Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

silvercorvette

Classified
  • Posts

    74
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Real Name
    Lawrence Parylla

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

silvercorvette's Achievements

Looks for Range

Looks for Range (1/11)

  1. I haven't set up the Hornady press I got along with case and bullet feeder because of back problems and have been waiting to get the U/S cleaner till I started feeling better but a couple weeks ago it got even worst. So while I was just hanging out waiting to feel better I mentioned getting a cleaner in other forums and someone in the 1911 forum found this one on ebay that I believe is the best cleaner you can buy at a reasonable price I refuse to do business with ebay because of their anti gun policy so the 1911 forum member found this link that you can buy from and avoid ebay. I an trying to decide on whether to get the $400 or $340 model Thanks to 1911 forum member Quikenuff that found this http://www.shining-image.com/servlet/the-17/ultrasonic-cleaner-ultrasound-cleaner/Detail http://www.shining-image.com/servlet/the-24/ultrasonic-cleaner-ultrasound-cleaner/Detail
  2. If you want to save time and reading you can skip everything I wrote and read the last sentence. The topic was discussed in another thread, the topic also came up on the 1911 forum. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=119618&st=0&p=1354909&hl=45%20acp%20small%20primer&fromsearch=1entry1354909 But my question involves trying to find out what factory ammo has small primers if I need to buy ammo in the future. Here is what happened, I bought a bullet feeder and added three boxes of ammo to bring the total dollar amount up high enough to get cheaper shipping and intended on reloading the brass after i fired the ammo. I never gave primer size a second thought until I read about .45 ACP ammo with small primers on the 1911 forum. I decided to check my ammo to make sure my ammo had the proper size primers and discovered my ammo had small primers. The box is blue and white marked "Independence". The brass is marked Blazer .45 auto, and the back of the box says made in USA. I hope this isn't going to become a new trend that going to cause problems. I normal inspect all my brass for cracks or splits but this is just going to add one more thing to check. I haves thousands of tumbled large prime brass and I doubt that I am going to reload these things unless I wind up finding a bunch of range pick ups. But it looks like I used up a lot of words and still haven't asked the question that was the reason I started this thread. I hope this small primer thing does not become popular because it is going to add another step to sorting range pick ups and make sifting through range pick up a pain in the tail What other brands of .45 ACP ammo is manufactured with small primers so I will know what to avoid in the future? Hopefully I will have my press set up in the future so there won't be a reason to buy factory ammo. But if it becomes more common it is going to be a PITA checking primer size.
  3. I have a lot of stuff that needs to be done that got piled up when I was having back problems and spent most of my time in bed. I am starting to get all caught up on the other stuff that has to be done before I can do any reloading, I still don't have the press set up yet so I have no idea how I will like the factory handle. I was considering the handle because the angled rod plus the handle instead of a ball seems like it may be more helpful than just a larger ball. But the fact I haven't used the press yet means I need to listen to other peoples opinions that have working knowledge of this press so I am wondering if anyone has used a friends machine or two friend's machines that had different handles.
  4. As long as I am spending all that much money I want to be able to use it on other things such as gun parts therefore I want the big one ================================================================= I just got off the phone with Hornady I called Hornady to ask them why their cleaner cost more that Harbor freight, and I asked them for some thing to compare them by. The only number he was able to give me was that Hornady was 120 watts. He also mentioned it was made of stainless steel and it had 2 transducers I also asked about the warrantee and was told it is a 2 year warrantee. I went to the Harbor freight site. The site lists the power of their cleaner as 160 watts, but this part is important to me because it is an indication of quality, it does not specify the number of transducers. The Hornady warrantee is 2 years and the Harbor freight is 30 days. I am also going to do some more research to learn if there are other factors to consider such as how many pulses or cycles per second the cleaner operates at
  5. I got the Philips Norelco 1250xcc/42 SensoTouch 3d Electric Shaver with Jet Clean System, it was delivered Saturday. I wasn't aware that Philips Norelco allows you to return it within 45 days if you aren't happy with it. I did not like it the first day but after 4 days my head and face have gotten use to it. I think this is a keeper.
  6. SC has some good laws, they are very close to signing a bill to allow carry without a permit. I like the heat and was considering AZ but I still have friends in NY that I like to visit and NY is drivable in one day if you push it hard and two to three days if you drive slow and take your time. Full auto is legal
  7. What makes this $220 Hornady cleaner HORNADY cost twice as much as this $115 Grafs one Just looking at the pictures and reading the specs the Hornady holds more fluid and the Graf and Harbor freight is plastic while the Hornady looks like it is aluminum GRAFS and this $70 one at Harbor freight looks like it is the same one as the one selling for $115 at Grafs HARBOR FREIGHT I am thinking of getting the $70 one unless I am missing some kind of special feature that makes the Hornady cost over 3 times as much, I wonder what makes it worth all that extra money
  8. I have a Conair clipper similar to the one in the link http://www.conair-store.com/product_detail.asp?T1=CON+HC200GB&HDR=GROOMING#back I basically use it once a year to cut the hair down to short stubble, then I use an old fashioned double edge blade. After approximately 10 years of doing a terrible job cutting myself and missing spots I am hopping these newfangled shavers make it easier. I have no idea what to expect but to keep on doing the same thing that has given me poor results it has finally sunk in I need to try something different. I can always return the one I bought unopened if I made a poor choice I can always get something else, I think the three head design will fit the contours of my head better. I anyone has suggestions I would love to hear them while I can still have the chance to switch to a different brand, I just want to get rid of my hair ASAP.
