bessy

Thanks for clarification... that makes sense

So I assumed that stacking feeling came from a spring that was two long, but it appears that's not always the case. In my specific case, the longer Extreme hammer spring had no real stacking, while wuth the shorter wolf 14lb spring I felt it stacking at the end. Stacking is generally caused by a spring having a non linear compression force, what I mean by that is as the spring compression the amount of force required to compress it further goes up exponentially. This can be caused by a spring that is to long, but that's of course not always the case.

Do I need to mess with the interrupter at all, or just swap out the sear, and hammer? I understand the need to fit the sear to the safety... that makes sense, as the hammer hook locations/geometry are going be changed. I don't have access to a range in my shop, so here is how I "test" firing pin force. I throw a pencil down the barrel, and the note how height it is tossed when I pull the trigger. This gives me a gross comparison point to look at when I swap parts around. Just a little trick I picked when trying to tune revo's.

I've got a set of those on my match... They work in a pinch, but they just aren't quite right. I can't quite put my finger on it. I really wish henning would make his large frame grips again those are the bomb.

Hey guys, I have a set of EG's extreme gribs for a stock II (like new), I'd like to swap them out for a set of either Henning, or EG's grips for a match, or stock I. I'd prefer hennings, but anything skinny at this point would be great. Grips I'm swapping for don't need to like new, as I'm just going to cover them with grip tape any way ;-)

Alright guys, Five hours of my life gone, and here is were I'm at. I completed the steps I outlined above, The gun went from around 12lbs double action to right around 6.75 Single action was 4-5 before, and is now right around 3.5-3.75 Certainly in the realm of shootable, but the stock II that jim from shooter ready did for me puts it to shame. I was able to get these results by simply swapping springs and using a henning extra long firing pin. No fancy hammer or trigger. I didn't bother swapping out the sear, with a single piece. I played around a little with other hammer springs, here is what I've found, The wolf 14 lbs hammer spring was much shorter than the extreme hammer spring of comparable weight, when I tried that out, I ended up with a heavier double action trigger, with more stacking toward the end, but a better single action trigger then with the extreme springs. 3 lbs 4 ozs as opposed to say 3lbs.10 ozs. I cut one coil off the wolf 14 lb hammer spring, just for shits and giggles. That yielded an improved double action trigger,but there still seemed to be some stacking, it also didn't seem to launch a pencil out of the barrel as well as the extreme hammer spring, so I'm wondering if ignition would get dicey. I think the extreme hammer springs are the way to go. I did notice that the firing pin block hung a up a couple times with new henning firing pin, so I'll need to sort that out. I'd also be interested in what you all have to say about the extreme hammer, and one piece sear.. If they are worth the investment or not.

I run a 14 lb hammer spring and a henning XL firing pin in my limited gun. I've never gotten a light primmer strike, and I use RIFLE primers in my 40 major loads. It's probably your over-travel screw.

Hey guys, I've read through the various walk throughs here. I'm in the process of polishing up various surfaces and swapping out springs in my stock 1 9mm. I need to keep the gun production legal for USPSA.I wanted some clarification on parts. Here is my current plan of action. 1. Polish up all the parts outlined in atlas's cz guide, (I've already polished the crap out of the plunger assembly). 2. Cut down the plunger spring a coil, 3. I'm replacing the hammer spring with a Extreme hammer spring at 13.8 lbs. 4. Replacing firing pin, with the henning extra long one (the one cut for the firing pin safety). 5. Replace firing pin spring with the the extreme light firing pin spring. 6. Replace the shorter mag release with an extended one (Like the one that ships with the stock II or match). 7. Throw in a 9 lb recoils spring. I also have a single piece sear and interrupter sitting around. So here is my question: Would you just stick with the stock two piece sear, and delta hammer, or do you think it's worth it to try out the single piece sear and interrupter with the the stock hammer? Any further guidance you folks could give with regard to polishing up the fcg? ~Thanks a ton!

Just wanted to update here. I talked to henning on the phone today. His current rear sight (which is the same as his old fixed rear sight is designed to work with a front sight of .180 height. He used to sell a front sight with a height of .140 but no longer does. Looks like a henning rear for me. with either a dawson or a henning front.

So, according to that link it looks like for that sight set the height is .105. This matches the front sight set I have on my match currently.. which seems too short. So I'm going to give the henning shop a call on monday and see if they still offer the .140 height. I sent you a PM about your used set, I'm very interested ;-)

Nealio, I assume you mean the henning .140 front sight? I don't see it listed anymore on his shop, or is this something you had dawson for you?

Hey guys, I recently (tonight), happened upon a stock 1 for a decent price and picked it up. My intention is to make it the backup to for my stock II. I currently own a stockII, limited, and match. I have a few questions I was hoping to pick some brains. 1. I noticed the stock 1 has no over travel adjustment, and the magazine release is not extended. Can I swap those parts out and still be legal for production? ( I see eaa sells both as OEM parts). If so anyone know where I could source a trigger with over travel, and an extend magazine release? One of you guys must have take offs maybe? ;-P 2. Sights, I'm going to swap out the stock sights. I'm leaning towards henning's sights, I have a set of these on my match gun, my only issue is that the front sight, seems a little short.... I know henning used to offer two versions of his match/stock sights (Target/Defensive). Now I only see one... so I'm wondering if maybe the design has changed, and maybe the front sight has a little more height. Any recommendations here? I'm open to suggestions. 3. Does henning still sell grip panels for large frame custom guns like the stock1. I appreciate all of your time.

Alrght, I had a chance to play with a 650. While I haven't played with a 1050 yet. I can honestly say I think the 650 will kick the snot out of my current setup. I went ahead and ordered a 650. I did really think hard about the 1050, but I decided on the 650. I think it will more than meet my needs, and if I need too I can add a bullet feeder. Thanks for all your input guys!

Alright guys, here's where I am at. I've been running a LNL AP for about 5 years. I load somewhere in the neighborhood 10-20k a year, of various calibers. I've slowly upgraded the LNL to include a case feeder/bullet feeder etc. I've pretty much ditched the bullet feeder because it doesn't work with moly coated rounds which is what I primarily use. The LNL is very easy to swap over, aside from the case feeder.. I can do high volume pistol on it but even with the case feeder I top out around 400-500 an hour. If I'm on fire I might see 600, but that is very rare. Here are my thoughts. 1. I'm wanting a second press that I can leave setup with my primary caliber (9mm, or 40 depending on if I'm shooting limited or production) 2. I feel like the lnl does an exceptional job with rifle.. and I have all the odd ball conversions and tweaks for it. (i've had to dick around with it for years so I have it figured out at this point) It swaps between calibers very quickly. I'm thinking I will keep it for all my odd ball loading. 3. I'm not sure if I should buy a 650 or a 1050 for my second press. I realize my volume probably doesn't justify a 1050, but I don't really think I will benefit for the lower conversion costs of a 650 since I will probably only use it for 1 or 2 calibers. The swagging feature on the 1050 also is nifty.. as I could get rid of my super swage. 4. As I have a c&r ffl... I'm looking at grafs and a 650 with case feeder is going to run me around 700 shipped, Where as a 1050 is going to run around 1500... What do you guys think?

You are not going crack the sellplate tightening it that way... Adding a lock washer doesn't change the way tighten the shell plate.