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Does the LWD Glock 34 slides have the internal lightening cuts?

Umm, I pulled about 50 mixed rounds with my RCBS with the collet being upside down... Nothing broke yet but the end of the chuck has a nice taper to it now. For most rifle rounds I use a Hornady CamLock but if I need something quick I grab the kenetic puller.

Could always mill the frame to accept a GLOCK OEM locking block...

I have a 34 and a 35, the 35 was my first CCW. As ammo prices crept up I then purchased a 34 for IDPA and CCW; talk about a weight difference between a loaded .40 and a loaded 9mm... The #1 thing that I did to the 34 was to remove the extended mag release, lost my mag too many times when carrying CCW and it also had a tendency to dig in. I have a LEO friend who put the extended slide stop on his G22 and discovered he was accidentally activating it due to his two hand hold, not a good thing to do for a duty gun. Another gripe that is easily fixed is the sights, it happened once but the OEM sight was pushed over in it's dovetail. It doesn't take too much pressure to move so I then upgraded to a set of Novak lo mount black fixed sights, which have a VERY nice sight picture compared to OEM sights. (simpler is better for CCW) I really like the Glock 19 and consider them to be perfect for carry but i'll stick with bigger is better. The 34 has two internal cutouts in the slide which could possibly crack sometime throughout it's life, FYI. I have never shot IDPA competitively or even shot a classifier, but the open/practice events were fun and even heard of someone using a .22... can't get much cheaper than that!

It is my intention to do the same, shoot rifled slugs out of a smothbore barrel. I would HIGHLY recommend changing the choke tube out to cylinder or improved cylinder as any other might cause complications.

I have a CoAx, Dillon 650, and a Lee Classic Cast .50bmg and purchased in that order. The 650 is for cranking out the rounds in 9mm, .40, .45acp, .223, and .308 while the CoAx is used for prototype or loads for a .45/70 and .338 Lapua Mag. The Lee Classic Cast is used primarily for .50bmg since I already have Forster lock rings installed on my other dies. I also have a hand press for depriming/bullet pulling duties using a Hornady cam-lock. If I went with the Lee Classic and converted it to use the Hornady lock-n-load bushings I probly wouldn't have purchased the CoAx. If I would have bought the Dillon 550 first I wouldn't have bought the CoAx as it does .338 Lapua Mag, there was a rumor about Dillon working on a .50BMG conversion of the 550, that would have negated the purchase of the Lee Classic. Also if you are looking at using military brass, go ahead and throw in a Dillon Super Swage 600 or if you have the money the 1050 but the Super Swage is considerably cheaper... With all that said I highly recommend the Dillon 550 but, you still might need a single stage to do bullet pulling duties so perhaps a Lee Classic Cast as well.

24.3gr Varget, Tikka T3 mag length, Winchester SRP, Winchester virgin brass, 2740fps. .5-1.5moa For comparison: same brass/powder/OAL, primer, except with a 69gr SMK, .5-1moa same brass/powder/OAL, primer, except with a 77gr SMK, 1-3moa (compressed load, 2650fps avg +/- 150fps) same brass/powder/max OAL, primer, 77gr SMK, .25moa, 2750fps. Will try more loads with RL-15 powder... I will say the bullets are Pretty!

Purchased 5k of the 62gr FMJBT without cannelure, +/- up to .5gr will remeasure more but they shot pretty good at 100yds in a bolt gun.

Can you sneak a pic? I would like to pick up some type of shell carriers and am liking Nordic Components... Saving room on the belt is always advantageous for those of smaller diameter waists..

OK, I received my M2 goodies and on back of the instructions it mentions this shellholder becoming available soon... Someone spill the beans and post up pics. (wheres our Nordic insider...)

Purchased it, $1063 or so... M2 Field 24" synthetic/matte. 130rds through it so far and is flawless, was tired of loading one in the chamber and two in the tube so yanked the plug and loaded three plus one to speed things up. Hopefully will have my Nordic components this week to speed up the rest of the break-in process, and have to modify it some more to prevent the Benelli thumb/finger shuffle. Luckily nobody saw me when I was trying to get my finger unstuck! (Enroute is a +6 tube, clamp, bolt handle, and bolt release) I am impressed, first semi scattergun and third shotgun to date. It recoils a bit more than my Browning BPS 3.5" using the same loads but the Browning was considerably heavier and I am sure the M2 recoils less than the M1. I think that Winchester would do good by offering a recoil operated version of the 1300 and having a price tag a bit less than the 1100/11-87 but I am absolutely happy with the Benelli.

