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EngineerEli

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Everything posted by EngineerEli

  1. I actually figured out a few things... I took the trigger return spring out, then put everything back together, and felt the action. I also tried sliding the trigger bar in the rear assembly with the trigger out of the frame, then tried putting the trigger and pin in with out the rear trigger housing installed, with and without the slide lock in place, to isolate where the friction was really coming from. First I was getting a lot of drag from the slide lock spring. It was bent in such a way that the trigger was dragging on it badly. I recontoured that, and actually reduced the pull by maybe 8 oz or more. I also removed a little material off the side of the trigger spring arm on the crusiform to clearance it from the trigger housing, and beveled the trigger housing a little to make sure it was not dragging. I then broke the edges a little better on my FPB and smoothed the FPB lifter and re-polished both. The resulting trigger is definitely smother, and I'm now getting an average 5 lb 9 oz pull. (I did put the 6 lb trigger spring back in it) Could be a little more in it, but this is much better given the simple parts I started with. Is 5 lb 9 oz starting to sound reasonable for a 6 lb trigger spring and 4 lb striker spring and otherwise stock parts. I know I should go up to 4.5 for reliability, but I'll change that out at some point...
  2. Call the beverage in the first post what you will, It is delicious, effectively caffeinated, and is nice to look at. Try to tell me you all don't have pretty guns that are nice to look at and to shoot...
  3. Sounds like good advice but I'm trying to figure out why, with a 4 lb spring, I'm getting a 7+ lb trigger pull. I'm getting excessive friction somewhere...
  4. It wasn't terrible but I did notice that. any... did end up putting the stock one back in that came with the kit and I agree it feels better. Didn't seem to change the pull weight much if any... Sounds like my pull weight is still about 2 lbs higher than it should be...
  5. Nope... Its is my only Glock platform... I mean what should my pull weight be for the parts and polishing I have. Am I in the ballpark? It seems high to me. If I look in the crack between the slide and the frame, I can see as I pull, the trigger bar makes contact with the connector, starts moving down just slightly, then I hit the wall, which I guess means I'm trying to pull the sear down off the striker. Things just seem heavier and not as smooth as they should be, but I feel like I have polished all the sliding surfaces. It honestly feels like the wings on the trigger bar are dragging on the trigger housing, as the end of it slides down the connector. Even with the slide off, I can feel this dragging... Do people ever need to take material off the front of the wings, or off the ramped surfaces they interface on the trigger housing? I have been thinking about trying a Ghost 5 lb Tactical connector. I hear that moves the striker release point rearward a little, I wonder if that would improve anything...
  6. I just looked at it again, and thought about it a little more and I guess I jumped to conclusions on that solution. I have over travel after the striker releases, and its not like I get the trigger to the rearmost travel then only after squeezing really hard that it releases. I'm thinking that's not it... Since I'm comfortable with most forms of modification, and the worst case scenario is I have to get a replacement Glock part. I'd like to identify what the actual problem is and try to fix it, instead of just throwing more parts at it. I'm realizing the Glock trigger system is so simple, there just aren't that many things to go wrong... I can also mention that I did at one point have the trigger spring hook going around the side of the trigger bar instead of its proper place on the bottom and that made the trigger pull way worse, so now I know to make sure it is facing straight down. Other ideas of things to check?
  7. @bubba72 I think this may be my problem, just looked and it looks like it is touching! I'll have to work that area tonight and see, then report back. I knew I loved this forum, the wealth of knowledge is immense!
  8. Another thing that may be a clue to something is the action of the trigger in its current state. People always say Glocks have a rolling trigger unless you go with something like an 8 lb connector. The standard connector in my parts kit, i believe to be a 5.5, but my trigger pulls with relative ease back to a pretty defined wall, I sometimes feel the trigger go back another half a millimeter with a little extra pressure, then I just keep applying more and more pressure until the trigger breaks, no more movement ahead of the break. I actually prefer this style of 'crisp' trigger since I come from mostly single action guns, but I really wish the trigger broke between 4 and 5 lbs, 7+ is a little much , and seems like way too much for the springs and parts I have installed...
