hornetx40

you can shoot USPSA @ LPRGC in Oaks , PA Just off the Oaks exit of 422, Also at Ontelaunne in New Tripoli, PA. There is also the PA Steel league and Steel Challenge Matches in the area.

If you go on Rimfire central and go to the section on the ruger. You will find all of the info you need. You can make it a 2lb trigger that is good. It's a good gun but it needs some fixes to make it better and more reliable. Like ripping out that damned LCI and replacing it with a blank....because otherwise dirt builds up there and won't let the bolt always close. You'll see all of the info you need there or just ask and they'll help.

That gun is a much better choice. Do the mods to the trigger,

Buy the Rudy glasses, They have a multitude of lenses for any situation and they change out easily. Guaranteed and ansi rated. Good glasses are as important as good optics. You don't take a $4000 gun and throw $40 optics on it. You will be amazed at what sport specific lenses can do for you.

Tacsol doesn't make the 7.5" any more. I had a bunch of the 5.5" with a comp of my own design. I tried a 4.5" also....I didn't see a difference in times but there is little difference in the weight of the 4.5" to the 5.5" tacsol barrels. I use a comp to steady the gun as I am leaving the target you can often see your hit. Use a comp that is easy to clean and actually works. There a lot of comps that do nothing but make the shooter feel better.... A light barrel is definitely better than a steel bull barrel. The model 41, although a great gun, is not the right choice for steel ...way to heavy even with a short barrel.

The trigger has almost nothing to do with a Kaboom. That is more about getting the slide completely back into battery.

its covered under Disqualifications : Safety Violations , Sect 8.1.1.8 Holstering a loaded handgun without the external safety applied or on a revolver, hammer cocked. So if you holster any gun that has an external safety without it engaged you are DQ'd. They just added that rule back in 2013.

with a little heat from a hair dryer the Taron Tactical grips work great

Don't ever allow your slide to close on a round that is in the chamber. The extractors are designed to have the case slide up behind the claw from the bottom. Forcing the extractor over a case head will damage it. It's called a bubba load for a reason. You can get away with it in most rimfires because they are designed with a lot more movement in the extractor

BallisticianX You started off talking about steel loads...You said you have a 3 port comp. But now you are pushing up towards major PF loads. Steel has no PF requirements so why abuse yourself and shoot loads with twice as much powder. Use either 115 gr or 95 gr bullets. Shoot for a load around a 120 PF. That means 1040 fps with the 115 or 1265 with the 95's. To do that you will not be able to use WAC. Autocomp likes higher velocities with those bullets to shoot clean. You need a faster burning powder like Titegroup to shoot clean at the slower velocities. You will have to change the recoil spring in your gun to shoot the lighter loads. I have done this in both a glock open gun with the same comp you are using and in 1911 open guns. The glock is harder to get to run the light loads due to making sure it locks up on return to battery. To light of a spring and it won't lock up. the 1911/2011's are much easier to get to return to battery with light loads. Remember there isn't a PF requirement in steel ..shoot light loads and have fun

I agree. That is the sole reason I put mine back on. I shoot the same speed with or without.

If there is money on the table no, it's unsportsmanlike. When payback is going by Lewis system I would hate to affect the placing of even the bottom group of shooters. At a league match we help the new shooters and even let them refire if the wheels come off.

Supposedly no more matches at SIG academy, since someone shot themselves while drawing.

It just figures that Jerry would do that. That is just amazing

Lower Providence Rod and Gun Club also shoots USPSA, Near Collegeville. It's about 45 minutes south east from Topton

You are not doing anything different than any other new shooter does. Practice will bring your round count per match way down. It doesn't have to be live fire. Practice your draw and first shot. That will give you the most improvement. Don't pull the trigger until you have the sights just right. The speed will come. It is much faster to shoot 5 shots on 5 targets, than to shoot 10 or 12. It is a 3 second penalty for any plates not hit before the stop plate and it's a 30 second penalty for not hitting the stop plate. Go slow until you learn how to draw the gun safely and shoot accurately. the speed will come with time.

Scott you need to really slow down and make sure your grip is perfect before carefully and slowly drawing the gun.....LOL...sorry I just couldn't pass that up...See ya Sunday

Ryan if you are the guy from PA....PM me you can shoot mine if you want to try before you buy

There is a club near Hollidaysburg that shoots falling steel. Hollidaysburg sportsmen's club... I don't know if they also shoot SCSA, check their website. There is SCSA in Ohio and in Eastern PA. Look up PA Steel shooters league, also the PA state championship will be held at Guthsville rod and gun clib... look up Pa Steel Challenge

I only found a difference after shooting the 90 degree mount long enough to get better. When I installed it many shooters will tell you it blocks your view to the left which will slow you down when acquiring a target moving to the left. But when you aren't good enough to notice it....It has no effect. As I got a little faster and more accurate I finally noticed it blocking my view as I was closing in on a target....not good for me so then I switched my guns back to a regular mount. Never be afraid to experiment....failure is a great teacher if you are listening.

The distance of the center of the optic to the center of the bore will change your sight in distance. If You use the Sierra infinity program you can see the perfect distance to sight in for any load and gun combo that you have.

It's easier on the sizing die, and the case comes off the flaring die much easier. The lube won't contaminate anything. And you will stop seeing the brass filings all over the shell plate.

Light loads are best if they run the gun properly. When you get into colder weather for the 1 or 2 months that it cools off in LA. Your current load may not eject completely. Just get it going so the brass clears better or you will have jams. Then run that load all the time and you won't notice it after a bit of practice. If the brass is just dribbling out you may still have to heavy of a recoil spring. But make sure the gun always goes back into battery with a lighter spring.

on a bushing barrel it's for more even wear on the bushing while still getting the weight reduction.

Another sponsor for you to get Scott....good idea!!....Free to the match is always a good idea. I wonder if Home Depot or Lowes would sponsor?