RaylanGivens

You can export a match in .psc file format... You can then import the .psc file into Android PractiScore Competitor. Not sure of the .psc file format... Never looked at one.

Just take out the sear...

Much better idea... Thanks! Dont' have a drill press, but do have a drill... I work slow and try to be careful, but I'm probably closer to a blacksmith than a gunsmith...

Checked the primers and they look good... No metal chips when I run a pipe cleaner through the firing pin hole in the slide... Also blew out the firing pin hole in the slide with an air gun... I'm shooting 9mm and using Winchester Small Rifle primers... Is it possible that an extremely worn firing pin spring would rattle around during shooting and peen the outside of the firing pin hole in the slide and make it start binding on the firing pin?

Received my McClearn firing pin today... The tip is .069" diameter as claimed... It is slightly tight in the firing pin opening. How do you polish the tip down in size while keeping it round? Maybe put some 1200 grit sandpaper down on a flat surface and then press the firing pin tip down against it... then spin the other end of the FP with your finger? ...or is there a more accurate method?

Sweet! Great writeup...

Three pouches and a magnet... Don't always use them all...

Cleaned out the firing pin chamber with a drill bit again and installed a new Dawson extended firing pin with a new Wolff firing pin spring... Shot our weekly Friday night match... about 100 rounds... gun functioned well... Couldn't tell that it was a stronger/different firing pin spring. Took it apart this morning and the new firing pin still slides inside the firing pin channel without binding... Curious if the new Wolff firing pin spring could have stabilized the firing pin somehow?

Shot our local Friday night fun shoot with the new Wolff spring... The gun shot well... no noticeable difference to be honest.

I cut the 13 coil springs down to 12 coils for 155 magazines... Still 25 rounds reloadable, but can go to 26 if you want to... I start at 26 and use the extra round for a barney round...

First I have heard of the Matt McLearn firing pins... They look like a quality product and Shooters Connection (my favorite store and an Enos sponsor) sells them... One thing I noticed is that the McLearn firing pin is .069 at the tip, while the Dawson Precision extended firing pins are .067 at the tip... Not sure if that would cause any problems for me... Already having a binding issue... I'll try one and see how it works. For now, I'm going to put one of the Wolff springs in and try it.

Thank you for a great explanation... I couldn't figure out why Wolff packaged extra power long springs with all their recoil springs... An extra power recoil spring just seemed backwards to me. I have been having trouble with the firing pin binding in the firing pin hole in my TruBor's slide... Maybe my 'probably worn out' spring is causing the firing pin to rattle around and gall the sides of the firing pin opening in the slide... making it bind.

Good question... I assumed mine was lower powered because it was shorter... Maybe it was just worn out... I use standard springs in my Limited and SingleStack guns and have never noticed any wear.

I shoot a 9mm STI Trubor in Open... The firing pin spring is starting to wear on the sides... I'd like to get another FP spring, but I don't want to use a super long, super heavy Wolff spring. I use Wolff variable rate recoil springs, so I have lots of the firing pin springs that come with their recoil springs... I don't understand why anyone would want an "extra power" firing pin spring? Doesn't that just make it harder for the hammer to push the firing pin into the primer? More resistance from the spring? Plus, they are super long. What's a good firing pin spring for an STI Open gun?

After I cleaned out the firing pin hole with a .062 drill bit (pushing it back and forth a few times by hand) , the current firing pin was much looser... Shot about 150 rounds at a local match Tuesday night and another 150 rounds in practice this afternoon... Took it apart tonight and the firing pin (Dawson extended firing pin) was a bit tight... but not as tight as the previous time I took it apart. The tight spot isn't at the breech end... It's about 1/4 inch past the opening in the breech... when I push the original firing pin through the hole in the breech face, it tightens up after about a 1/4 inch... Makes me wonder if the firing pin spring could be peening the bottom of the firing pin hole in the slide? I still have the original STI firing pin spring and the sides of the spring have worn down some due to friction... I was going to replace it with one of the Wolff FP springs that come with their recoil springs, but it was too long... was afraid of light strikes, so I kept using the OEM spring. The gun has been shooting flawlessly... which surprises me somewhat...

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/reamers/1911-pin-hole-reamers-prod32364.aspx I found these reamers at Brownell's, but no firing pin hole reamer...

I have several thousand rounds through this slide without any firing pin sticking problems... It is a replacement slide from STI... The original slide's extractor bore was off center and caused massive extraction problems... STI replaced the slide and barrel. I'm not sure what size reamer to get... I have the Kuhnhausen books, but they don't specify the firing pin hole diameter... At least that I can find. Is there a spec sheet for STI 9mm slides? Also not sure what could have caused the firing pin hole to tighten up... I have never put any oil in the firing pin hole on any of my 19/2011 guns... I noticed that Dave Dawson put some oil down the firing pin hole in one of his "Building 1911" DVDs. Is it best to put some oil in the firing pin hole? Could it be rust tightening up the hole?

The firing pin hole in the slide of my STI Trubor tightened up on the firing pin... I noticed it was a little tight while cleaning it after the first day of the Florida Open... I cleaned it out and it felt a bit better... It shot fine on the second day of the FLOP and I forgot about it... Taking my gun apart to clean it back at home I noticed that the firing pin was now very tight in the firing pin hole... I'm actually surprised that I didn't have any trouble on the second day of the match. Thinking it was carbon buildup in the hole, I soaked it in carbon cleaner... That had almost no effect... I put some Flitz on the end of the firing pin and tried to polish it out... That didn't do much either. Finally I measured the outside diameter of the front part of the firing pin... the part that extends through the slide... It was .067" in diameter... I found a .062" drill bit and worked it in and out of the hole in the slide... by hand... That did help and the firing pin is now free again. Is this something that happens on Open guns? Is there a reamer sized to open up the firing pin hole in a slide?

Ordered a can from Amazon... Thanks for the tip...

1lb 13oz is pretty light... What were you hoping for?

Did you buy the two cans deal direct from the manufacturer?

Anyone ever try Slip 2000 to remove lead?

I find the 155's much easier to reload... It's easier to push them into the magwell than a 140... and it never hurts to have a couple of extra rounds.

I have 3 RTS2 sights... One on a Ruger 22/45 Steel Challenge gun that has never failed... and 2 for my Open gun, which have now both failed. I performed the "remove the battery and reinsert it" test on both of the RTS2 sights I use on my Open gun and both passed... indicating version 4 circuit boards... they have both failed... They both stopped while running a stage and would never turn on again... not even with new batteries. When C-More repaired my first RTS2, they said the upgraded it to a version 4 circuit board, so I guess the on-off test doesn't really show that you have a version 4 circuit board... I'm running that sight in my Open gun now. My second RTS2 is currently at C-More... Hopefully they'll repair it and send it back to me before the Florida Open.

I also do some scraping, but I use an old brass punch as a scraper... It scrapes fairly well, but doesn't gouge an aluminum comp. Do you remove the comp to soak it in the vinegar/peroxide solution?