I have a Vibra Prime with a few live primers rattling around inside, if this is shipped to you for repair would I have to pay the $20 Haz-Mat fee? (sure does make a weird noise as the primers are tossed around inside...)

Before you purchase a scope call that manufacturers customer service to see if it's easy to contact them and what the procedures would be to send one in if it breaksand the typical turn around time. From what I can tell IOR has a "single" line for customer service, and so far I am a month into the warrantee with my "blue" band IOR and am waiting for it to be returned. I have Nightforce scopes and the glass is exceptionally clear and the way prices are now they are in the same price league as IOR's. (when I purchased my IOR 6-24x50 30mm tube, it was the same price as a Leupold.) I have a nightforce mounted on a AR-10T with LOTS of rounds through it, and now have one on a AR-50. Another scope which seems durable for anything below a .50 and has excellent glass/tracking is a Zeiss Conquest. For the price they are HARD to beat...

I agree; the AR platform is hard to beat due to parts availability, cost, and accuracy. I looked at the SIG and it looked good except for the price and nobody at the gun show were selling parts for it. The Robinson as pictured above looks interesting and makes me think of a Baby-FAL or Daewoo K2 in a certain way. The newly developed FN SCAR looks interesting as well but who knows how it would hold up due to a limited "customer base". Mini-14 would be kinda neat but expensive mags and a unguided chunk of steel called a guide rod doesn't do much for accuracy. The MAK-90 is good but not as accurate as the AR, but even so the AR is more pleasant to shoot and doesn't turn into a portable heater.

I think this thread talked me into a M2... (recently sold a Browning BPS-12x3.5", feeling inadequate without a shotgun) Mods, for the sake of other pocketbooks' you can delete this thread.

I have about five of these and a single loading block for a 617 10 shot. I actually didn't buy the gun until I seen a review of these. The Speedloaders continue to work long after the gun doesn't due to fouling.

Browning product #: 012244371 20" barrel 12g 3" Cylinder bore with fixed choke 7rd magazine tube Synthetic Stock. 7lbs, 8oz Trying to offload my 3.5" 12g Stalker to buy one... The only bad thing that I see is that the barrel is proprietary to this model.

That's a classic example of crap, kinda deserves it's own web page? I am sure it will save other people some grief in the end. From the pictures it looks like a money-pit for another smith to try and save it. I have here a Ruger #1 that I want to rebarrel but can't remember which smith did a bad job on a similar rifle from another forum... I will be sure not to send it to the same place. I much prefer to learn from other peoples mistakes than those of my own...

Might be a silly question as I don't know your background, did you remove your breakdown tab and MAYBE put it back in backwards? Have a Jarvis in my G35, runs like a champ though the above scenario took some figuring out...

That's my experience with my Glocks as well. I think that somehow the brass is being shaved by the extractor, maybe while chambering a round from the mag... It's now a cleaning point as when I did have Glock malfunctions it was due to he brass buildup inside the striker/extractor/firing pin block channels. This was with the factory recoil springs and aftermarket ISMI.

Are you running the PM without the retrograde and just the springs?

Have you cleaned out the firing pin channel/extractor housing and firing pin block hole lately? When my Glocks start to act up I can find tiny brass shavings in those areas clogging things up... So I just remember to clean those areas somewhere around every 250rds and no more problems.

If they have more than one put me on the list!

To revive an old thread; which type of speedloader holders are you using? I have found a 686 holster but dunno about the speedloader holders as some have the centering rod, and that just won't work with these. I like the ones that have the open sides and snap top, open top would work good too if it was similar to spring steel and clamped the loader securely...

Are the shells hanging up right before it gets "pushed" into the shellplate? If so I would say that your shellplate might be a hair too tight. On my press I clipped a coil or so off of the shellplate ball detent spring and with proper tension on the holddown screw case feeding issues are gone. (as a bonus so is spilled powder) I actually broke a shellplate because of this issue... As for the primer punch swap I pull the handle for more room then use an open end 9/16" wrench. I think that the punch from the factory is hard to remove initially, I install them a little tight but afterwards it's easy to swap... A more speciaized or modified tool would probly be easier to use but I haven't had a need for one. (swapped mine from .45acp to .223 the other day) As for priming on the up stroke, so far I haven't had a problem seating them flush when everything is setup properly... Have the Dillon video?