kneelingatlas

I don't know about it feeling similar to Titegroup, it it is on the slow side for non-compensated pistols. What are you loading for? A production gun?

0.378"

I've bought lots of new barrels from CZ USA and it's more or less random if they're black or silver.

The original intent of the rule is immaterial, it's been a part of the game a very long time and I've yet to hear a compelling reason to change it.

Do you really think it's costs less to make this: Than this: They're the same width at the bottom so they're cut from the same size stock, the only difference is an extra machining step to narrow down the top one so it will fit inside the narrower slot in an SP01 slide as opposed to the Shadow slide. As far as the weight of the hammer goes, I've never noticed more reliable ignition with one over the other, although in theory the lighter hammer should set off primers better. The big difference, as mentioned above, is lock time. The two hammers above vary in weight to a very small degree, but the Jericho 941 hammer is significantly heavier and falls noticeably slower. Revolver guys would be the best to ask about this.

Rather than add another sorting brass, I just load everything, chamber check and place in plastic ammo boxes, then num my finger over the head stamps, pulling out the stepped cases to be use in practice to check zero or chrono. I've only had one gun which actually has had any separate (maybe a looser chamber than the rest).

I agree 3N38 is the best powder available for 9 major; HS6 is second in my opinion and costs just over half as much, and burns a little dirtier.

There are two kinds of ambi safeties on CZs: "D Style" and "Tumbler Style", the SP01 comes with the D style, the 75B SA comes with the tumbler style. The tumbler style has two spring detents, the D style only has one spring loaded detent on the left side and a little tab without a spring which hooks under the right side safety

I suppose I do have a different perspective than most

Speak for yourself! Last time I bought primers I bought 60K, and 12K Montana Golds

Rowdy, you put a lot more rounds downrange than I do, have you worn a CZ out yet? I'd be interested to know what the usable life of the pistol is, so I could figure a good depreciation number per round. It's common to mix up expenses and assets and talk about a pistol like an expense, but it's really an asset. When you buy gun, the expenses are the taxes, fees, and that premium you lose when you drive a new car off the lot, but the basis of the gun has merely changed from cash to gun, then as the gun loses value with age and use, that loss is depreciation expense. If a $1,000 gun is completely worthless after 100,000 rounds the depreciation cost per round would be $0.01, but I suspect a Shadow with 100,000 rounds through it would be worth at least $500, making the cost per round $0.005. With a reloaded 9mm round costing between ten and 20 cents, choices in reloading components have a far more significant impact on your bottom line.

It might be possible, but why? There are plenty of safer, better powders to use.

I've sold the complete lower from a factory CZ75B in like new condition for $350, I've also bought/sold SP01 top ends for ~$350 in factory condition, here's one in the classifieds right now: Obviously adding things like magwells to bottom ends, or competition sights/comps/optics to top ends change things, but for factory CZs, they run about half the cost of the gun. You can trust me on this one, I bought or sold most of what's changed hands over the internet in the past five years

That looks like a small frame Tanfoglio someone fit these CZ75 grips to, but the won't work on a large frame Tanfoglio. http://lokgrips.com/gun-grips/cz-75/palm-swell/bogies/black-g10/

You would thin those holes would jet gas back towards the shooter pulling the gun forward, but you say it hits harder in the hand now?

This it the low hanging fruit: gun issues, mag issues, and ammo issues are big distractions so take the time to prepare and shoot a clean match. If you want to get faster don't rush your shooting and sacrifice points, do everything else faster (movement, reloads); I noticed three things in your dryfire video: you're wearing sandals (if you're going to spend the time practicing, why not take the time to get dressed?); you only reload from your front mag pouch (the easy one); and the cadence of your dryfire is much faster than you shoot in real life (it seems like you're just making the gun go "click" rather than simulating a shot). I think your biggest area for improvement is your movement: don't take three steps when one will do, have your upper body ready to break the shot as your lower body arrives in the shooting position and be moving out as your last shot breaks, and move like your life depends on it between shooting positions. I would not say you're "shooting too many As"

Same charge, lighter bullet is a good combo I've shot 10gr of 3n38 under a 100gr pill

There is only a minimum bullet weight for major, you can shoot minor with them.

If that was filmed at 30 frames per second you're missing a lot of what's going on, 240 is the bear minimum to capture more than a frame or two of the recoil cycle.

No

I think you're right Ben, that was probably 3/8", not 3/16"

I've used Techplate in Anaheim, CA and was very happy.

Dawson sells Witness front sights from 0.110" to 0.210"

I have seen a few different versions of the adjustable rear sight over the years which had slightly different height blades, it's possibe these a mismatch, did you buy it new? Either way, Dawson sells FO front sights in many heights, I suggest you dial the rear down to where you want it to be, point the pistol where you want to on the target, shoot a group, then measure the distance from center, use the calculator on Dawson's site and order a shorter front sight from them. https://dawsonprecision.com/sight-calculator/

My kind of build! You're right about the mount, 2011 mounts are all wrong, the dot sits high and to the left; they can be modified, but it's a pain. CZ or Tanfoglio is the way to go, but the holes need to be in different places for each and are a different pattern, so you might as well go with the factory Tanfoglio pattern for simplicity, I have some still from a special run Matt Cheely did. How long are your thumbs? It's a big factor in planning your mount/racker position. I'd love to help you through the planning and execution of this project and can provide or tell you where to buy all the parts you'll need.