  9. I'm not entirely sure what the PN is, the only marking on the package is on the price tag, from whoever originally sold it... Maybe 40.5984 is the PN? Promised pics of it installed: I ended up getting some fresher grips, and switching back to the origonal safety for the time being, I think this gun may turn more into a collectable than anything else...
  10. I have done a lot of searching but have not been able to find the culprit. If I missed an obvious post please feel free to link me. Anyway, I was looking for something fun this winter so I decided to do a P80 build. I went with a full size G17 style. This is my first Glock (style) gun because I never liked the grip, the P80 being closer to 1911 grip angle is much better, but the front of the grip is still a little square. For that reason, I'm still learning the trigger system, and what areas are the most critical to trigger pull. I admit, I tried to minimize costs, so there is a chance the reason for my issues is cheap parts, but I would think bending, filing, sanding, and polishing can overcome most deficiencies. Heck, I have $250 DBFS9 that I did a trigger job on and it's quite satisfying. I did go threaded barrel in case I decide to mess around with a comp and go open with it, but for now its just a fun project / experiment / learning experience. With this build the lowest I have been able to get the trigger pull is about 7 lb 3oz. It does drop down a little lower with the slide lock removed... From my research this set up should be yielding a 4-5 lb pull I thought... Also if I remove the slide and pull the trigger forward, just before the trigger safety engages, then let it return slowly, I can still feel gritty ness, and it gets hung up. Does not make it all the way back on its own, when I pull the trigger it moves back about another 1-2 mm. Parts and actions taken: - Unbranded parts kit, in P80 FS940V2 Frame Stainless slide - 4 Lb Striker Spring - 6 Lb trigger spring, also trying the stock one with the kit, which actually feels better than the 6... - Reduced FPB spring - Polished FPB - Polished trigger bar (crusaform?) - Polished striker - Polished disco - Polished right side rear frame rail section that sandwiches the trigger bar - Disco bent so that it should have minimal drag. Tried to line up the inside top edge with the top corner of the trigger housing. I went a little too far, and the reset got very weak, so I bent it back out slightly from there. Any ideas on what I can take a look at, tweak, fit, polish? Thanks All!
  11. I ended up giving this one a try, and it actually fits perfectly! Not sure if that is a part that can still be purchased or if that number on the sticker is the actual part number. But the actual part in this photo, does fit in and function well in my Jericho 941.
  12. Update! I ended up giving the double sided EAA safety a try that Kneelingatlas offered up, it seemed to be the only one who's measurements checked out. Ended up fitting perfectly. I though I may have had to fit the sear spring leg retaining slot in the safety shaft, but it seemed to fit just right. I of course had to stone the sear safety lobe a little but that is expected. I'll try to post some photos when I get a chance. @kneelingatlas Thanks for helping me out with this safety!
  13. The parts we are looking for, do not have the small round captured detent as you show. It has a bore for a spring, and a little round nub for the 'tombstone' piece to press against.
  14. I posted some additional measurements in my other topic. Determined the current polymer one is too wide. The one kneelingatlas had looks like it should fit, so I'm going to give that one a try. I'll report back results.
  15. So I have a few findings to report. Another member here did me the favor of measure the width of his polymer frame and it is 1.105". Unfortunately this doesn't match my 941. The measurements I took off it this morning on my Jericho are; Frame width: 1.008" Safety Shaft dia: 0.157" Safety 'Hub' dia: 0.313" I'm also being told that the much older Tanfoglio steel framed safeties are compatible. Frame width is 0.998 and shaft dia is 0.156". Also looks like there is the possibility for the pre B CZ 75 safeties (single sided) at least to be compatible... http://apexgunsmithing.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/DSC02945.jpg http://apexgunsmithing.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/DSC02946-768x431.jpg
