RaylanGivens

If it doesn't burn, it serves no purpose.

It would seem that unburned powder would be powder wasted... You should be able to reduce your load and stay at the same powerfactor...

I use that same paste lanolin that you use, but I don't mix it with alcohol... I don't mix it with anything... I spread a tiny bit on my hands and fingers and then work it into the brass by hand... I'll work through around 700 cases at a time kneeding the brass sort of like you would bread... Sometimes I'll roll the brass between my hands. I do it this way to eliminate getting any of the lanolin inside the neck of the brass... I don't want to contaminate the powder charge... However, I noticed watching the 6.5 Guys video that they wipe the lanolin inside the case neck on purpose... Why do they do that? Do you guys worry about spraying the lanolin mixture into the neck of the cases?

I tried Kroll and didn't have much luck... Did you soak it overnight or something?

This just happened to a friend of mine, too... Did the same thing after he got it back from Ruger... He is going to send it back for a second time... Interesting that this problem is more widespread than we thought.

You must not be using a 1050... The swage rod jams on the stepped cases and stops the reloading process... Better to remove them before you start reloading...

Just turn the cases up, like the picture above... Then you can see the step regardless of headstamp... Unless you are also sorting by headstamp.

When a primer pulls back into a case instead of decapping, it really mucks up the process... I've tried all kinds of smoothing, polishing, and trimming on decapping pins... Thinning the pins down and beveling the point helps, but not all the time... Some brass seems to have the primers welded in... I'm thinking about a separate decapping step, too...

I thought there might be a change in the actual casting... I use the dual springs on my 1050's instead of the linkage... Seems to make it run smoother... Never thought about ordering one of the old linkage plates... I wonder if you can still get them?

What's the difference between the old style powder measure and the new style powder measure? Trying to figure out which versions I have. The powder measure seems loose on one of my 1050's... I replaced the plastic collar sleeve (#13845) with a new one, but it didn't seem to make any difference.

I'm shooting 115gr 9mm bullets with HS6 in my Open gun, and very happy with it... Lately I've been thinking about trying AA7... I know you're an HS6 fan, have you ever tried AA7?

Assuming your Limited gun runs Major, it should have more recoil than your Open gun (due to the comp). Still, grip your Open gun hard with your support hand... It will steady the dot and help you get back for your second shot (when needed).

Shooting to clean your comp... who knew... Man... That's a lot of holes... assume 38s?

Have your shooters register in an online app like MatchSignUp... Export the registration data from MatchSignUp into PractiScore before the match... No more typing, shooters add their own data.

1.190 is really long for 9mm... Have you had any trouble with bullets separating from the cases?

Check your batteries with a multi-meter before an important match... or any match. New batteries are usually 3.28 volts... I change them when they get under 3.00 volts.

Of course... Never thought about cleaning that... Thanks.

The diode channel on an RTS2? Where the heck is it? I assume you clean it through the battery door opening?

Any examples or a writeup on cutting the second sear and hammer hook height dimensions?

How did you two locate your GoGuns gas pedals? Is that just the way they came from Atlas? Seems odd that the gun with the longer trigger has the thumb rest closer... and the thumb rest farther away on the gun with the shortest trigger... Curious?

Thanks! Nice job on the trimming... Looks factory!

Very nice! What is your left safety? Looks wider than normal... Is the right safety the same shape?

What's with the *thumb rest [generic]* terminology?

Never heard of abrasive grease or 600 grit non-embedding bore polish... Found these on Google: http://www.formaxmfg.com/coated-abrasive-grease-sticks https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Non-Embedding-Bore-Cleaning-Compound/dp/B0018L9UOW I took a fairly sharp 1/8" drill bit and spun it by hand against the firing pin hole going in through the firing pin stop end of the slide... Couldn't make much headway. My Dawson Precision extended firing pin (.067") now slide freely through the firing pin hole, but the Matt McLearn firing pin (.069") hits a hard spot about 1/4" into the firing pin hole (when pushing it in through the breech hole.

Curious about adding oil to the firing pin hole... I've never added oil to the firing pin hole in any gun I've had... and never had it cause any problems... This includes two STI Edge Limited guns and a Springfield SingleStack gun... However my STI Trubor Open gun has had some firing pin binding issues of late... Could lack of oil be a problem?