Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About IronArcher

  • Rank
    Calls Shots
  • Birthday 03/31/1968

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Archery, Martial arts, firearms, motorcycle road racing.
  • Real Name

Recent Profile Visitors

943 profile views
  1. “Oil eater”, and if it’s really bad, a brass brush. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  2. Edit: time of wear test was 2 minute, not 5. Next tests will be 30 second intervals x5 rounds at a speed as close to 20 FPS as possible. Last test calculated to only around 12 FPS.
  3. That’s a good idea. I may well add that to the test. Might look at it like the guy that cleans and lubes every trip to the range, vs. the guys that clean after more than a few thousand rounds. Do note though, the thickest oil performed almost identically to the thinnest synthetic auto Lube.
  4. The test method was designed to closer replicate what is going on with a gun. Specifically, a semi auto. Most wear tests use an oil reservoir. Guns don’t (cars do). It tests wear resistance, and how well your lubricant will keep working without a constant supply. Take it for what it is worth, for some that means nothing. For me, it is a reliable and repeatable test that closer represents wear in firearms. For the above question, the T-6 was the 5w-40, and did do the best. One other feature of the T-6 (that I don’t know how to test) is that it deals well with soot. Mobil SHC 634 was very close, but this is a very thick industrial oil that probably isn’t best for keeping fast moving parts moving fast. As for the results and what they mean, again, they might not mean much. I have used CorrosionX exclusively for years without any signs of failure. It didn’t do great on the wear test, but it did OK. Surprises were Frog Lube and XP222 grease. Both did poorly. When applied as directed, the Frog Lube was low friction, but high wear... it didn’t last. Using it like oil, it did better, but I’m not sure how long it would stay put... it’s very thin. Xp222 was the worst grease, hardly any better than nothing. Thinner greases faired better. Kroil was another surprise. I didn’t expect it to do as well as it did. Others have sworn by it, so I added it to the test. Clearly, synthetic oils worked the best. So that’s what I use on wear probe parts. CorrosionX on everything else. Your mileage may vary.... or not.
  5. As mentioned, it is possible that none of this really matters. That said, if it does, these are the results of my wear testing. If you are not familiar with some of these lubricants, ask me and I’ll give more detail. Tests were done with a rotating smooth steel rotor on a section of steel bar stock. All had the same amount of pressure and ran for the same amount of time (I have to find my notes, but I believe it was 5 minutes) at 700 RPM. This is different from some other tests as I did not maintain a supply of oil or grease to the parts. Parts were wetted, what stayed stayed, what didn’t didn’t... just as it would on a gun.
  6. After a lot of testing. I settled on Rotella T-6 for any sliding/moving bits, and Corrosion X on the rest. I found most CLPs suck at preventing wear, grease traps heat, and dirt, and doesn’t stay where you really want it to stay... especially on slide rails. In the end, does it really matter? I don’t know, but I know I am not paying more for some CLP, that doesn’t prevent wear or Corrosion as good as the Synthetic oil I already have or Corrosion X that still costs a lot less than “gun lube”. And I’m not using grease on reciprocating parts, or parts I want to try to keep cool.
  7. How does one milk a gun? [emoji6] Sorry, it was too good. I would be interested in seeing some examples and what the perceived real world benefits were/are.
  8. I was happy to accidentally buy my Brand new Lim Pro for $700 a couple of years ago. As for the question on why people are all about the Lim Pro but not the Stock III, Weight. The Lim Pro can make weight for CO and IDPA classes much easier than a Stock III. If shooting Production, Stock IIs get most of the love. Next one I get might be a limited gun, but whatever it is, it will be hard chrome, or it will get plated or something.
  9. As mentioned, the Lim Pro is perfectly legal... as long as you use one safety. Patriot defense Bolo is a great upgrade. A full polish job is essential. Toss on a nice fiber optic front sight, and you are good to go. Red Hill Tactical and Fox Valley Custom Kydex are my 2 go to choices for holsters. Always go double layer kydex.
  10. I run a Lim Pro (Same frame as the Stock II,III ETC). I have only handled a Shadow 2 once, but the Tanfo did ‘feel’ bigger/better. I have XXL hands and even on the Tanfo, I need to use some of the the largest grips I can find. (Patriot Palm swell we’re sweet, saving up for the aluminum version, also have been running Toni system grips). I tried a Glock but could not index quickly with it. I’m 100% confident that it is all what you are used to. Seems the Tanfo has no trouble in the hands of the winners in production for the last how many years (usually dominating the top 3). Not sure the issue the above had with the worked over Stock II he handled... and Tanfo surely has a reputation of not being the most consistent... that said, I don’t think there is anything on them that can’t be dialed in. My Lim Pro has been virtually perfect.... after a good polish job of course
  11. When gear has a significant impact on the results (eg. open vs revolver, not production with an aftermarket hammer vs. stock), you need divisions that allow or draw more people to the sport, knowing what they have, and what they want to shoot, is not necessarily going to determine their success... their shooting will. Classes should not (IMO) get awards... but they are useful at least to gauge your progress. I would never try to tell anyone “I kicked ass! I took first in “D” class!!!” It’s like saying “I sucked less than the suckiest shooters there, praise me!” Nothing against D class shooters, but it’s nothing to brag about... it is a reference point. Now, if you take 1st in production, or SS, or whatever... as long as you had more than a couple of guys to shoot against, that can be something to be proud of if we are all worried about feelings. At the same time, if we have divisions that are routinely populated by only a couple of shooters... that is a division worth discussing. Going by the average match, L10, and revolver would be ones to look at. But eliminating ALL divisions, that makes no sense for the sport at all.
  12. Divisions make sense. It allows for people to get into the sport at a lower cost. It allows people to choose what they want to compete with (and by compete, I mean competitively). If you like reloading and think it is a skill that should be well developed to be a top shooter, shoot production or SS. Want to spend a lot of cash on an awesome hot rod gun, shoot Open Want to split the difference, shoot Carry Optics. Want to shoot a rifle at a pistol match, shoot PPC Most other sports seem to have either a higher number of divisions, or a higher number of classes... rarely both.
  13. What would be the point of shooting any division other than open?
  14. So.... if I shoot a bunch in SS or production, but then buy an Open gun, I am suddenly A class from B class? Just shoot all your matches in production and go to sectionals with an open gun to win your class?
  15. They look pretty long. I’ll have to get a set to see how much trimming I would want to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Create New...