer primer pocket "Swager", one for small and another for large primer pockets? This combined with a universal die for the top that has a threaded rod on it to keep the force off the shellplate, a semi-swager 600 design except press friendly and possibly cheaper? Two seperate toolheads, one for case prep and the other for loading; deprime/resize, deswage, case trim, then I don't know about the other stations. The design is simple, and for most calibers a Lee universal deprime die can be used that has an "extended" drop down rod that presses against the bottom of the case when it deswages. (The Lee die has a collet for the rod, so it will slip upwards before something binds or breaks). I have the Swager 600 but if the press can be utilized for this operation I am all for it.

That swager looks expensive! I modified a CH4D Prime/Swager tool that mimics the .50BMG case head, no messing with shell-holders is required...

Used one for a .22lr build, no issues.

The disadvantage of the Lockout die is that it is only recommended for straight wall cases.