  9. Damn, I read this too fast and I thought you were getting a 1250cc shaver. I wanted to see that thing run! It was a toss up between the 1250 and the R3130. The 1250 is not quite 10 time more expensive than the Remington. After reading some of the reviews about the the Remington not being very good and the blades breaking easily I went and ordered the $200 shaver from Amazon. I never owned an electric shaver before and I have no idea why there is such a big difference in price but I am hoping the electric shaver will make it easier to shave my head. Also I stopped shaving my face mid winter so I my use it for my face or I may just shave the head and not the face. This is a picture of me taken with Col. Robert K. Morgan, Pilot of the Memphis Belle who passed away on 15 May 04. I believe the photo was taken the summer of 03
  10. It sounds to me like you are buying into the Brady bunch nonsense about guns being evil. Put the blame on the person pulling the trigger not the gun. I have Nazi guns that may have been used to kill someone and I own a USGI 1911. I own a part of history
  11. I have been shaving for almost a 1/2 century but always used a blade. I have tried the plastic throw away blades but they get clogged up. I am thinking of buying an electric shaver soon and I have to make a decision because it is time to shave again. I have a full head of hair that I shave off in the spring and let grow back when the weather gets cold. It's getting warm enough to shave my head I have been shaving my head for about 5 to 10 years but I have a hard time doing a good job with a blade. I start out cutting my hair short with a clipper then remove the rest with an old fashioned double edge blade. This year I am switching to electric and there seems to be a wide range of prices anywhere from $30 to $300. Remington makes a R3 360 pivot and flex model R3130 for under $30, and I saw a Philips Norelco 1250xcc/42 SensoTouch 3d Electric Shaver with Jet Clean System on Amazon.com for $200, but they have some in the $300 price range and some for about $100. Philips $200 http://www.shavertoday.com/Rotary-238090011-B003V37Z9W-Philips_Norelco_1250cc42_SensoTouch_3d_Electric_Shaver_with_Jet_Clean_System_Black Remington under $30 http://www.walmart.com/ip/Remington-R3103-Rotary-Shaver/12534220 PS I noticed the sell replacement heads that cost $30 to $50, how often do you need to replace the heads Does anyone shave their head with an electric shaver, if so what do you use and recommend.
  12. I looked them up and here are the results. http://www.urbandictionary.com I don't think anyone knows where the 9 yard thing came from. Belts came in many different lengths and there are many plausible theories behind where it came fro but no one will ever know for sure. There have also been a lot of conflicting stories behind balls to the wall. Used since the 18th century to describe a ship. 'Ship' is a pretty homogenous term these days, but back then, to describe a vessel as a 'true' ship, it had to have 3 masts (fore, main, and mizzen) and on each of these were 3 sails (main, top, and topgallant) suspended from horizontal 'yards'. To handle so many sails, a fairly large crew is required. Warships carried much, much larger crews than merchantmen, and so it was only warships and the large, prestigeous merchant ships such as East Indiamen that could be described as having 'the whole (or full) nine yards'. Does not come from military or football. It relates to the clothing industry. It is a term that tailors have used since the 1900's for denoting the extent that one wishes to invest in a custom-made suit. It takes exactly nine square yards of material to create a man's three-piece suit. If an individual desires a suit that is tailored to the "hilt" (double lined, etc.), he would request that the tailor should proceed with "the whole nine yards." Anything shy of nine yards would mean various alterations. This would lessen the overall quality of the suit. This is not about the airforce, football or even the clothing industry; The Whole Nine Yards refers to the amount of conrete that was in the original concrete trucks (9 cubic yards). ================================= Balls to the wall This term significantly predates airplanes all together. The term "balls to the wall" originated with James Watt's invention of the centrifugal governor used on early steam engines (circa 1774, well before the Wright brothers at Kitty Hawk). Over the years, these types of governors were adapted for use on various other types of engines, including many aircraft engines. Some aircraft have a ball shape at the end of the throttle control, which is actually a clever reference to the governor mechanism, no doubt conceived by a witty designer. It is easy to see where one could get the (wrong) impression that "balls to the wall" would indicate the position of the throttle lever, when in fact, the term, strictly speaking, is a reference to the position of the weights on the governor.
  13. As the buyer you are taking a chance that you may be getting questionable from an inexperienced reloader making questionable quality ammo and worst case if the person messes up with a double charge, you can have a gun blow up injuring a hand or loosing it, it may cost you an eye or even your life. From a sellers standpoint I would not want to risk the liability if someone was hurt or injured from one of my rounds. If I was going to do something like that I would get the person to sign something to protect me from getting sued. And even then I still would be worried.
  14. I found a link to a tool stand that may be the same as mine or similar, it is only $25 which is less than 1/2 the price of the Frankford and probably 10 time stronger. Link to Sears EDIT You do have to buy a piece of plywood but even with the cost of wood it is still less than 1/2 the price of the Frankford Also in my other post I said I paid more than the Frankford. This was a long time ago, maybe the prices went down, maybe I bought a different model, or maybe it just a bad memory on my part
  15. The Sears tool table is adjustable so you can set it to the height that is most comfortable
×
×
  • Create New...