EngineerEli

I completely agree...

I actually just saw some on the shelf at a local gun shop. Wonder if they are becoming any more available?

Just for the record, I am friends with Steve, and he is shooting major PF hand loads, with a pretty quick powder, ramshot comp if I recall. I also don't recall him having to get two warranty replacements, I know he bough a 'backup' right before sending in the first one that had the crack. I admit EAA did drag their feet on it for a while. He actually just broke an extractor at the match last week, but honestly, its an easy part to keep a spare. In my experience, I would not consider Tanfos prone to failure, certainly not minor PF ones. My Stock II has never broken anything, but I only have maybe 5-6k through it.

Definitely just have a .40 barrel fitted to the gun, as said, you can probably keep using your 10mm mags, though loading long may keep things cycling more reliably. Post a WTB add here for a .40 1911 barrel, I'm sure you will get responses with good prices.

My though exactly, if you're going to try it, start with a really really low on the powder and watch VERY carefully as you go up... EDIT: ...And, you best be loading LONG.

Where did you get them, straight from the Netherlands? I really like the look of the contour and texture. Are you happy with them? Any how idea how they compare to the grips available locally?

I use the canik pin in my stock II, and Just ordered one for my new Lim Pro. If I recall, if your trigger pin holes are a little small, just chuck the pin up in a drill and hit it with some fine sand paper, checking frequently until the pin snugly fits. I think I used 320 for fitment then went 600 and 1500 to polish, and finished up with a paper towel with some mothers polish for a mirror finish.

What kind of grips are those???

I guess it is paying for a FO front sight, AL grips, better and I think more consistent machining, and a better finish... Still not sure it makes it any better than the Tanfo if you're willing to put a little work into it. If you want to shoot the gun out of the box, the CZ could be a better option.

I'm experiencing the same thing with my new Lim Pro. What I found was that the creep actually got worse from me after polishing. Before polishing the face of the sear is still blued, and both surfaces are 'relatively' rough. This provides enough friction for the tension of the sear against the hooks to load up untill there is enough for the sear to clear the hooks as soon as it starts moving. Problem is once everything is all slicked up and oiled, even a small amount of pressure against the sear leg from your trigger/trigger bar, gets the sear start sliding up the hooks. I notice the same rearward camming thing with my polished factory hammer. That is pretty common for factory guns, because I believe it makes them safer. Even if the trigger is touched and the sear starts to lift, the hammer tension, will push the sear back down once the trigger is released, hence creep... Part of me wants to try messing with the hooks, but I don't really feel like spending the money on a Titan hammer for my backup, if I screw it up. I suppose if you really wanted to increase your sa trigger pull weight, you could touch your sear with some 220 grit or so, maybe?

They are honestly even more similar seeing them side by side than I though they would be...

Personally I think the bull barrel is a pretty big deal, more weight to your barrel, less to the reciprocating slide. The extra quarter inch is not just your sight radius, which I think is worthwhile, but also means you have a quarter inch more of barrel. This means if or when you reload you can probably get away with a tenth or so less powder which in my opinion does effect recoil feel. Also, unless you plan to buy an aftermarket magwell and new base pads all right away, don't forget that the limited comes with them, and the other two don't. The standard base pads for the Stock II and III will not fit with a magwell on the gun.

Ben appears to have them for $1100 http://benstoegerproshop.com/eaa-tanfoglio-witness-elite-limited-40-s-w/

I had no clue Schuemann hybrid barrels existed for Glocks, sounds like a fun project. Does the barrel already have holes in the rib?

For those of you that like Seether's music, or those that don't, take a look at the album cover from their Isolate and Medicate album. I've see it hundreds of times but am just today noticing there is what I' pretty sure is a CZ 75 shadow shown on it. I feel like every time you see a gun in the media its a 1911, glock, or Beretta, so this is an interesting place for a CZ to pop up! For those of you that don't know of them but like what Wikipedia describes as post-grunge, alternative metal, hard rock, and nu metal, check them out! I really like the Disclaimer album but they're all pretty good.

Wow, that says a lot. I'm very exited to try shooting them side by side this weekend!

I'm just saying the balance front to back, if you put both hanging with a dowel through the trigger guards, they both hang at about the same angle. I have yet to get a real feel for the difference between transitions and recoil control. That's very surprising that some Stock II's had the solid back strap, where some had a lightened one. I like my Stock II very much, I was just curious to see how the slightly improved sight radius effected things and how a lighter gun would feel in the transitions. One will be the backup for the other, but the primary is yet to be determined. Both take the same mags and fit in the same holster, I'm just using one for a Limited, so I'm G2G.

So it looks like these are really nearly gone off the American market, but I got one!!! Just picked it up at my FFL yesterday. It is interesting how the balance is actually nearly identical to my Stock II. I also never knew that in addition to weight being cut from the shorter dust cover, the frame is lightened under the grip on the Lim Pro where they are not on the Stock II. I will say it still irritates me that my first Stock II maybe 5-6 years ago, before they got popular, had fantastic checkering on the front and back strap, and now on my newer stock II and this Lim Pro the checkering is just straight up sloppy... Pics, because why not:

I keep seeing this on Prime and wanting to give it a shot. Just been busy.. If you are looking for other stuff to watch on prime after your finish this series, I love The Grand Tour, if you liked the old BBC Top Gear, or cars in general. lots of movies available too.

Now that you say that, that may have been the situation actually, wall was touching the fault line....

Pretty sure the hand and knee part is not correct. I recall one stage where there was a real tough shot around a wall, and the end of the wall was outside of the shooting area, but we had the CRO confirm we were allowed to hold on to the wall with one hand if we wanted to take the shot one handed. I've never heard of any reference to, or experienced a situation where someone had a knee fault...

My thought was that if you use a faster powder, you have a better chance of all the powder burning before the bullet leaves the barrel compared to a slower powder where you may still have a little remainder of powder making a little fireball behind the bullet as it leaves the barrel. My specific experience has been between powders like Power Pistol (big fireball and slow) and powders like WST, N320, or Titegroup (faster powders and less muzzle flash). WW231 could also be grouped with the faster powders, though not quite as fast as the other I mentioned.

I've been down this road before too. They guys I shoot with, many of which very high level shooters, and ROs, agree with the first explanation. They actually went a step further and would start one foot fully inside, then the other on the wood fault line, and a toe angled down to touch the ground outside the shooting area, at the buzzer, they lifted their toe and began shooting. You can stand on a fault line and your are inside the shooting area, but touch a toe down outside the shooting area and you out... I will say that for all the stages we design, if we really want the shooter to start outside the shooting area, we just say " fully outside the shooting area" that eliminates any potential for gaming.

That's some pretty cool innovation for AR triggers, though more complex. But hey, its a lifetime warranty and its permanently enclosed in its housing. I'm certainly intrigued....