  16. I felt bad taking over someone else's topic, so I created my own...
  17. I picked up one of the recent surplus Jericho 941F (Frame Safety full size 4.5 barrel) with HC finish. I have been watching for one of these for a while and when these showed up, and with the cool star emblem on engraved on the frame, I decided to pull the trigger. What can I say, these pistols are just plain cool, and supposedly shoot fantastic. I plan on just using this as a range gun, maybe a HD pistol if it proves to be reliable, which it should. I have been experimenting with compatibility and have posted a bit on someone else's topic, but I decided I would create my own. My preliminary research showed that these pistols are basically the same internally as older Tanfoglio witness pistols all except for the grips, and the hammer strut/spring which are the longer CZ design. So far I have successfully converted it from SA as it was purchased, and designated by the Israeli police force, to DA/SA. I was able to swap out the stock safety and add in the disconnector I had lying around from my Stock 2. It does function, but the hammer does not come all the way back in DA so a live fire test at the range will verify if it works acceptably or if it will need some more experimentation. The next thing I want to try, is to find a replacement safety lever, with a thumb ledge that is parallel to the barrel as all my other Tanfoglios are. I saw some 941s posted on GB that had these type of safeties so I know it is possible. I don't like the upward angled safety. These guns use the little tombstone shaped steel plate that nests into a pocket in the frame. It sounds like it MAY be compatible with very old Tanfoglio safeties, or possibly the polymer Tanfoglios even manufactured today. I am still trying to verify this and have not yet ordered any parts. If anyone can verify any of my suspicions about these safeties, please post here.
  18. I did find this which seems like my best bet yet. Would you be able to measure the width of your frame where the safety crosses through? https://eaacorp.com/store/shop-full-width/parts/safety/polymer-ambi-safety-102085/
  19. I'd be very surprised if the split type would work. I was expecting a pinned right side safety. Or, honestly I don't even need ambi, just a left side safety would be fine for me. They key is the inside surface of the left hand safety paddle. Does it have the stubby little cylinder for the detent plate like in the photos above?
  20. I'm looking for a complete safety lever. But now I wonder of the omega safety could work? Definitely not what is shown in my photos tough...
  21. I ride the safety on almost all my guns, so I would like to have the functional safety there with a ledge I can rest my thumb on. I also would prefer to not cut on any of the original parts in case I want to put it all back to stock one day. It's sort of both a fun collector item for me, but also a range toy, maybe HD gun. This is what the Jericho 941 Safety looks like. My previous pictures prove it is possible, just have to figure out which part...
  22. I know I'm bringing this back from the dead, but did you by chance find these parts, or a complete replacement safety? I just picked up a old surplus Jericho 941, and I want to swap out the safety to something where the tab is parallel with the barrel instead of angled up, it throws off my grip. I have found that the safety looks in my gun looks just like the one in your photo with the little spring and steel tab/detent thingy. I know it is possible because I noticed these Jericho 941's for sale on GB...
  23. Its becoming apparent that no one really cares about this, but I don't care, LOL. I realized that once changing over to the larger spring either actual Beretta or in my case Tanfoglio (EAA) there is no reason not to just use the plain old steel option guide rod for the 92. I picked up a cheap one for $10 off eBay, and reduced the head diameter so it would fit into the 92FSR frame. I found that the end still stuck out the end of the slide a little more than I liked so I shortened it from the head end to maintain the black finish on the end and to increase the the effective locked breech spring length, it took the removal of about 1mm of thickness. I also ended up trimming off 1.5 coils from the Tanfoglio (EAA) spring I mentioned above and the gun seems to lock back on empty reliably with the CCI Quiet-22 Semi-Auto ammo I've been using, its pretty weak stuff. It fits perfect, cycles great, adds a little weight, and I'm happy. I'll probably keep it like this going foreword.
  24. Another interesting development, I've found that an Wolf 8 lb recoil spring from a Tanfoglio / EAA Stock II (Full Size, not long slide) fits and cycles very similarly to the original one. It gives the same occasional failure to lock back but never has FTE's with the relatively weak CCI Quiet SA ammo I'm using, it may also break in... The cut down because of the thick wire, and reduced number of coils had a very steep tension curve, but this new 8 lb one, is much more linear. I do disclose that other recoil springs from the same gun, with higher weight ratings, fit too tightly on the guide rod, so I can't make any guarantees...
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